We want video! YouTube it.

 

When you use a wheel spacer, make sure you use a 4-stud one, mine was a fiver and it was a serious PITA to get drilled because of the offset holes. the feed line is teflon steel braided, it is no longer any good, there is a small leak near the feed end, as in, maybe a drop per 10 miles or so, but still no good. where can I source some of said hose???
If you use a setup that is similar, make sure that you measure, measure, measure again. A/C is a nice thing to have. The way it was intended to be run, was with the exhaust dumping forward, but I didn't like that, so I flipped it around, otherwise, the drain tube would be in the breather hole instead of having a hose. For the turbo, It is a free floater "no wastegate" only meant for commercial diesels, according to my research, but there is no data plate so anything could be possible.
now for the ****


















video to follow

 

where is that mandrel bender nintendo?



oh its a crush bend i guess right?
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...91585249_n.jpg

well anyway,looks good.so how does she get along now with a little forced induction? bit more pep in her step now uh?

 

you do not need a wastegate. the early turbo kits were not wastegated.
the wastegate was put on the turbo after they went to a smaller turbo for faster spooling. the wastegate limits the amount of boost the small turbo makes.

the older turbos were boost limited by the large size of the turbo housing.
the larger the turbo, the lower the boost.
the smaller the turbo the higher the boost.

 

You need to rotate the center section of the turbo...It will live a short and fast life if you run the drain sidways like that. it will prolly drain ok while the engine is running but at shutdown oil will sit in the bearing and coke up fast. The drain needs to be straight down. I would also ditch that rad hose for the charge air, have a piece of pipe bent up.

I realy like the ingenuity behind the entire kit, and I commend you for doing what you did, if it weren't for people trying different things we would all be living in caves still...

I forgot to ask earlier. do any of you IDI guys just dump your crank case vent to atmosphere? I think this would possible help with your CDR problem.

Diesel Rod

 

I think I figured out where my oil leak is. It is all over the starter and running down the pass side of the motor under the manifold. valve covers are good. looks like some boost is sneaking past the cdr, boost gage wont get past 5psi "may be my ghetto rigged vacuum line setup leaking boost" I thread taped the oil fitting from the block and looks like no leaks from there. I have oil leaking past the intake hose just off of the turbo, looks like I need a better clamp. everything works well. I def have more power, no black smoke, but if I get into it I can watch the needle drop. I still have white/blue smoke under load. I need like a checklist so that I can go through this thing before the trip. I plan to move the center section down a little to help move oil along some.

 

If you didn't turn the fuel on the injection pump up, your truck isn't using any more fuel than it was before.

 

so........ bad cdr? how will I know? the oil is coming out of the dipstick area, everything above it is clean.

 

Im going to use a shop vac to test the cdr and see if it sucks and blows.

 

If I were you, I'd come up with a plan to block the air going into the engine in case you get a runaway... oil leaking turbos can make your engine go boom.

 

hmm..... good point

 

Just keep a fire extinguisher close by they work. I wouldn't worry about it though, the combustion chambers need to be really really hot to get that to happen. Liquid oil doesn't combust like it would if it was misted through an injector. Ive covered tractor hoods with oil that has spit out the turbo seals and seen shafts snap in half, no run aways.....

Diesel Rod

 

A CO2 extinguisher would work, don't use a chemical one!

 

i really hope you pluged the stock manifold exit, if not thats why its making no boost. all the gasses are escaping out the open exit were the collector pipe is saposed to be. as i see the custom flange built on to it that is on the first 2 manifold exits whitch is fine and then as the turbo spools with the exhaust gasses they exit out the other opening of the turbo(as we all know) but again if that stock collector mount isnt pluges off completely, no real boost will be made and you have one loud truck running leaner on one side which can cause it to run away.

 

buzzy,the pipe he had bent up that you see crossing over under the truck is the pipe that connects the two exhaust mani's together (cross over.) this way both exhaust mani's spin the turbo via exhaust pressure and heat.the new exhaust exit is out the side of the turbo (down pipe.)