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Interior floor pics after downpipe install?

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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #1  
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Interior floor pics after downpipe install?

Does anyone have interior floorboard pics taken after the pinch weld has been modified for clearance for a downpipe installation?

Thanks!!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #2  
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Your interior floor shouldn't look any different. You shouldn't have to bend it that much to make your interior floor look any different.

Red
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 06:09 PM
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Yeah, its all under neath. you just get that metal flap folded over and your good to go. wont ever notice inside.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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Call me ****, but if you saw the overall great and near bone-stock condition that the previous owner kept this truck in you too would wince at smushing and smashing the aluminum insulation blanket just to bend the steel underneath it.

This truck has an aluminum insulation blanket on the firewall that covers the offending pinch weld. Removing the insulation blanket without removing the engine appears to be impossible.

My thought is to cut the few inches of the protruding seam by cutting the necessary area of the floorboard/firewall from the inside. I have the patience and can McGyver the tools to do it, just need to know where to provide the clearance.

Pictures from the interior or even from the underside of installed downpipes are greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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Oh man, your making to big of deal out of this. If you don't want to remove that blanket do what I do, use a porta power and just shove it in. No cutting necessary!
 
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 06:30 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Oh man, your making to big of deal out of this. If you don't want to remove that blanket do what I do, use a porta power and just shove it in. No cutting necessary!
You may be right. I still hate to mush up the blanket doing so.

I'll put some big-boy undies on and take another look.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #7  
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Tearing into the floor will be a lot more disruptive than mushing up the blanket. All you're doing is making more cuts, and thus introducing more places for rust to form.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #8  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by madpogue
Tearing into the floor will be a lot more disruptive than mushing up the blanket. All you're doing is making more cuts, and thus introducing more places for rust to form.
Totally agree with that. Here are some pics for you:

 
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by LeoJr
Call me ****, but if you saw the overall great and near bone-stock condition that the previous owner kept this truck in you too would wince at smushing and smashing the aluminum insulation blanket just to bend the steel underneath it.

This truck has an aluminum insulation blanket on the firewall that covers the offending pinch weld. Removing the insulation blanket without removing the engine appears to be impossible.

My thought is to cut the few inches of the protruding seam by cutting the necessary area of the floorboard/firewall from the inside. I have the patience and can McGyver the tools to do it, just need to know where to provide the clearance.

Pictures from the interior or even from the underside of installed downpipes are greatly appreciated!
The first and only time I installed a down pipe I had some of the same concerns you are having. The BFH didn't work well for me (couldn't get enough swing) a pry bar really didn't fit well enough to get the leverage I needed, I didn't have a porta power or access to one, but porta power would be the way to go. I wound up pushing the firewall enough to clear the fire wall with a sizzer jack from the trunk of and old Taurus. It was difficult to turn but I got the clearance needed and I haven't had any trouble with it rubbing or rattling. It could be the reason some have more trouble is the way the cab is positioned during assembly, a little further back on some and others may be more forward to give less clearance. I had very minimal dammage to the insulation blanket.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 10:49 PM
  #10  
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Thanks RÖENTGEEP, the pics help. And the other's input as well...many thanks!

The blanket comes down to, and doesn't cover the lip as I remembered. I see now how this can be bent without the damage I was worried about.

But the thin aluminum sheet that has staples in it does wrap upwards over the lip and is riveted to the lip. I can remove the rivets, bend the lip and reattach the sheet.

Does the replacement down pipe follow the stock routing so the focus is to make clearance for a hypothetical stock pipe that was round instead of flat?





 

Last edited by LeoJr; Dec 21, 2012 at 11:07 PM. Reason: spelun
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #11  
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Wink

Originally Posted by LeoJr
Thanks RÖENTGEEP, the pics help. And the other's input as well...many thanks!

The blanket comes down to, and doesn't cover the lip as I remembered. I see now how this can be bent without the damage I was worried about.

But the thin aluminum sheet that has staples in it does wrap upwards over the lip and is riveted to the lip. I can remove the rivets, bend the lip and reattach the sheet.

Does the replacement down pipe follow the stock routing so the focus is to make clearance for a hypothetical stock pipe that was round instead of flat?


You are welcome.
Yes to that question.

 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #12  
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Did you get your pipe installed?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 06:18 PM
  #13  
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Well its good to know there was supposed to be a blanket there...mine was missing
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Oh man, your making to big of deal out of this. If you don't want to remove that blanket do what I do, use a porta power and just shove it in. No cutting necessary!
I used a porta power and still had to cut the heatshield junk. That stuff is STRONG.
 
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