Ah... this is akin to shooting a little starter fluid in the intake. I'd leave that one alone because of the risk of popping more than a bottle. After all... if it goes wrong, they just tow it to the shop on Sam's dime.

 

You can also just put your hands over the tailpipe have someone started The bottle is not wage in the tailpipe tight it just slides in Thanks how much pop you have in it at 20 pounds of boost starter fluid or gas vapors well light just from the heat of the glow plugs that's why it's not a good idea to use those 2

 

Well it's getting warmer, so I may go try and start it again, but the longer it's off, traditionally, the harder it has been to fire up. I may try and clean my battery terminals, three of four nuts that help bind the terminal onto the battery are pretty much shot, I had to use baking soda and water to get them off the original batteries. When putting them back on, everyone clamps down enough to not twist except for the passenger side positive terminal. This one barely fits onto the battery, but still is able to twist when shoved onto the battery.

 

Have you ever pulled the plug on the top of the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) BEFORE you tried to start the truck to check the oil level (be sure to replace BEFORE trying to start)? Have you serviced the oil lately? Is the oil fairly fresh and of the correct weight?

 

I have not, I checked the IPR for finger tightness, and it was tight. I will check the oil level in the HPOP. The last oil change was about a month ago, and everything in the truck is Rotella 15w-30 AFAIK. Since I got the truck, it has leaked a bit of oil, I top it off about every other time I fill it with diesel. When I was changing the GPR, I was looking down in between the motor, and there were two pools of oil about an inch deep. Quite a bit of the stuff, although since I've not looked down into that spot before, I'm not even sure if it was there before or after the truck would not start.

 

I read that you replaced the GPR, but did you ohm out the glowplugs?

 

I am suspecting that you have bad cable connections at the batteries. Not getting enough amps for a strong and long crank. Jumping from another vehicle would help if you can get a good connection. You might go to walmart and get one of those little gadgets that you pl
ug into the cig-oulet or power-oulet, it will read your amps(digital).

 

Chucknasty,

I am in N. Dallas and no expert (no AE either) but I prob. can help you diagnose your issues. Call me 214-687-2644.

Paul Spencer

 

It will read volts, but not amps.

 

Great offer Paul, reps on the way!

 

THATS WHAT I MEANT, THANKS...

 

So did you ever get it running?? What was the problem??

 

Hey Ya'll, sorry for just letting this thread die. Never really replied because one day when it was warm enough [40F+] it just started right up, like it never had a problem :/

Since then, I've just been sure to run it at least once a week, and warm it up if I know it's gonna freeze overnight.

Sorry to be so anti-climactic, but that is how it happened :/ I do need to start looking for possible oil leaks though, as I do loose about a quart every other tank [maybe this is normal?] Also I may start a new thread, but my shifter has so much slop in it, and I don't think it's the two screws that are usually suspect. Normally this isn't an issue, but now it seems to cause my truck to start in neutral, is this normal? When I turn the key in P, it does absolutely nothing.

Thanks ya'll for being such a great host!

 

Starting in neutral is normal.

 

I'd check those screws myself. And a qt of oil every 2 tank fulls is definitely not normal!