Got the ScanGauge II today. After looking at the number and asking the question where the numbers should be, I learned my numbers are spot on. My truck has 51500 +/- miles on it and I'm looking at doing the EGR Delete, straight pipe, dummy plugs and standpipe on it soon. Since it appears my oil cooler is in good shape, based on the numbers, and I'm adding a coolant filter, is it really necessary for me to drop the cash on a new oil cooler. I know its only another 400 or so for the cooler and new gaskets, but its always nice to save a little where you can. But then its like do I really want to have to tear into it, or pay somebody more labor to change the oil cooler. My luck the temps will start crapping out a week after I get it all buttoned up. Let me know what you think. I wont ask for which company youd go with cause thats like asking if you like Bud or Bud Light lol.

 

BTW. I'm looking at BPD stuff and Sinister Diesel. I have heard the customer support is excellent at BFD so that is always a plus.

 

sinister diesel. welcome to the scangauge. i'm getting stuff together to do the egr delete. after my egr delete and flush and new ELC, my next focus is on the ARP headstuds, cleaning the heads, new custom tune, and i think she should be fine and good to go.

 

if ur going with the sinister diesel egr delete kit, make sure u get the OEM egr cooler hose. little thing but it'll last better. also, i'm taking the opportunity to update my turbo oil feed tube and turbo oil drain pipe. the updated parts are out there, so why not? lol.

 

Right. When i got the cash imma ask on here everything i should update while having it apart but without being rediclous. Whats the oil cooler house? Is that the blue hose thats only like 2 in long

 

If your oil cooler numbers are spot on I say leave it.

And I would say replacing the STC fitting far more important than the standpipes and dummy plugs

Josh

 

josh is right about the stc fitting. tats to the hpop. standpipes and dummy plugs are important too. i had mine updated while it was last apart.

yes, the oil cooler hose connects to the egr cooler hose, and sometimes it's blue or orange. yes it is about 2 inches. dont reuse the original, just get another one. to be on the safe side. no leaks and stuff like tat.

 

i believe the blue one is the updated one and it's also the tougher one.

 

Make shure Cold soak temps are Same at startup

ECT
EOT
TFT
Ambeint if early AM startup

They sound like they will be Close

 

If I had a 50K mile 6.0 and the numbers were good, I would do absolutely nothing to it. Add the coolant filter, and drive it with the Scangauge to monitor, and you will be fine. Keep it stock, don't open it up and you will be far better off.

This is, btw, exactly what I am doing with my truck. 2005 F250 that I bought with 55K on it. One thing - do the fuel pressure spring upgrade as soon as you possibly can - critical upgrade.

Brian

 

I did the Blue Spring Kit already. Did that within days of buying it because it was leaking. Yes, I'm glad you mentioned the STC Fitting because I forgot all about it. My truck is kinda of sluggglish on warm starts and sometimes cold starts so I would do all three STF, dummy and standpipes. But I mean, If Im going to tear into it, then Imma do it all while I have it open. Just that the oil cooler is good, I dont c why I would need to drop the cash on a new one esp If im going to be putting the coolant filter on there so It should prevent it from clogging at all. Not to mention the oil feed tube and drain tube while I would have the turbo off.

 

I'm not sure what the fear is with changing the oil cooler. It's only a 3-4 hour job when the time comes up for it.

Josh

 

Ok, so I just sat down and made my list of things that I will need to purchase now that I am saving up and I have about a grand saved up. Let me know if I am missing something or something else I should do while its all apart.

-4in Turbo Back Exhaust (Straight)
-Exhaust Tip (I dont know what size tip I will go with. Proab 5 or 6. I don't want gaudy)
-EGR Delete (Dont know what brand BPD or Sinister Diesel)
-Updated Stand Pipe
-Updated Dummy Plugs
-SCT Tune to get ride of the errors associated with deleting the egr and running straight pipe.
-Updated STC Fitting and gasket kit since I will have to pull the HPOP
-Coolant Filter (Proab Sinister Diesel)
-Updated Turbo Drain Tube
-Updated Turbo Oil Feed Tube
-New Oil Cooler and gasket kit (If I decide to go that route. Proab will just say f it and buy it so I dont have to worry about it again)


Can somebody give me a ball park figure of what I am looking at to do this no including labor. Ill proab let the pros do the exhaust so then can weld it. Ill just hook up the down pipe while I have the turbo out and doing the EGR Delete.

 

First off id like to say you are in a good position and have got a good truck early enough. FWIW i just changed my oil cooler at 120k(50*delta).
The main thing on your exhaust is upgrade the downpipe(4") and delete CAT and muffler.I would do it yourself, its easy working on exhaust. FWIW i trust bolts and nuts on exhaust. Ive found welding points LET YOU DOWN and rust and break. I also have a 7" tip. Looks like a rocketship. 6" looks good too
Delete EGR, youll love it. Rudys Diesel has an EGR Delete Kit/ New Oil Cooler/ New Intake Gaskets for $420 on EBay. Thats what i went with. Good Stuff.
I dont know why you need to pull HPOP but i wouldnt worry about STC fitting stand pipes or dummy plugs unless you have an 05+. Along with the SCT tuner if you leave EGR valve in place plugged in it will not mess w comp.
Go with Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter. Its got a port to add pressure gauge.
Not a bad idea to upgrade turbo oil supply and drain lines. Turbo hardware kit comes with all new gaskets n orings if you dont wanna upgrade lines.
You MIGHT be looking at a $1000 total. Piece by piece tho itll be pretty easy to save up. Good luck buddy. Do the work yourself! Please dont pay anybody. (that was not including labor at all...)You wont know exactly what has been done! Youll learn alot about your truck.

 

Thanks man. Good little kit for not such a bad price. I have an 06 and I notice in the summer when I go to start, its slugglish and sometimes when its cold and I run it a while and then go to start it while everything is hot, its slugglish. So I did some reading a while back and they mentioned the standpipes, dummy plugs and revised STC fitting would be causing it since its not letting the right pressure build up. Im sure I could narrow it down with the ScanGauge II, just have to no what to look at when Im starting since I have the SG II. Just that the standpipe and dummy plugs are right there when doing the egr delete and all. Just the STC fitting is a whole different area, but they say that's usually the root cause and the most important. Just trying to save up for a house and I don't want to drop a ton of money into a truck and I don't want have to do one thing at a time when I can get it all done in one go round. Another member on here told me close to 4000, took the drive out of me to get it done lol. And I have using the word tune on here, cause you got some people that want to makes these truck push 600hp and blow smoke out the back like your burning a rubber tire in a fireplace. I just dont want a check engine light every time i drive the truck. I think these trucks come with plenty of power and torque.

But on the other hand this truck makes me money in the summer and I cant have it going in to the shop getting the cab pulled off cause I wanted to be cheap. Its always cheaper to take measures to help prevent things from going south then fixing it when things went south.

And yes I agree, I love working on my own things cause its some much more rewarding when you work on your own stuff and you can say, yes I did that. Not to mention you learn about your truck and when your trying to figure out what is wrong and somebody is telling you, you have a better idea of what they are talking about since you were elbow deep in your truck.