I have a 96' Bronco, and yesterday at the beach I tried to use my 4 wheel drive and noticed it wasn't working. I put the tranny in neutral and pushed the 4x4 button and it lit up but it didnt engage. I then put the tranny in neutral again and pushed the 4 low button and it lit up and the transfer case clunked over but still no 4 wheel drive. I tried it several times and nothing. Everything lights up and when I push the 4 low button the transfer case seems to shift over but I still have no 4 wheel drive. Any ideas on what might be wrong and what I can probably do to fix the problem? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Welcome to FTE.
Sounds like a case of Fords fabulous automatic hubs failing. Did you notice any noises while engaging? You said you heard the transfer case clunk right? That tells me the engagement motor is working fine. The auto hubs crapped out on my 96 too. The best thing you can do is swap those hubs out to some Warn Premium manual hubs. Yes, you lose that 'on-the-fly' shifting, but what you will gain in reliability far outweighs that. You just have to lock the hubs ahead of time, then you can go between 4x4 and 2wd with the same switch on your dash.


Rich

 

Change your hub locks to manuals (MileMarker or Warn Premium) and check your transfer case shift motor.

 

My buddy used to have a Bronco and he crawled underneath it today and heard it switch when I pushed the 4x4 high button and also when I pushed the the 4x4 button it made a ugly cluncking noise and he said it soundeed like the transfer case didnt have enough lube in it. An when we drove it the 4x4 never kicked in. So I am hoping its just the hubs myself but who knows I am new at this thing. Thanks for your help and if you have any other advice its greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Seems like everybody gave you the right answer. I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the autohubs with Warn Premiums.

One thing they didn't mention is you can check to make sure the 4wd is engaging by crawling under the truck and having some one move it a foot or two. You should be able to see the axelshafts spinning. If that is the case get some manual hubs.

 

Thank you everyone for taking the time to help with the advice. Can any of you please tell me how hard is it to change out the hubs to the Warn premium hubs? And if it is to hard for me to do since it would be my first time doing it what should something like this cost if I have a mechanic do it for me? Thanks for all of the help. And does anyone have or know of a technical writeup on how to do this conversion on the internet?

Thanks

 

Is it bad to leave the hubs locked on a long drive? I forgot to unlock them after being at the beach all weekend and drove about 60 miles on it like that..... have I just cost myself some $$$$????

 

you cost yourself some money, yes, in extra gasoline because you just reduced your gas mileage a little bit because of the extra drag, but that's about it, you will be fine my friend. Most of the time in the winter around here, I go weeks on end just leaving my hubs locked, never knowing when i will encounter the perfect snow drift or ditch to tackle and i don't want get out.

 

Any replies on this? All of your help and advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

I did the conversion a few months ago. It's not hard, and I don't have years of experience or anything. I'm assuming you have the 3-screw hubs. You will need a torx bit to take the cap off. Then you pull the snap ring out, small screwdrivers or a industrial pick will help, the ring can be trying. Put two of the screws back into the hub body, to give you something to pull on, and remove the hub body. Then there is the axle retaining ring and three washers, use your pick to help pull those out. Then take the spindle nut off, using a special 4-prong socket avalible at auto parts stores. Just ask for a "4-prong spindle nut socket for Bronco and F-series). My socket was offset, as in, it isn't 90 degree angles for each prong, so if you think it doesn't fit make sure you try all four sides and it should slide right on. So you use the socket to remove the nut, and all you should see is wheel bearing. The installation is easier than the removal. Put on the new spindle nut (which you will have to order with your hubs, if you have the 3 screw), then install the hub. Make sure you snap that axle retaining ring on. That's pretty much it.

 

It isn't that difficult to replace the hubs. It typically takes 1-2 hours in the driveway. You will need some picks or small screwdrivers, and especially the 4-prong socket. I am surprised your's is offset BroncoMTR, as both of mine have equally spaced prongs (all at 90° angles).

Here's how to test the auto hubs:
With your Bronco in 2WD, climb under the front and rotate the front driveshaft by hand. You should get about 1/4 - 1/2 turn before the hubs lock. It will keep turning if they don't lock. If they do lock, try turning the driveshaft more with all your strength, and they may break free. I had a hub that would lock, but with any force, it would let go.

While everyone here suggests the Warn Premiums, don't discount the Mile Marker hubs. It's probably an equal debate between the 2, but both are excellent. I personally have the Warn's.

 

Yeah, I was surprised too. I got the Warns. I got the old nut out without the socket (don't ask), so I don't know if the old ones were offset. Sure enough though, the new nut would not fit the socket unless it was on there on a certain side. It was like they were spacing 88 degrees and 92 degrees. Weird huh?

 

Did you click on EITHER of the links in my first post?

 

Well I had my mechanic look at it yesterday and he found out that the transfer case is working but the hubs on both sides aren't locking in. So I am ordering the Warn Premium hubs today and he is going to install them for about $75.00. I figured that was a fair price for the job what do you all think? Oh and he did say that when shifting to 4 wheel low it did sound real ugly when shifting in but it does go in to 4 wheel low but it sound s real ugly getting there and back to 4 wheel high. Do any of you have any ideas on this ?

Thanks,

 

My idea would be to do it yourself. I'm guessing the guy charges a $75 an hour labor rate, and that is pretty high were I am. I've owned my first truck for about a year, and I understand that if it's a daily driver you don't want to get in over your head, but trust me, this is something you can handle and it's worth that extra $75. In fact, taking the time to talk to the shop, driving there, getting a ride back, getting a ride there, and driving back, it's probably faster to do it yourself. You also learn by doing, and should it happen again in some way you'll save the money and time again. It's also simple to test whether they are installed right, just watch the drvieshaft and see if they lock in and disengage properly. My advice is do it yourself.