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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #1  
Vinford's Avatar
Vinford
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Buncha stuff............

So i have a few questions , mostly dash related.

My dash lights dont work so I started trying to trace them down to see why they didnt?

I dont seem to have any power at the fuse box for them?

All fuses have power to them except one.

The ignition didnt seem right so I thought maybe that was doing it.
I had several extra ignitions so I took the one out of the truck.

Its way bigger than the ones I have , more plugs ect.
I know my spares came out of 70's trucks as I took them out myself.
(see picture for diffrence)
Why?

In my search for a AM FM radio I found a nice horn pad , a radio mount bracket and a dome light.

The guy says the dome lights out of a 79 , whats your opinion?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 10:10 PM
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I'm sure Number Dummy will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe there were three different ignition switches used from '73 to '79.

The dome light may have come out of a '79, but I've never seen one like it. Looks more like an early '90s type.

Horn pad should fit your wheel. Looks like it came off a mid-'80s. It doesn't have the same trim around it my '79 has, at least.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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USArmyTaterness
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I agree with Voca the dome light looks just like the one in my 93 and it is completely bone stock nothing new or added except my rifle rack.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 07:18 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Vinford
The ignition didnt seem right so I thought maybe that was doing it. I had several extra ignitions so I took the one out of the truck.

It's way bigger than the ones I have, more plugs ect. I know my spares came out of 70's trucks as I took them out myself.
1968/79: There are THREE different ignition switches, see below.

In my search for a AM FM radio I found a nice horn pad , a radio mount bracket and a dome light.

The guy says the dome lights out of a 79, whats your opinion?
It's from a 1979 all right, in fact...dozens of them...but it wasn't available in F100/350's until 1980.
E1AZ-13776-A (replaced D9AZ-13776-B) .. Dome/Map Lamp Combination ~ Includes map lamp switches.

This was standard equipment on some, included in a optional convience light package on others.

1979 FoMoCo Passenger Cars & Bronco // 1980/89 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline / 1980/89 misc FoMoCo Passenger Cars. I didn't look after 1989.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D1AZ-11572-C (replaced C8AZ-11572-A).. Ignition Switch Kit ~ Includes pigtailed wire harness/plug (Motorcraft SW-1054).

This is the service part replacement switch for the POS C8AZ-11572-A switch that shorted out and caught FIRE!

Applications: 1968/69 FoMoCo Passenger Cars / 1968/69 F100/750 / 1970 F100/750 before serial number G90,001.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DOTZ-11572-A .. Ignition Switch (Motorcraft SW-944).

1970 F100/750 from serial number G90,001 / 1971/72 F100/750 / 1973/77 F100/880 / 1978/79 F600/880.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D8TZ-11572-A .. Ignition Switch (Motorcraft SW-1494).

Applications: 1978/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline.

You think Ford used the same parts for years? Think again, cuz this only applies to lug nuts.

Ford has more parts that are specific to before/from certain serial numbers, specific to before/from certain productions dates than any other automaker.

And, then there's this PITA: FoMoCo is in-famous for replacing/updating 10's of 1,000's of part numbers EVERY YEAR!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 07:32 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Vinford
My dash lights dont work so I started trying to trace them down to see why they didnt?

I dont seem to have any power at the fuse box for them?
Power for the dash lights comes from the rheostat in the headlight switch. It runs to one side of a 3-amp fuse in the box through a BLUE with RED stripe wire. The other side of the fuse leaves the box and branches out to the dash through the same color wiring.

Most dash light problems are caused by a bad headlight switch, corroded or open-circuit rheostat, or blown fuse. Pull the headlight switch **** out to one of the two stops (to at least turn the parking lights on), and rotate the headlight switch **** all the way counter-clockwise so that it clicks into place, and your dome light comes on. Check the power at the 3-A dash light fuse in the fuse box. Note the following:

1) If you have power on neither side of the fuse, the headlight switch is bad.
2) If you have power on only one side of the fuse, the fuse is bad.
3) If you have power on both sides of the fuse, yet the dash does not illuminate, the problem is downstream (burnt out bulbs, bad cluster, loose connection).

That sums up the entire operation; anything you read that tells you differently is incorrect.

Originally Posted by Vinford
The ignition didnt seem right so I thought maybe that was doing it.
What do you mean by "ignition" - the switch? Neither the ignition switch nor the ignition system itself have anything to do with the dash light circuit. The dash lights operate independent of the key or state of the engine. They are solely based on the headlight switch, as I described above. Don't put any more effort into figuring out what ignition switch to use because it has nothing to do with your dash light problem.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #6  
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scott79
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From: Bloomington, IN
Dome light

Vinford, I have the same dome/map light in a couple of my 79 Bronco's that are completely original, so it must be correct for the year. But I have never seen them in anything other than a Bronco.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #7  
Vinford's Avatar
Vinford
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From: Williams Lake B.C.
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Originally Posted by fmc400
Power for the dash lights comes from the rheostat in the headlight switch. It runs to one side of a 3-amp fuse in the box through a BLUE with RED stripe wire. The other side of the fuse leaves the box and branches out to the dash through the same color wiring.

Most dash light problems are caused by a bad headlight switch, corroded or open-circuit rheostat, or blown fuse. Pull the headlight switch **** out to one of the two stops (to at least turn the parking lights on), and rotate the headlight switch **** all the way counter-clockwise so that it clicks into place, and your dome light comes on. Check the power at the 3-A dash light fuse in the fuse box. Note the following:

1) If you have power on neither side of the fuse, the headlight switch is bad.
2) If you have power on only one side of the fuse, the fuse is bad.
3) If you have power on both sides of the fuse, yet the dash does not illuminate, the problem is downstream (burnt out bulbs, bad cluster, loose connection).

That sums up the entire operation; anything you read that tells you differently is incorrect.



What do you mean by "ignition" - the switch? Neither the ignition switch nor the ignition system itself have anything to do with the dash light circuit. The dash lights operate independent of the key or state of the engine. They are solely based on the headlight switch, as I described above. Don't put any more effort into figuring out what ignition switch to use because it has nothing to do with your dash light problem.

Thanks that pretty clear ill check out my switch.
I have no power either side of fuse.
 
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