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I have a 1999 CCLB SRW with 3.73 gears. The truck is all stock with exception of a 4" Diamond Eye turbo back exhaust. The truck has 320k on the clock so far.
My question is when I am towing my 5th wheel and get into the hills the truck just doesn't seem to have the power it should. On the flats it will cruise 65 mph no problem but as soon as I come to a hill with any length to it I am down to 30 mph or so depending on the hill. My 5th wheel weighs around 10k. I have done alot of reading about putting in a valve body but I am not sure that would help with my problem. It seems that it would just firm up the shifting, the truck shifts fine so far.
Am I asking too much of the truck to tow a little faster up the hills or is there something I am missing here? Anyone have a good list of "tow friendly" mods I can do?
When you are towing in these situations are you getting any "SES" lights?
Depending on the grade and length, on a stock tuned truck, I would think you may be on par for what it is designed to do. It's tough to tell though without knowing the exact "hills".
Are these interstate hills? Can you approach them at highway speed and then speed just simply scrubs off? Are you floored as in cannot push it any further? Don't be afraid of the RPM's that's where these trucks shine out in the power.
If there was an issue the first things I would look into would be boost/exhaust(up-pipe) leaks, and fuel pressure under load.
Sounds like you are missing some power somewhere. Are you the original owner? With that many miles, having worn out injectors is not out of the question. How is your fuel mileage while towing? With only 10k lb trailer you should be around the 11 mpg range...
I am not getting any SES lights, most of the hills I am speaking of are interstate hills and I approach them at highway speeds but by the top of the hill I am doing 35-40 mph tops with the pedal all the way to the floor.
I am not the original owner, I bought the truck with around 290k on it. I was wondering about the injectors and I think I may be replacing them in the near future because of what sounds like an injector knocking. When I am towing I usually am able to get between 10 and 11 mpg. When I am empty and just driving the truck I get about 16.5 mpg running at 75 mph.
320k miles and low power? Simple problem. Your ol girl is tired. But it's a 7.3 so she's not done.
Probably a few boost leaks, injectors might be tired and some other weak components like IPR, fuel pump, fuel screens etc. basically I would give your truck a deep tune.
Ah... you're in Montana... where the grades are real.
The best you can do is make sure the truck is 100% operational. Flip the oil cap upside-down on the oil fill spout and see if it gently hovers there, while trying to slide off. If the cap pops up, grab your favorite beverage and report back to the forum.
If it gently slides off, look for soot anywhere near exhaust components under the hood. I'm not kidding, really look in there with a light, mirror, inspection camera, or whatever you have. Sooty? You're not alone there. You won't need the beverage for reporting back on that.
Do a search for "boost leak detector" and get the $5 worth of parts to build one (assuming you already have an air compressor). When checking for leaks, most people find them around the boots, but only because they don't check the seals on the intake plenums... (waaay down in the valley of the motor, where you can't see) that's where I found my leak.
When did you last replace your fuel and air filters? Do you use fuel additive? What kind of oil do you use? Are you computer savvy? Many who do well with computers buy AutoEnginuity [LINK] and can benefit from knowing what's going on in the truck. You don't need to know the truck... that's what we're here for.
On intial inspection I have noticed that my up pipes are all black and sooty, and as far as the oil cap goes it will sit there and eventually vibrate off. Cold Montana days don't allow for much inspection time.
I have the AE program and still in the learning process of it. Any certain tests I should run or items I should look at that might lead me to a problem?
On intial inspection I have noticed that my up pipes are all black and sooty,
Think, you've found your porblem, bud. ! of 2 ways to go about fixing it.
1) Buy bellowed up pipes from RIFFRAFF at the tune of $450+
2) get some FELPRO 8194 gaskets or "DP-TUNER" mentioned another donut gasket as well, for around 3 buks a pop.
With a leaky collector, its robbing you blind in power. With that many miles an her, it probably wouldnt be a bad investment in get'n the CAC boot kit also from RIFFRAFF.
With the turbo out, to gain access to the collector, may want to check the condition of the compressor wheel, to see if the turbo needs rebuilding..(can get kit from, you know you)....
If the funds allow I would invest in a set of gauges to monitor trans temp egt's and boost, If will help you in narrowing down problems. Towing up steep grades can lead to high EGT's and transmission issues if its overheated.
You may hook in a temp fuel psi gauge and try that run again. It could also be that the screens in the tank are plugging up and starving it for fuel. It would be much more noticeable with that weight on an incline.
If it's a fuel problem start HERE. This is Guzzle's in-tank mod. One of the steps is to eliminate the mixing chamber screens that can clog up and starve the engine of fuel.
Weak fuel pump can also cause fuel starvation.
Bellowed up-pipe install by Pocket is HERE. Permanet fix for leaking up-pipes that rob drive pressure and lower boost.
Can someone provide the best way to run a temporary fuel pressure gauge so it can be monitored on the road? I bought an analog gauge that would connect to the fuel bowl before I realized I need to see it in the cab. This may help jd1987 as well.
Can someone provide the best way to run a temporary fuel pressure gauge so it can be monitored on the road? I bought an analog gauge that would connect to the fuel bowl before I realized I need to see it in the cab. This may help jd1987 as well.
You could buy some cheap fuel line, and hose clamp it to the pipe of the fuel drain valve(then open it), then route that to the gauge where ever you might want to temporarily view it. That's the cheapest temporary setup I can think of.