front wheel hub assembly
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
front wheel hub assembly
2001 Ford F350 4x4 single rear wheel needs front wheel bearings replaced. I have been told that these trucks have sealed bearing in the front hub assemble ant that I have to buy the whole hub. Is that true and if so where is the best place to get hubs. Thanks for the help
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 609
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I have purchased 2 units for my 2001 SD from rockauto.com. Best total prices I can find, even with shipping costs. I bought Timkin brand with ABS sensor. The bearing units are not designed to be serviced, no matter who makes them.
I recommend buying the ones with the ABS sensor even if you don't have ABS. You can then remove the sensor and grease the bearing. If you do, there is a fitting you can buy from Riff Raff Diesel: Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting that will let you service these non-serviceable bearings. I bought two of these fittings, even though they are only temporary use for me. I put them in, grease the bearings and take the fittings out.
The wheel studs are changeable, so if the ones on your truck are still useable, you can get the lesser cost bearing unit. That is what I did.
I recommend buying the ones with the ABS sensor even if you don't have ABS. You can then remove the sensor and grease the bearing. If you do, there is a fitting you can buy from Riff Raff Diesel: Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting that will let you service these non-serviceable bearings. I bought two of these fittings, even though they are only temporary use for me. I put them in, grease the bearings and take the fittings out.
The wheel studs are changeable, so if the ones on your truck are still useable, you can get the lesser cost bearing unit. That is what I did.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
I bought moog units that came with studs and the new Yellow O ring. Probably not the best move on my part but Im trusting its still a quality part.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 82
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From: oklahoma
Thanks for all the info. Will look into getting timkin parts and doing the job myself instead of going to stealers hip. You guys on this website are great. I have saved a lot of money using info from here
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Also went with Timken from autozone at $184 a piece. 3 yr warranty. They aren't bad at all to replace. And they even came with new bolt studs where every other brand I have bought you had to swap them over from the old hub. Easy change. I say 30 min per side with out air tools. Or maybe I have replaced these way to many times. Count on a hour per side for the first time.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 203
Likes: 1
From: Delaware
Also went with Timken from autozone at $184 a piece. 3 yr warranty. They aren't bad at all to replace. And they even came with new bolt studs where every other brand I have bought you had to swap them over from the old hub. Easy change. I say 30 min per side with out air tools. Or maybe I have replaced these way to many times. Count on a hour per side for the first time.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Nope. Remove the wheel, brakes, and front locking hubs. Snap ring and thrust washers behind locking hub and the 4 nuts behind where the front ujoints is and you are good to go. Should pull right out.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 609
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No. Bolts on the back of the bearing next to the axle shaft are what keeps the bearing attached, not friction.
- remove brake cylinder and disc
- take the 4x4 hub off,
- remove snap ring and two other spacers (remember how they are positioned)
- remove ABS sensor (if you have one)
- remove 4 nuts next to the axle shaft
- pull bearing off