Carburetor help
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 197
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From: Chino California
Carburetor help
Im trying to rebuild the carb in my 1975 F100 4.9L 6cyl
Got the autozone kit, and it doesnt fit.
Turns out my carb is a 7360 S
And I cant figure out what kit I need. Im guessing the carb is newer/older than my truck, but, google isnt much help. Ideas?
Got the autozone kit, and it doesnt fit.
Turns out my carb is a 7360 S
And I cant figure out what kit I need. Im guessing the carb is newer/older than my truck, but, google isnt much help. Ideas?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Kansas
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
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From: Exmore, VA
FYI, 7360S is the Carter number. Back in the day of real parts people the carburetor kit catalog (book not computer) had a cross reference from manufacturer's number to kits. I know AutoZone can do it, just most of their parts monkeys don't know the secret. If your AutoZone has a commercial sales in the back, they are better at this and have greater resources.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Chino California
So, more problems with the puzzle.
My carb had this mystery riser thing, with a large vacuum port in it (maybe for EGR?) That goes nowhere, Im guessing causing a large vacuum leak.
The intake manifold has a hold in it for some reason too, (EGR?) which is left going nowhere also. (another vacuum leak?)
I have a spare engine, that doesnt have this hole:
Should I swap the intake manifold, and plug up the riser plate?
It does!
But, I would rather get it at autozone as they are down the street, and I'm on my 5th point ($20!)
understood. They don't have one though 
My carb had this mystery riser thing, with a large vacuum port in it (maybe for EGR?) That goes nowhere, Im guessing causing a large vacuum leak.
The intake manifold has a hold in it for some reason too, (EGR?) which is left going nowhere also. (another vacuum leak?)
I have a spare engine, that doesnt have this hole:
Should I swap the intake manifold, and plug up the riser plate?
But, I would rather get it at autozone as they are down the street, and I'm on my 5th point ($20!)
FYI, 7360S is the Carter number. Back in the day of real parts people the carburetor kit catalog (book not computer) had a cross reference from manufacturer's number to kits. I know AutoZone can do it, just most of their parts monkeys don't know the secret. If your AutoZone has a commercial sales in the back, they are better at this and have greater resources.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Ok, the big hose nipple in picture 1 is probably for the Thermactor system air feed to the exhaust. Depending on whether you will have to pass California smog with this truck you may need to find all the pieces for it. If the big tube only goes into the riser, not down into the exhaust portion it would have been the air gulp valve. It's purpose was to lean the mixture on deceleration to prevent muffler backfire.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 197
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From: Chino California
Ok, the big hose nipple in picture 1 is probably for the Thermactor system air feed to the exhaust. Depending on whether you will have to pass California smog with this truck you may need to find all the pieces for it. If the big tube only goes into the riser, not down into the exhaust portion it would have been the air gulp valve. It's purpose was to lean the mixture on deceleration to prevent muffler backfire.
Big tube only enters the riser. Im guessing the riser is from the truck originally, and the engine is from something newer that had all the smog stuff on it. But just a guess.
What should I do?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
You can carefully tap the tube and put a pipe plug in it. Be sure you get the correct gasket for underneath, it looks like you had a bit of an exhaust leak. The last year for the carbureted 6 cyl. was 1986, after that it went to EFI.
Go back to AutoZone, see if someone knows how to do a carburetor number to kit cross reference. Use the number on the carburetor to find the right kit.
Go back to AutoZone, see if someone knows how to do a carburetor number to kit cross reference. Use the number on the carburetor to find the right kit.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
That spacer is not an egr spacer. That is a spacer with the vacuum port for the PCV valve ( valve that goes into the top of the valve cover ) . You want to hook that up if it's not already hooked up. 
Don't worry about the hole in the manifold. The carb spacer blocks that off. It's from the exhaust so there won't be any vacuum leaks from it. Just install new gaskets on both sides of the spacer and you are good to go.
Don't worry about the hole in the manifold. The carb spacer blocks that off. It's from the exhaust so there won't be any vacuum leaks from it.
Just install new gaskets on both sides of the spacer and you are good to go.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 197
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From: Chino California
You can carefully tap the tube and put a pipe plug in it. Be sure you get the correct gasket for underneath, it looks like you had a bit of an exhaust leak. The last year for the carbureted 6 cyl. was 1986, after that it went to EFI.
Go back to AutoZone, see if someone knows how to do a carburetor number to kit cross reference. Use the number on the carburetor to find the right kit.
Go back to AutoZone, see if someone knows how to do a carburetor number to kit cross reference. Use the number on the carburetor to find the right kit.
That spacer is not an egr spacer. That is a spacer with the vacuum port for the PCV valve ( valve that goes into the top of the valve cover ) . You want to hook that up if it's not already hooked up.
Don't worry about the hole in the manifold. The carb spacer blocks that off. It's from the exhaust so there won't be any vacuum leaks from it. Just install new gaskets on both sides of the spacer and you are good to go.
Don't worry about the hole in the manifold. The carb spacer blocks that off. It's from the exhaust so there won't be any vacuum leaks from it.
Just install new gaskets on both sides of the spacer and you are good to go.
Maybe I should pull that apart, and throw this plug in it?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Ok, try a 1980 with 300 engine, Standard number 1550. I wasn't able to find a GP Sorensen number for it, that is AutoZone's brand. Maybe with this they can cross it over. It looks like it may be 96-550. Good luck!
Last edited by 85lebaront2; Jan 4, 2013 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Additional information added.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Yea pull that block and install a pipe plug ( make sure to use some kind of sealer on the plug. though ) . That would be much simpler then trying to plug that spacer.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Chino California
You said the spacer pipe leads to the PCV.
But, I have a line going to the PCV already.
So what should I do? I just want it to be correct as possible.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
What do you think is easier? You've got two spots in your intake that already have threaded holes.
You can put a rubber cap over your spacer nipple. But they can leak or crack and then you have a massive vacuum leak. Put the plug/s in the manifold itself and run a hose from your PCV to your spacer. Problem fixed.
There are only two things that take that size vacuum hose on a truck that age. The PCV or a Brake booster vacuum hose. If you have power brakes but there is no hose going to the booster, then that's where it goes to. If you don't have power brakes then it goes to the PCV valve.
If you don't want to hook it up there. Find a plain spacer with no vacuum nipple or make your own. Buy a chunk of aluminum the right size and thickness. Mark it all out with your current spacer. Cut it out and drill the 3 holes..
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
PCV: Valve cover has two holes, oil cap in rear. Front: Smog valve (6A666) fits into rubber grommet (6A892) that twists into cover.
Molded hose (6A664) routes from valve to metal tube (6758) that threads into manifold.
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T/E (Thermactor Emission-smog pump): Carb spacer (9A589) has a threaded hole, check valve (9A487) threads in. Molded hose routes from this check valve to an inline check valve (9A487).
Molded hose routes from this check valve to elbow on air cleaner.
OP lives in Chino, 15 or so miles east of Hacienda Heights. If OP wants to swing by and take a look-see in my parts catalogs, that's OK by me.