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I would add a coolant filter, external spin-on tranny filter, and when you do the hutch and harpoon mod I would add a external spin-on fuel filter and a bypass oil filter.
Sorry, I didn't know the earlier trucks were different.
I didn't know either until I purchased a complete wiring harness from an '02 and began comparing stuff. The '99-'01 trucks have a relay mounted on the passenger fender well under the hood for some odd reason. It's not really needed since the starter has it's own solenoid already but I guess Ford found it was a hard habit to break. (Ford has had fender mounted solenoids for decades on their trucks...)
Starting in '02, Ford got rid off that fender mounted solenoid which probably saved a nice sum of money in build costs. They also saved quite a bit in cable costs since the body power was supplied by the driver's side battery clamp vs the previous method which was to route the cables across the cowl all the way over to the solenoid on the fender.
All in all, I think the '02-'03 method is probably a better way as long as the post clamps are kept clean. One nice benefit of the earlier style is the fender solenoid makes it easy to add a starter kill switch by simply interrupting the small wire that operates the solenoid.
Here is a link posted in another thread that shows what the earlier style harness looked like.
I would add a coolant filter, external spin-on tranny filter, and when you do the hutch and harpoon mod I would add a external spin-on fuel filter and a bypass oil filter.
How many miles do you have on the truck now?
Yup...agreed. How about extra tranny cooling and the admonishment "Always back up with the transfer case in 4L with a trailer"?
Have you done any mods to your truck? I know what you mean on the airbox. Both tabs on mine are broken. I have a homemade clamp keeping it closed for now. I looked into replacing the airbox but they're fairly expensive on eBay. Supply and demand at it finest.
I guess it depends on what you consider mods. I dumped the stock air box long ago. I've got a fuel crossover, have removed the check valve springs from the HPOP fittings in lieu of a HPOP crossover, coolant filter, hutch & harpoon on the fuel tank, an aftermarket shift ****, and if I had an auto, I would have installed a shift kit in the valve body. I've also got a scan gauge that can read 2 parameters at once, in addition to pulling codes and running a couple of tests.
Otherwise, it's stock with a whole bunch of oil changes under it's belt. Just got a new clutch put in and it's like I've got a brand new truck again. Life is good. 500k doesn't look so scary the closer I get to it.
I have swapped out the high pressure oil lines on top of the motor, replaced the o-rings and sleeves on the fuel bowl, and changed all the coolant hoses, but that's more of a maintenance item than a mod, unless you count changing to the dual alternator upper radiator hose so the hose goes around the serpentine belt instead of through the middle of it.
Just messin with ya Chris. That's a great thread and now on my to-do list along with a T444E water pump.
For the OP, x2 on the trans cooler, coolant filter and Hutch/Harpoon. These mods have been used by many people for many miles, which approximates the level of development FOMOCO built into these things. IMO very few mods can exceed OEM for longevity, but where the bean counters cut production costs we can make some improvements.
I'll also recommend the FRx, but it has less of a track record.
This thread has been very helpful. I have a great list of things to do now to help keep my trucking for a long time. I've noticed that a lot of people on here have moved away from the stock air filter box. Is it really that bad? I'm thinking about replacing mine because of cracks and broken tabs... Should I just go ahead and grab the 6637 kit from Clay?
This thread has been very helpful. I have a great list of things to do now to help keep my trucking for a long time. I've noticed that a lot of people on here have moved away from the stock air filter box. Is it really that bad? I'm thinking about replacing mine because of cracks and broken tabs... Should I just go ahead and grab the 6637 kit from Clay?
Clay's kit is nice and everything you need. The 6637 will be noisier, but some like the turbo noise/whooshing sounds. It doesn't hurt, might help power a bit, will be a good foundation for future upgrades (chip, etc), hard to go wrong. A plus is it's easy to take off to work on that side of the motor.
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