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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 11:38 AM
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Battery Light Flashing

Hi All,

The Battery Light flashes on 2002 excursion 7.3l. I have been having a problem for several months, one of the batteries ended up being shot, alternator checks out. Problem is there is nor rhyme or reason as to when or if the light will flash, it is not consistent with a shorted wire that is bouncing around and grounding out. If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate them. Thanks, Paul
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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Mine was doing that too (V10 though). It was the alternator. Seems like it would charge then stop then charge then stop, etc.

Got a junkyard one off an F250 about 3 months/5k miles ago and haven't seen the light flash or had charging problems since.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by k9trainer
Hi All,

The Battery Light flashes on 2002 excursion 7.3l. I have been having a problem for several months, one of the batteries ended up being shot, alternator checks out. Problem is there is nor rhyme or reason as to when or if the light will flash, it is not consistent with a shorted wire that is bouncing around and grounding out. If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate them. Thanks, Paul
Get a multi-meter and check the output.

When you discovered the one battery being shot, you replaced them both, correct?

Never ever replace just one battery.

Stewart
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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I have one of these in every vehicle I own.



I bought one for each vehicle because of Greg's thread found here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10806422

Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake
Last fall we added a second 7.3 to the family which became my wife's daily driver. I decided to purchase some cheap electronic volt meters that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket to monitor the battery and charging system.

What I like about these meters is that my wife doesn't have to know anything about vehicle electrical systems to know when something is wrong. I explained to her that the light should be green before she turns the key on, then it will be in the red while the glow plugs are warming, yellow when the engine starts (glow plugs still on...) and finally green again when the GPs turn off and/or the system is charged up again.

So, last Friday she told me that the engine seems to be cranking slower and it's been taking a lot longer for the meter to go back to green once the engine is started. I checked it out on Sunday and sure enough, the meter was yellow and then showed only 10.5 volts with key on. Amazingly the engine started but it sure was slow to crank so I had the batteries load tested and one was bad and the other was weak. The date code on her batteries was May of 2006 so they lasted for a good while. The brand was one that I've never heard of before (Centennial)?

At any rate, a new pair of Interstate batteries from Costco and everything is good for a few more years. I am glad I had the meter and my wife was attentive enough to notice something was wrong because it was only a matter of time before she would have been stranded somewhere needing a jump start. From time to time I travel so with my luck it would have happened while I was out of town to boot....

Here are some photos of the meter that I use and what the readings are during the various conditions. If I remember correctly, these photos were taken during a cold start with ambient temps around 30-40 degrees.



Greg's follow-up thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11679030

Absolutely invaluable for helping catch a problem before it becomes a problem.

Stewart
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Dec 31, 2012 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for all the advice. Yes I did replace both batteries. I also had the alternator tested. I have already replaced the alternator twice and the batteries twice in the last 3 years.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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I have the same issue and i have a voltmeter. I have been clueless and basically ignore it. It happens at random times and random scenarios.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Where did you get your alternator? I used to go through about one alternator a year from autozoo. I've got a plug in volt meter similar to what Stewart shows that I can use.

I'd guess that regardless of what they are telling you when it's tested, the alternator is why your light is flashing and it's time to replace it before it kills the new batteries.

I'm currently trying out a 140 amp alternator that was available for the 6.0 and has a larger case to it. It's still new to me so no longevity reports yet, but I'm hoping it does better than the "lifetime" 110 amp alternators I've been using.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by k9trainer
Thanks for all the advice. Yes I did replace both batteries. I also had the alternator tested. I have already replaced the alternator twice and the batteries twice in the last 3 years.
Have you checked the output yourself with the engine running when your battery light comes on?

Make sure all your grounds have good clean contact too.

Glad to hear you replaced both batteries!

Chris, I am hoping that 140 alt works well. When it comes time to replace mine, I plan on going the same route you have since you've blazed the path!

Stewart
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 06:19 PM
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I am having the same battery light issue. I have a 2000 7.3 in my Excursion. Battery are interstate less than a year old. Volt meter says each battery is at 11.5 volts. The post at the rear of the alternator shows 11.5 volts when running. This alternator is 2 years old.

I am guessing alternator but want to check here before I drop cash on a new one. Post up fellas.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by wal1809
I am having the same battery light issue. I have a 2000 7.3 in my Excursion. Battery are interstate less than a year old. Volt meter says each battery is at 11.5 volts. The post at the rear of the alternator shows 11.5 volts when running. This alternator is 2 years old.

I am guessing alternator but want to check here before I drop cash on a new one. Post up fellas.
Measure your voltage output on the back of the alternator after the glow plugs cycle off. (wait 2 minutes after starting and then check). You should see a little above 14 volts.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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It had been running for a while before I checked it and it was at 11.5 volts from the alternator.

have a code thrown for the #8 glow plug. Would my procrastination in fixing that be a cause for the alternator low voltage?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 06:48 PM
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11.5 volts isn't normal for either the batteries or from the alternator. The batteries (if I'm not mistaken) should read 12.4v with the truck off and 13v+ with the truck running, no? You're probably draining the living crap out of your batteries and slowly killing them since the alternator isn't charging them the way it should.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Thank you fellas I will replace the alternator tomorrow. I am headed to go duck hunting in Arkansas next and need to get this issue cleared up right now.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:10 AM
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I will have the alternator checked again. I bought it from Check er, but had it tested at a separate auto shop. The problem with testing it when under a load is that it normally only comes on when driving. I did manage to get it to come on in park, but that was revving to about 3,000 rpm.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 07:10 AM
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Not sure if I'm just dumb but with your Ex running shouldn't you be able to read around 14 volts at the battery with it just on and idling?
 
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