Well finally have some of the axle on the F250.

All I need now are some sway bar brackets. Does anyone know where to get a pair of sway bar brackets or at least the dimensions so I can have a set fabricated?


Still working on the 4WD shaft and brackets. Need a rubber washer fron behind the yoke on the transfer case. One I have is all chewed up.


Here is another issue. Seems all you can adjust is toe for alignment.
The shop I went to has a computer alignment system ... There is no choice for a 1997 F250 crew with a solid axle.

I explained the DANA 60 is out of a 94 F350.

Selected a 1999 F250 with a solid axle and the truck has a steering wobble around a curve with bumps or over a set of bumps at any speed (20 MPH to 50 MPH).

Then picked a 87-97 F350 and the same steering wobble Also the adjustment was the same.

So we went back to the original "misalignment" prior to the "computerized" alignment and the steering wobble was much less ... but still occuring.

Why is there a wobble? Is the toe off that much?

Is it because there is no sway bar? No steering stabilizer?

I have new shocks, brakers, rotors& pads , balanced tires, checked all outer bearings and packed with new grease.

 

a stabilizer might not be a bad idea.my 350 does not have one though.I do have a sway bar.WHAT measurements do you need,I would be glad to help out on that!
how much toe in are they putting in it? a 1/16 in should drive fine. since you say toe only adj i take it the axle is a king pin unit? my 96 has upper camber bushings that can be swapped AND rotated to obtain proper alignment.

 

When a 1/16 inch is stated what does that measurement mean? How is the wheel positioned and is it off the ground?

The "alignment" shop uses reflectors attached to each 4 rims and then adjusts the toe with the front off the ground and adjusts in degrees.

 

with a tape measure and the truck on the ground measure between the tires at the front and rear. the front should be 1/16 less than the rear. the tape is not exact but I have use it and then rechecked on a machine and been in the "green". See where they have it right now. That may give an idea of how it is aligned.

 

Banks sells the sway bar brackets for the frame.

Your alignment shop SUCKS. there are caster/camber slugs to adjust both

Steering stabilizers are not needed on these trucks. If you "need" one, there are other problems like worn track bar bushings or caster is out

 

Wobble at any speed sounds like too much caster. I know it's a solid axle but if the bottom ball joint is further to the rear...

 

Called banks and sent to several people. They know of no sway bar brackets.

Do you know a part number? Or a person/business I can call and get a set?

 

Let me google that for you

 

LMAOROTF

How do you do that Google typing in trick? Oh wait I will Google it!

 

Thank for the info ! Banks 48899 PN unfortunately the links on the sway bar bolt on the bottom and not on the side like I have found every where ! Think maybe use some square tubing?

 

Let me google that for you

i couldn't resist.

 

Hey man, I was reading the post about the Dana 60 swap and saw you had some pretty good input. I also saw you said that you have two?? I am located about 45 west of Philadelphia. If you have these still I would love to hear more. I bought my first diesel about 7 months ago... 1996 f250 7.3 CrewCab short bed. It's chipped, stage 2 clutch, 3in dp, and a pointless "cold air intake". I now have all the interior/dash out of it and almost done painting.... Exterior paint is next and I now want to look into performance/mechanical stuff on the truck. I went out and bought the biggest aftermarket air filter that autozone had because the one the guy had on there looked about the size for a gocart. I want to rig up a air box for it that will take up the front left corner(which means move the batter back)... I have an oil leak that I need to find where it is coming from. When I had a diesel mechanic look at it, he said he couldn't find where it was coming from and thinks it could be the rear main seal and would cost about $700 just to get down there and replace it. I feel pretty confident that my buddy and I could drop the trans and all down and get to that seal. But first I want to really get in there and clean up all the oil because I have a feeling it is leaking from somewhere higher... I posted on here and someone responded with the possibility of a cracked pedastoo? Being the reason for oil in coming from my exhaust and some smoke coming from the turbo. Because I kind of have the time right now to work on this and I have a car to drive, I am trying to really learn, and explore my truck. I've wanted one for so long and finally found this one pretty cheap, but knew I would at some point have to do this.

 

lol oops sorry for all that! I meant for that to go to diesel brad haha but looks like you all can read up on my project

 

Just above the valve covers are plate covers on each side. The are oil rings in there that wear out and the oil leaks out to the back rear of the engine onto the bell housing/ starter..

Another easy fix leak if the sensor on the fuel filter (fuel leak)