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My truck is running. I drive it every day. I still have the rough idle and not running the best, but I'm hoping to do Stage I injectors and T500 soon. I hope that will fix my problem. I got Mike's TS chip too, so if the injectors fix the problem, I'll be getting some tunes too
That looks a lot better than mine for sure! I have access to CNC machines at work, but I don't know how to run them! LOL!! And, there is nobody there to show me. All those machines just sitting up there doing nothing.
Looks fine, but honestly it needs some insulation between metal and rubber hose, and I like more the one from Bill, more practical, more economic, easy to fab, etc, etc. Sorry, but just IMHO.
I like it quite a lot, seems like something a more-talented-than-usual Ford engineer would have come up with. It appears to be quite sturdy and while you wouldn't want to use it as a lifting point, it's at least as solid as lifting eyes I've seen on some truck engines in the past. It looks like something one would expect to see in the engine bay, really. The only suggestion I have would be to use a little bit of black Plasti-Dip to hide the tips at the top where the heat shrink inevitably pulled away - but that's just a cosmetic thing, not functional.
Maybe you should consider taking orders for a batch of these? Thanks for sending me this one - I appreciate it.
Originally Posted by DZL JIM
Here's my solution:
That looks really neat - would make a great trick show piece for a heavily (and obviously) modded engine where there's a ton of non-stock stuff clearly in view. My concern with it would be the chamfer where the hose goes through - it seems like it might damage the hose in use. Obviously easy enough to fix. Needs to be anodized or cad plated some odd color and have your company logo on it, too.
Looks fine, but honestly it needs some insulation between metal and rubber hose, and I like more the one from Bill, more practical, more economic, easy to fab, etc, etc. Sorry, but just IMHO.
By design I didn't want to rely on any insulation in there. I made it such that the hole is sized so that the top piece of the support clamps down firmly onto the hose so that the hose cannot move at all, yet it is not really crimping the hose at all. Upon install, I dictate the bend coming off the top of the pump and clamp down, then the rest of the hose going to the heater box can give and flex, and not rub anywhere on the support bracket.
Anyhoo, that's my opinion of how it should be done.
Bill's bracket looks great and is a great guide for anyone that wants to build their own.
Finally got a chance to install the ReBilld bracket on my truck.
What was left of the Ford original piece:
And the ReBilld bracket:
A couple of further suggestions - shorten the vertical part of the bracket by about a half inch, but only move the holes for the clamping bolts down about 1/4 inch. This would provide additional hood clearance (it's kind of close on my truck). Also, extend the short part of the bracket rearward by about 1/2 inch (you could do both at once by changing the point at which you bend it) to allow for socket access to the alternator bolt with the clamp bolts in place.
Thanks for the feedback on the bracket, it looks good and should last much longer than the original.
I was noticing there seems to be another option, and that would be changing water pump to the IH type. I noticed the engine pictures Glenn (oldbird1965) has posted does not show a hose there at all, so it must be rerouted on the IH water pump.
Last edited by richdawg; Feb 25, 2013 at 01:50 AM.
Reason: change image
Thanks for the feedback on the bracket, it looks good and should last much longer than the original.
I was noticing there seems to be another option, and that would be changing water pump to the IH type. I noticed the engine pictures Glenn (oldbird1965) has posted does not show a hose there at all, so it must be rerouted on the IH water pump.
Hi! Just found this thread and was wondering if you did in fact make some of these brackets. I have a Ford 1997 F350 7.3L Diesel . Bracket is broke! Thanks for any help. Bill from WYO
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