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Don't get too carried away with the sealant, as you can make a big chunk that will break off and end up in your oil pump screen. Also keep in mind that you will ave to slide the housing back across it some, which adds to the issue of making a piece big enough to break loose. You can lean the housing in a little, but the seal isn't real nice to slide around the crank. You can use a small feeler gauge or such to help roll the seal on, just be careful not to cut the seal.
As far as the inspection cover goes, I wouldn't get too worried about that, I wouldn't mess with a sealant on it. Only good thing it really will do is keep the two pieces from rusting together. Trying to remember if mine even has one... Since I do run in the crud I like to keep a cover there, but it doesn't need to be water tight.
the inspection cover should not be totally sealed, many vehicles have a bit of a gap in the center to make sure it doesn't seal. it should be able to drop any dust that forms from the clutch, and also to drain any oil that may leak past the rear main seal.
Hmm. alrighty.
and Fellro your talkign about using a feeler guage to roll the rear main seal on? or the sealant? I'm not sure what a feeler guage is and i saw somewhere to lay the rear main seal face down on a bench or something and take a plastic hammer and tap the housing onto the seal instead of vise versa?
he would be talking about using the feeler gage as a finger to help you slide the seal over the end of the crank. feeler gages are simple a set of thin pieces of metal, usually used for measuring small gaps, such as a spark plug gap. a thin one would work well as a finger to help get the lip of the seal over the crankshaft without distorting the seal, but obviously be careful not to cut or otherwise damage the seal in the process. even better would be something plastic that resembles a feeler gage
ohhhhhh. yeah now i know what your talkign about as far as a feeler guage. So yall mean trying to get it over the end of the crankshaft while it's IN the housing? Is it really that hard to get on? I mean when i took mine off it was more of stuck inside the housing and stuck to the block from the old housing gasket than stuck tight around the crank?
sometimes they want to fight on one side and try to have the sealing lip fold up backwards where it won't seal, so its wise to have a feeler gage handy to help work it straight as you're just getting it onto the shaft.
Ahhhhhhh! okay, it's in front of me now so i know what you mean. with my new seal in the mail it came with a metal ring, seems to be the same diameter as the inside of the rear main seal. any idea what thats for? i dont think one came out with it?
Ahhhhhhh! okay, it's in front of me now so i know what you mean. with my new seal in the mail it came with a metal ring, seems to be the same diameter as the inside of the rear main seal. any idea what thats for? i dont think one came out with it?
Thats a sleeve for the crank. It provides a new surface for the seal to ride on. Great for older engines that have a ring worn around the crank, or pitting that prevents a seal from working correctly.
It gets installed with red loctite. They are often called 'speedi-sleeves' which might be a brand name for them. I installed one on my engine when I replaced the seal. Can't remember if the crank needed it or now, but it was a daily driver, and I had the clutch apart so only wanted to deal with the seal once (engine had ~200K miles).
Were there any instructions with it? If not, you should be able to find them online. I believe mine came with a tool to press the sleeve and/or seal in with.
Hmm. only tool isaw was a large circular plastic cylindar on a rod with a slide hammer on the rod that goes into the pilot bearing hole and lines up to slide hammer the sleeve on. guess ill have to look elsewhere
Usually the sleeves come with a can looking tool, but I don't recall that mine did. I did use the Ford seal and gasket kit though. It came with a driver. If you are careful, you can use a flat piece of steel or such, just be certain you don't bend the edge of the sleeve. I seem to recall that the sleeve I had was pretty beefy, while the repair sleeves are about paper thin. I seem to recall also that there was one on mine, but it also was rebuilt before I got it, so may not be factory.
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