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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

got a turbo kit today. prototype???

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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 03:59 PM
  #46  
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From: Munger
wopps didnt see that
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #47  
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new roadbump, won't start. I changed the plugs today with motorcrafts. I tried to start the truck and the relay made a loud buzzing sound and stayed on, eventually smoking before I turned it off. I replaced the relay with a ford stater relay, and the light comes on the dash, but the truck will not start. I crank it but no dice, not even a stutter. I have diesel vapor in the exhaust, so I know I'm getting fuel. the new relay could be bad? I can't be in two places at once to test it. the new relay makes no noise, whatsoever. I crank it till the oil on the starter starts to smoke, no dice. checked the fuses and all are good. I'm lost. advice??? I tried to pm some folks but their mailboxes are full I want to see if someone will talk me through this, it's faster that way.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #48  
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also, I had an issue with the throttle position sensor coming apart. I should mention that, when I was replacing the glow plugs and moving the wiring harness the tps came apart, the two pieces that glue together separated from one another. I just plugged it back in, don't know if that is part of the problem or not.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #49  
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From: Munger
its possible that that could be the problem
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 09:13 PM
  #50  
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TPS has nothing to do with running on an IDI. I'd check for any shorts in the glow-plug system and verify the fuel cut off solenoid is engaging when you turn the key on.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:28 PM
  #51  
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I'm getting fuel, lots of fuel vapor is present in the exhaust.
I pulled the controller, tested black wire to the two studs that connect to the bottom of the relay, no cont. between the black wire and studs, bad right? the black wire is gnd, and connected from the controller to mounting plate via a bolt, which in tern is connected to the block and the truck. tell me if I'm wrong here. I believe that there is a short inside the controller.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #52  
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I should tell you the glow connectors are good, wiring is good.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #53  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
you can get 'em to fire up with just running a blow dryer down her intake for a few mins.
testing gp system '87-94:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...low-plugs.html

you'll have to replace the tps most likely asap.you don't want e40d issues if you can help it;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #54  
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by myself, don't have a buddy, not limited by tools have a shops worth with me minus specialty tools. how do i just bench test the controller? a call will work, but I need to pm my number. its -5 already here, with a nice wind chill, trying to stay indoors if i can, and get to autozone and order a new controller before they close at 9. five min down the road.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:51 PM
  #55  
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I have been having problems with my voltage meter working when it wants to, I wonder, if this is a clue to my current dilemma?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #56  
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A starter relay is wired internally different from the standard glow plug relay. With the standard GPR, one of the small terminals has a red wire that 12v any time the key is turned to run or start. The other small terminal has a white wire from the controller. The controller connects that white wire to ground when the controller wants to energize the plugs.
On a starter relay, the ground is the mounting tabs, so the white wire has to be connected to one of the relay mounting screws. If the starter relay has 2 small terminals, the red wire connects to the "S" terminal.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:32 AM
  #57  
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great now my wtsl doesn't come on at all. I hooked up my wires correctly I'm going to check my ground, but I really think that my controller is shot.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Phy
A starter relay is wired internally different from the standard glow plug relay. With the standard GPR, one of the small terminals has a red wire that 12v any time the key is turned to run or start. The other small terminal has a white wire from the controller. The controller connects that white wire to ground when the controller wants to energize the plugs.
On a starter relay, the ground is the mounting tabs, so the white wire has to be connected to one of the relay mounting screws. If the starter relay has 2 small terminals, the red wire connects to the "S" terminal.
so to make the relay work I need to connect the white wire to gnd?? I thought they were the same. well...... the other relay may have been good then, and my problems stem from a bad controller. I thought the other one was bad because of the difference AKA "coil fused" good to know. I have the red and starter wire connected to S terminal, and white to the opposite terminal. what else? I have to admit, I am confused, I am an electrical repairman by trade, I don't understand the individual functions of the wires, if I did then I might be better equipped to fix this myself. the wires are currently a mystery to me on the controller for the most part, thus my dilemma. I understand that the base of the relay is the other end of the coil, and s is the opposite end. brown wires are glows, black is supposed to be gnd, red is supposed to be hot when ignition is on, so connect to s, green is a sensing wire??? which is why it is connected to the business end of the switch.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 01:18 PM
  #59  
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If you want to be sure it's just the GP controller that's not functioning, just take a big screwdriver and short out the large terminals on the relay for ~5-6 seconds or so. It should start then.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #60  
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I figured that much, but to get it to start once, and keep it running are two different things. thanks for the tip though. just like jumping a starter
 
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