All you need to pull a 16,000 lb trailer through the mountains is an exhaust brake, transmission cooler, a mild tow tune and some gauges. My trailer weighs 16,480 lbs and I have towed it through some serious mountains with my F-250 for years. Stock intake, exhaust, injectors, turbo etc.

The factory EBPV works great as an exhaust brake. The Banks Brake is another choice if you feel like spending some money. The 6.0 transmission cooler or something like a Tru Cool stacked plate cooler is a must for towing that heavy. Last I checked (about a year ago...), PHP was the only tuner who offered tow tunes for trailers in excess of 16,000 lbs....that is who I am using for tunes and they work great. No EGT or turbo surge issues and plenty of power. You may consider 20 hp, 40hp and 60hp tow tunes for a variety of conditions. 60hp will do well 80% of the time while the 20 & 40 settings will work in the mountains with no drama.

For gauges a good set up might be a triple pod a-pillar system with EGT, engine coolant temp and an Aeroforce Interceptor Scangauge with the fuel pressure accessory. This will allow you to use the Aeroforce to monitor trans temp, boost, fuel pressure exhaust back pressure and a host of other parameters. Your stock exhaust springs will be fine with an exhaust brake so long as you keep below 45 psi of back pressure (about 60 psi as read via PCM).

If you have some cash to spend, then a quality transmission rebuild will make a huge difference in how your truck tows. BTS and John Woods are two very respectable choices. If you have a local shop who specializes in diesel trucks then that is another option or of course you can build it yourself if you have the ambition. The trans in my SRW truck is a local build with the Transgo Tugger Overhaul kit, upgraded Coast Clutch drum (for engine braking) and a custom TC (also built locally). I have about 160,000 miles on the rebuild trans with no issues, trans fluid analysis indicates the unit is in perfect health even after all those miles of hard towing.

Welcome to FTE.

 

Greg, question on the back pressure. Is that a matter of putting an additional "boost" gauge on to monitor that? Plug into the downpipe? Or is there a direct correlation between boost?
Hope this isn't too much of a hijack.

 

Hello from another La boy here. It'll always be home no matter where I pay bills. Don't let'em dismiss the "grades" in La. We just call'em Mississippi River Bridges!



How about some examples/sources for these OBDII gauges. While I'd love an AutoEngenuity, close to $400 is a bit steep.

 

There are Back Pressure gauges available that are very similar to a boost gauge except they use a metal tube and diaphragm (plastic/vinyl would likely melt). The tube is plumbed directly into the exhaust system pre-valve. My 450 has a Banks Brake so the Power Elbow section is already drilled and tapped for a fitting so that is where I measure back pressure.

Alternatively, one could simply use the PCM reading from the factory back pressure sensor but keep in mind that value also includes barometric pressure so you have to do a little math in your head depending on what your altitude is. There is a gigantic difference between back pressure readings taken pre turbo vs post turbo unless the exhaust brake is closed....then the back pressure readings are nearly identical (except for the fact that the PCM reading includes Baro). As far as I know, there isn't a practical way to determine actual back pressure from a boost reading. Boost is a measurement of pressure pre piston. Back pressure for the PCM is a measurement of pressure post piston but pre turbo. There is virtually no back pressure post turbo unless the exhaust brake is closed.

Here is a photo of the back pressure gauge that I have installed in one of my trucks. It's kind of a waste of a gauge spot because it only is useful when the exhaust brake is activated. I've had some gigantic loads on the downhill side of some mountains and back pressure readings have rarely (if ever) approached dangerous levels. People fail to consider that exhaust valves have pressure on both sides, cylinder pressure and exhaust manifold pressure. The stock valve spring pressure is adequate for exhaust brake use. If I had to do it all over again, I'd get the Aeroforce Scangauge and simply toggle to exhaust back pressure while using the brake (which isn't really that often). Some Dodge guys leave their exhaust brake active all the time, even when unloaded so they may be better off with a dedicated analog gauge, but the OP doesn't really have that same need.

 

Thanks Greg. Good explaination.

 

[quote=Shake-N-Bake;12715653]
For gauges a good set up might be a triple pod a-pillar system with EGT, engine coolant temp and an Aeroforce Interceptor Scangauge with the fuel pressure accessory. This will allow you to use the Aeroforce to monitor trans temp, boost, fuel pressure exhaust back pressure and a host of other parameters. Your stock exhaust springs will be fine with an exhaust brake so long as you keep below 45 psi of back pressure (about 60 psi as read via PCM).

Ok so your saying that the aero gauge would read the tranny temp through the OBD port and there is no need for a dedicated gauge for tranny temp, and many other parameters. IF this is the case, are the readings accurate? The mutli function gauges are really new to me and I wasn't sure if they were worth the investment. I'm really at a cross roads with these gauges. I was leaning toward a quad pillar with tranny, EGT left and right ,pyrometer. IF i was unable to find a dual face gauge for the EGT's and if successful on the dual face then adding fuel pressure or coolant temp. See my dilemma Bro. (IGNORANCE is brutal sometimes) LOL

 

Oh and yes i thought about the tranny rebuild but i just replaced it with new factory replacement, it only has about 30,000 miles on it so I figure i'll baby it for awhile. Cheaper that way for now.

 

The internal trans temp sensor is in the ideal location and most accurate option. It is read via the ODBII port.

ISSPRO offers a dual probe EGT gauge but the temps max out at 1300 (If I remember correctly...). Honestly, a single pyro is going to be fine because you won't need a gauge to know when there is a problem with one bank. In my opinion, the gauge priority while towing is 1.Trans Temp, 2.EGT, 3.Coolant temp, 4. Fuel Pressure, 5.Boost, 6. EBP (if using an exhaust brake)

If your truck is going to be towing that much weight on a very regular and frequent basis then you may consider a gear change. 4.30 gears will turn an otherwise stock engine into a towing beast while still allowing for reasonable highway speeds.

 

10-4. Totally understand.

 

4.30 now that's where i'm going next! Maybe on the next Job down the road, Gotta send some $ home to the misses if know what i mean, LOL. The tow guy I've been looking for, nothing against the other guys. Every bodies Info has been a great help. I wish I would have been here sooner. I'll update after the first mods are done
Thanks
Randall

 

For multi function gauges give this link a look. They are real gauges, not digital scrolling, though.

Westach