Needs a good charge on the batteries and it should fire. Check the HPOP oil level. It may be drained.

Your rough running when cold sounds like a bad injector...


Honestly it sounds like my truck all over again... Keep plugging away at it and do the things you can easily do with the help on here and you should get it running.

 

I just read this thread,it sounds like a weak starter to me..jmho.The starter had probably been getting weak/going bad taking out the batteries,when the temp got lower it just sealed the deal..been there and done that.

 

Yeah, at this point, I fear that either all the glow plugs are burnt out, or I have bad injectors somewhere. I may try and plug it in to an outlet for four or more hours now that I've located the cord, I really just want to move it to someplace I can change glowplugs and injectors without having to get it towed. Before this event, when I would use WOT [always fully warmed up], it would produce a smoke a bit more greyish than dark black. Someone called and offered to help, so I may try jumping it a bit more.

Do I need to prime the HPOP now? If the glowplugs were good before, could I have burnt them out from three days of trying to crank without turning over?

Edit: Can I test the starter with a $10 multi-meter? The only thing that makes me think the starter is alright is that it was working fine before, but still running rough after turning over. I very well may have burnt it out with all this cranking though, and I have no idea of it's age.

 

After you installed the new batteries,how long did it seem to turn over(crank) before you would have to put a charger on them?

 

Just check to make sure the oil is within about an inch of the top of the HPOP reservoir...If it isn't bring it up to that level and stop, any more oil added to the hPOP after that point will drain to pan.

Not likely...

No, if you want to check amperage draw...If you want to test the starter, take it to an auto electric shop.

 

It would help if you wouldn't keep confusing "turning over" and "firing." Turning over is what the starter does for you and firing is where combustion takes over...

I do think we'll get it sorted out.

 

That's my guess...need some way to check it (scan tool or AE). Unless you know someone with a good working IPR that you could swap for troubleshooting. I think they are about $180 so not something you just want to throw money down for if it's not the culprit

 

This post was a little confusing to me.."still not turning over"..do you mean not firing and staying running..or still not"turning over very fast??

Also.."I got two good long cranks..but wanted to leave some power in them"..were the batteries already showing weakness after only two good cranks...

 

i am 20 min from you sounds like the same thang i had wed. morning i had to charge the batterys and by that time the motor was flooded with fuel and had to plug the tail pipe to git it to start. call me we can look at it and see 2 heads better then 1 lol

 

Sorry, I thought I knew my terms, but seems I've been mixing things up since the start. The motor does turn over, and lately, it has sounded like it is almost firing.

I think I was mis-using terms, it is turning over, just not firing. I may make a short video showing the oil pressure and voltage dance around.

Kinda, after three or four, it'll be noticeable slower.

Yeah, I may try this, I just got a 2 liter. I charged the batts yesterday, and was hoping it would just fire right up, but sounds like I may be giving you a call to come help jump it to see if that helps.

 

That's gas talk. If you plugged the exhaust to get it to start, that sounds like an exhaust backpressure sensor issue. If the engine was "flooded with fuel", it would hydrolock. Diesel can burn very rich and the only side-effect is black smoke.

 

I have never heard of plugging a tailpipe to get an engine started. I would like to know the science behind that.

 

That's a new one on me as well... but we diesel guys never try gas experiments. The only thing that comes to mind is the EBP sensor. I know from that last link in my signature that imbalances between the EBP sensor, MAP, and BARO before starting can cause issues... but I always thought it was a tuning nuance thing.

jccapri must have really long arms.

 

So it's turning over and wanting to light off but not enough to continue running if you let off the key?

Try holding the pedal to the floor. This may help it try to run when you let off the key. Sounds like what mine was doing when the temps dropped below 45 or so.

 

The plug in the tailpipe is something my brother found out about in Iraq he was over on his second tour over a Stryker unit. it holds the diesel fumes that are umburnt in the chamber the fumes light easier then Raw fuel. I have a 4 inch exhaust and a 2 liter coke bottle empty no lid fit snug inside of it when the motor starts Bottle Pops out