Originally Posted by Y2KW57

In my opinion, a cross axis ball joint allows for more articulation and flexibility within the allowable range of motion, and more rigidity and resistance to sway when reaching the limit of the allowable range of motion... than a solid urethane bushing.

The problem with the original production cross axis ball joints appears to have been a failure of the seal membrane. The later replacement and service part sway bar end links with the cross axis ball joints appear to have a more durable sealing membrane, that remains in tact for longer than OEM.

The cap seals of my replacement Ford service part sway bar end links have already lasted longer than the original seals of the OEM parts they replaced. If anyone considering new sway bar end links has the patience to trust that Ford got it right the second time around, or that MevoTech and other currently available sway bar end links with cross axis ball joints have seals that will go the distance... I think the ride and handling will be more comfortable and controlled with articulating joints over bare bushings.

Originally Posted by Y2KW57

A few installation details for the right (passenger/curb) side:







The starter being in the way took me by surprise. It is possible to resolve this interference issue much more expediently than shown above... by simply reversing the bolt direction... ie by threading the bolt through the frame first, such that the bolt head is outside the frame web, and the bolt threads are pointing toward the starter.

For whatever reason, Ford did not install the bolt that way, so I didn't either. That meant the pillow block had to be temporarily unbolted in order to replicate the way Ford originally installs the bolt. Also, if using the Ford factory OE link, the top bolt comes pre-pressed into the bushing. It is not known if the force to press or brute force hammer the pre installed bolt out of the bushing is equal to the force that would unseat the bushing itself from the end link eyelet.

I did not want to risk unseating the bushing in side the eyelet, because the bore diameter of the eyelet is continuous, with no stop or step inside. That is one reason why the photograph of the eyelet circle without a bushing is posted above... to illustrate smooth bore with no steps or stops. When pressing in a SACHS replacement bushing that does not have a two tier diameter like the simpler urethane aftermarket options have, it might be important to know when the bushing is pressed in enough, but without a clearance calibrated jig fixture, how would one know?

This issue is likely one of the reasons that Ford, Moog, Raybestos, and Mevotech sells the entire endlink with bushings pre pressed into place. Two step urethane inserts are self calibrating... ie, shove them in until the second step is flush with the edge of the eyelet ring. The more sophisticated greased ball joint type of bushings, such as the OEM versions from SACHS, are continuous diameter with no step.

I post this seemingly obvious and arcane detail because there was a gap in my understanding about this subject when I researched other's experiences replacing the bushings. I came to realize that different people were talking about different bushings, mostly aftermarket options. It seemed useful to put up some clarity for those considering OEM options.

Up next, in a day or so, will be pics of the driver's side installation, as well as the addition and modification of more bushing heatshields.