So I'm in the process of replacing my bent-up compressor wheel.

Confirmed that yes, the turbo needs to come out of the truck. At a minimum, the 4th compressor cover bolt is at the very bottom, hiding behind the head and a wiring connector. Turbo is now out of truck, and warmup valve is off. Long time to get to this point... and I've had the turbo out once before.

So here's the question... how does the compressor cover come off? I have all four cover bolts off, have tapped and pried some on the lugs, it only rotated a tiny bit on the back plate. There's quite a bit of factory sealant that hasn't broken free, so it will take some force.

Is the cover simply pushed straight on, or is it threaded? If threaded, it is conventional right-hand threads, counter-clockwise to loosen? If pushed straight on, should I try to spin the cover on the back plate to break the sealant? Or do something else? I figure I'll ask before I have to order a new turbo.

During this maintenance down-period, I already replaced the driver's side glow plugs and under-valve-cover wiring harnes. I did the passenger side about a month ago; all 4 plugs on that side were dead. Only 1 of the driver's side was dead, but figured they should get done too. While the intake is disassembled for working on the turbo, I'm also going to drill the intercooler outlet pipe for water-methanol injectors. Full system installation gets done this winter, along with a new home-built aluminum bed with side boxes. 115" x 79" bed, 88" boxes have 84" bottom doors for kayak paddles. Boxes will let me get tools, parts, fluids, jack, shovel, tow strap, rope, saw, etc. out from under the back seat. 2nd spare tire gets mounted on the bulkhead offset to passenger side, water/methanol tank goes there also. Yes, there will be pictures at some point.

 

use a heat gun and heat the seam up. its got RTV in there so once its heated up, it will come loose.

You can just twist on it and it should come loose.

 

Thanks, that's the info I need. If I'm not sure, I prefer to ask before applying more force. Some things don't respond well to "bigger hammer" thinking.

Apply some heat to the housing, and twist the housing relative to the back plate to break the RTV seal.

All the M8x1.25 threads on the housings and bolts on turbine & compressor sides are getting chased before reassembly.

 

Any of the hot parts, use antisieze as well!

I had extra parts laying around and no tap, so I made a tap using one of the spare bolts I had. Just cut some slots on it and used some fluid and a drill.

I had one of them that wouldn't seat right into the exhaust because of rust.
Fixed that issue.

If the turbo has never been dissasembled, it's got the ford grey silicone on it, and that stuff is tough!!!!!!!!

Get that turbo clamped down so you can provide a bit of force while heating it up. I remember it being hard the first time.

When I re-assembled mine I put RTV on it but didn't use a whole lot.
When I took it apart again after that, I never actually re-sealed it. I just broke it loose.
You'll have to clean the flange to get it re-assembled with the ford grey RTV on there though.

 

Well, --I've-- never had the compressor cover off, and the sealant is dark silvery-gray. I'm presuming it's never been disassembled.

The next question is whether I want to gut the EBPV while I can get to everything.

 

Get rid of it. =)

Cut the cylinder off the pedestal and have the holes capped over.