Im putting new injectors into my truck this week and scene something about Rev X oil additives and fuel additives. They say that it helps with lubrication and really helps with cold starts which would be a plus because i am from upstate NY. Is anyone using any of these products?

 

You probably won't need it after installing the new injectors. It does work, but there are lower cost alternatives (Archoil 9100). I recommend you use the search function and do some reading on both.

 

Thanks for the information. I was only thinking about using it to prevent any damage to my new injectors

 

The new injectors might work ok while new, but to keep them that way with our modern ULSD (dry) fuel you definitely should consider an additive to the fuel. Spicer? tested additives in the fuel to get lubricity up for standard per manufacturer. Results were notable. Discussed about everywhere including this board. Reading on other makes, many run the 3wc tech 2cycle oil with diesel kleen for the cetane. (I do for the low cost) I had bad injectors and found the 3wc an amazing improvement. Had a TDI guy add to help his. Learned additives are added at the station so vary. truckstops are rumored to be dryer than most?
google "ulsd lubricity test"

 

Ever since i had the truck ive always ran the ford diesel additive. I use the cetane booster in the summer in the winter i mix it 50/50 with their anti gel formula

 

Stiction is not a result of "damage" and RevX wil not prevent stiction from eventually occuring.

 

What do you mean by stiction? Can anything help with that? Do u recommend doing anything to prolong injector life and lubricity?

 

I thought that I saw somewhere that Ford had something to
add to the HPOP reservoir after you installed new injectors.
Or was that just someones selling hype?

Sean

 

Stiction = static friction (Stiction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) and has nothing to do with the fuel side of the injector. Typical 6.0 injector failures are from OIL related failures due to stiction in the spool valve, not from a lack of lubricity of the fuel.

 

yep. to the OP, i'd use rotella T6 oil, changing it at 5,000 mile
intervals... i don't have cold temps where i live, but yesterday
morning was 37 degrees F, and the van started in half a second
of cranking, and runs just like it always does.

 

most people on here use diesel kleen. it's important you DON'T use
a product that emulsifies water. the OEM fuel filter is what you
should be using, and draining the water tap regularly. diesel kleen
is what i'd be using in your situation.

upstate NY? using the block heater with a timer to turn it on two
hours before you leave in the morning is my suggestion. i'd also
use a battery minder 12248 hard wired into the car, so the batteries
are fully charged and ready to rock. for the money, this charger
exceeds anything else i've found.

 

I always use OEM filters and Ford oil when i change filters and oil. Oil is done every 5,000 miles and fuel filters are every 10,000 miles. I do plug it in when able too. When it's it my garage it doesn't get plugged in because the GFCI outlet can't handle it

 

GFCI outlet can't handle it

That tells me that you may want to get the DMM out and start probing the cord
for the heater. You are most likely leaking some voltage somewhere in
along line. unplug the cord and test it this way. Set the meter to the highest
resistance range ie M ohms. You then test the plug on the truck to the frame
of the truck use a clean place. ONLY one of the pins should read any resistance
and that will be your ground pin. The other two should read as open/infinity.
If you get a reading then that is why the GFCI is tripping and you SHOULD
get that fixed or run the risk of shocking someone to death.
If on the other hand your tripping because of the amp draw then you need
to replace that plug wit ha 15 Amp GFCI. It should not be tripping with the
block heater on it.

Sean

 

I tough stiction was some kind on sticking due to contamination. Is it only the 6.0 injectors that have problem with stiction? Could we see an improve injector some time in future?

 

hydraulic stiction or stiction as we here call it is do to stuff that sticks
to the control valve surfaces and causes an increase in the initial effort
that a valve requires to move it or a reduction in the initial speed it moves at.
To properly fix this type of problem you would have to have some type of
solvent that will remove the stuff that is on the valve parts. Some thing that
is strong enough to do this would move than likely eat vital engine prats.
Also you may remove it in chunks that will go and plug on smaller orifices
and the very small clearances inside of the injector. Your getting down to the
2 Microns in size on the fuel side and about 20 Microns on the engine oil side. So to
disassemble an injector and clean it you would have to have a clean room so it
did not make it worse. What is happening is some thing in the oil/fuel is depositing
in the injector on the walls and causing the problems. I don't know on what side
this is happening but if it's the oil that could explain why some people have not
had it happen do to the type of oil. Her is the big debate of dino vs syn oils.

Anyone running a full synthetic oil had to deal with stiction? I think this would
make for an interesting poll topic.

Sean