I would like to say first off. I love the information I have gained from reading everyones post. I have a question about factory quailty paint job.
I have a 97 F250 HD. Unlike most people who spend there hard earned money on upgrades. I would rather keep my Ford trucks as Original as possible. The only items on my truck that are not Ford is the battery, the camper shell, the radio(no cut wires)(factory harness used)and the speakers, Heater blower fan original was plastic I went with a metal upgrade. besides these few items my truck is the way it came. Back to the paint now you know how I am about keeping it original. The paint is starting to chip around the gutter and flake away. I dont want to take it somewhere and have some jackleg screw it up(runs, bad orange peel etc), and I dont think the whole truck needs painting probably just the top of the cab although i have seen alot out there that the hoods do the same thing I wax this truck about three times a year and wash it about two or three times a month(detailed)(underneath bumpers, gas doors, door jams, underhood, and clean off all rubber seals) obbsessive, maybe but I love my F250. .
Anyway does anyone have any suggestions on fixing this issue with the ford factory paint without spending thousands of dollars.

 

id tape along the body seams at the roof to redo the top. and sand it down till you have slight feathering between the base and colour. remove the window trim so you can make it look uniform.

im going to assume since you do wax it, there is hardly any paint fade or rust so good on you!

on both of my truck the vents have cracked and blistered (when the 92 was Fushia)
this is on account of lazy line workers who didnt prep it properly, and it also happens with age.
same goes for the crowl, sand it down till it starts to feather, and scuff the everliving snot out of the holes with a scotchbrite pad, green would work here as red would be too rough and you dont want to go down to metal.

doing it off the truck is a even better idea cause then you can get every nook and cranny of it with a uniform job.

Hope it works for the best!, and a tip for the clear coat, add a cap full of hardner to it.

 

weird doesnt say i posted...

 

Just a FYI, NOTHING will be as good of quality as the factory paint. You may get more shine, depth etc, but the factory paint will ALWAYS be more durable.

 

That's such a sad truth... But yes, get a good quality product and it will last some more, but it will never be factory-durable.

 

True on Factory paint, but if you use Dupont Imron 6000 (commercial truck paint) this is just as durable. Painted 3 rigs with it. This stuff is as hard as a diamond. Just not cheap.

 

Also Very Toxic! Be sure to follow the instructions on wearing respirators.

 

paint hasn't improved since '97? that's sad.

 

Actually..... It's water based now. It's deffinatly a game changer.

 

Water based is actually weaker (I'm pretty sure Puddy meant to state this), and also, DIY's usually can't replicate the ideal conditions in which the paint was applied originally.

 

Deffinatly have to pay attention more now to how it lays out.
and Encho, you are absolutly correct on the ideal conditions. Nothing is more ideal than when it first ran down the line.