Carburetor help
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,842
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
I googled "Carter 7360S" .... found this page:
Carburetor Info Page
Kit # KT-5386D .... $22.22 today:
KT-5386D - Carburetors Unlimited
Not sure about AutoZone, but at Advance we do have a cross reference tab on the computor to cross numbers in the system and we have paper catalogs as well. Sometiomes we have to go second source to order.
Just a couple weeks ago I got a kit for a 1950 Ford F-1 with straight six, had the kit in hand that afternoon, delivered before 5pm.
Carburetor Info Page
Kit # KT-5386D .... $22.22 today:
KT-5386D - Carburetors Unlimited
Not sure about AutoZone, but at Advance we do have a cross reference tab on the computor to cross numbers in the system and we have paper catalogs as well. Sometiomes we have to go second source to order.
Just a couple weeks ago I got a kit for a 1950 Ford F-1 with straight six, had the kit in hand that afternoon, delivered before 5pm.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,842
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
I just looked back to get some info .... been a pair of snakes they'ld have bitten me .....
I don't work again until Wednesday but we are having a "late Christmas Party" for the store after closing tomorrow evening (Sunday, 010613) , wife's fixed a bunch of stuff, I'll print out the numbers and see what I can do then and post back.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
From: Southern Ohio
Go to Napa or Oreilys auto parts and bring your carb. They have the carb books and they can get you the correct carb kit. Ive rebuilt a few 1bbl carbs from 66-85 and all the kits are pretty much the same with minor variations. But if you have the float level set incorrectly it wont run right.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Indy
my 79 has a differant spacer. but the large port is to the brake booster.
if you have a extra one plug it like they were saying.
it will run like cra if its left open. and wat lean.
if you dont have a tap take some hose that fits it.
cut it long enough to fit the nipple the find a bolt to put in the other end of the hose.
i use hose and bolts instead of those caps.
they take much longer to dry rot and leak
if you have a extra one plug it like they were saying.
it will run like cra if its left open. and wat lean.
if you dont have a tap take some hose that fits it.
cut it long enough to fit the nipple the find a bolt to put in the other end of the hose.
i use hose and bolts instead of those caps.
they take much longer to dry rot and leak
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,842
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Looks to me like G P Sorenson kit #96-186C handles your Carter 7360s YFA 1 bbl carb. Auto Zone as well as Advance handles them. About $20.99.
Did you realize that the Carter YF and YFA 1 bbl carbs were used by many makes in many apps from 1950-1986 .... that's a long run!
I did check and found this kit is an exact kit for a 1970 F100 300-6 as well as a '77 and a '78 F150 with 300-6 engines which nicely bracket you.
I guess I should check and see if it was maybe the kit I delivered for that '50 F-1 a few weeks ago?
Jeep Carburetor Tips on The CJ3B Page
Did you realize that the Carter YF and YFA 1 bbl carbs were used by many makes in many apps from 1950-1986 .... that's a long run!
I did check and found this kit is an exact kit for a 1970 F100 300-6 as well as a '77 and a '78 F150 with 300-6 engines which nicely bracket you.
I guess I should check and see if it was maybe the kit I delivered for that '50 F-1 a few weeks ago?
Jeep Carburetor Tips on The CJ3B Page
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Chino California
Well, got the recommended autozone kit. Seemed to fit fine.
I wasn't going for a full rebuild, I just Needed the manifold gasket, base gasket, and bowl gasket. (it was leaking out the top pretty bad) Seeing as how it all worked before, I figured why attempt a rebuild and screw it up?
Discovered my float was stuck open too, so I replaced the float and seat while I was in there.
Well I screwed it up. Turns out its also leaking from the shaft that pushes the accelerator pump, and out of the bowl vent.
It could have already been leaking from the shaft, but I wouldnt have noticed with the bowl leak.
Anywho:
Ideas on how to fix this?
I wasn't going for a full rebuild, I just Needed the manifold gasket, base gasket, and bowl gasket. (it was leaking out the top pretty bad) Seeing as how it all worked before, I figured why attempt a rebuild and screw it up?
Discovered my float was stuck open too, so I replaced the float and seat while I was in there.
Well I screwed it up. Turns out its also leaking from the shaft that pushes the accelerator pump, and out of the bowl vent.
It could have already been leaking from the shaft, but I wouldnt have noticed with the bowl leak.
Anywho:
Ideas on how to fix this?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
A few questions, first, what type of float do you have, metal or plastic? Second, when yo installed the float pin (the one it pivots on) which way did you put the short end? Third, when you put the needle and seat in, was there a screen on the old one, did you put the spring and short brass pin inside the needle correctly?
What it sounds like is your carburetor is flooding. I don't see a filter in your inlet line, that could be a cause. Also, ditch the VW size air cleaner for a proper one.
What it sounds like is your carburetor is flooding. I don't see a filter in your inlet line, that could be a cause. Also, ditch the VW size air cleaner for a proper one.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Chino California
A few questions, first, what type of float do you have, metal or plastic? Second, when yo installed the float pin (the one it pivots on) which way did you put the short end? Third, when you put the needle and seat in, was there a screen on the old one, did you put the spring and short brass pin inside the needle correctly?
What it sounds like is your carburetor is flooding. I don't see a filter in your inlet line, that could be a cause. Also, ditch the VW size air cleaner for a proper one.
What it sounds like is your carburetor is flooding. I don't see a filter in your inlet line, that could be a cause. Also, ditch the VW size air cleaner for a proper one.
The pin was flattened on one side. Only one way to install it. (Maybe I screw that up now that I think about it)
No screen- Yes I got the spring inside the float, with the pin.
And there is an inline filter, but its over by the pump.
Actually, before the pump. Maybe Ill change it to after the pump though...
Anywho, Weed-Whacker filter will have to stay for now, until I find the original one.
Prior owner said it wouldn't run with the stock filter, he put that thing on, and it fired right up. (?)
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Chino California
Is that the only way it would flood out?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
No, a small piece of trash in the needle and seat, a bad float, a bad (it can happen) needle and seat, float bent to the side and rubbing on the bowl, improper float setting. Any of these can cause it to flood.
You can try clamping off the fuel inlet hose and start the truck, run it until it runs out of gas, then unclamp the line and try it again. If it was a small piece of trash (the ethanol 10% in the fuel will damage the hoses) it may just run fine after that.
Sorry for the delay, I am 3 hours ahead of you.
You can try clamping off the fuel inlet hose and start the truck, run it until it runs out of gas, then unclamp the line and try it again. If it was a small piece of trash (the ethanol 10% in the fuel will damage the hoses) it may just run fine after that.
Sorry for the delay, I am 3 hours ahead of you.