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Don't mess around with it. Block heaters have destroyed more than a few trucks. Since it is 115 volt and right at 1,000 watts, you need to correct it before using. Easiest way to determine what is going on is to disconnect the other end from the block heater on the oil filter housing. If it doesn't trip a breaker it is the heater. If it des, it is the cord.
This happened to me when I inadvertantly added more electrical load on the same circuit. Checking for anything extra on the circuit (yard light?) would be step 1, then do as woodnthings suggested. I had to buy a whole new block heater for Stinky and run the cable.
Thank guys, it is the only thing plugged in. Ill have to disconnect it from the oil filter housing and start there. Il let you know. On a side note it is 9°the at my place this morning and my truck is parked outside my shop.
9 out 10 times it's the plug. But it is always best to pull the cord and check it. If it won't start on it own, I would change the plug and try that. If it works keep an eye on it for a few hours then fire it up. Then get her in the shop and pull and inspect the cord where it's warm.
how old is your GPR? I just replaced my GPR that was 7 years old
I can now start the truck w/o plugging in block heater
There is some thread here that will tell you how to test/diagnose a bad wire lead or actual heater element. search and you will find..
99% of the time it is NOT the block heater; it is the block heater cord. Double and triple check the cord for any kinks or indentations. Unplug it from the element and clean the ports and the brass outside tab (I used my wife's nail file for the outer tab, gently rubbing away debris). I unplugged mine and pulled the whole cord out and found a tiny kink was actually a break in continuity. Also the minimal corrosion on the connector didn't help. It was a 20 minute job (re-running wiring) but saved $. You can get replacement cord on amazon too for about $12-$16. Just make sure it's the right cord!!!!!
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