Widow-makers
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 1
We chained the heck out of ours. Then we set them outside and flat on open ground. I unscrewed the cores, without putting my skull in harm's way, and walked away until they equilibrated. Then off of the rims they came. .
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 661
Likes: 0
I know this does not help but I bought six new tires for my rims, I wish that I had just bough new rims but too late now, I had a couple that needed new tubes after the fact and took them down to the local tire shop the other day and had them change them out, no bubbles no troubles, he told me that once the lock ring was on their would not be an issue.
They are sitting out in my driveway right now with new G.Years mounted on them awaiting installation with about 80 psi of pressure so I guess if you guys stop hearing from me than you will at least know why
They are sitting out in my driveway right now with new G.Years mounted on them awaiting installation with about 80 psi of pressure so I guess if you guys stop hearing from me than you will at least know why
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 84
From: Utah
I know this does not help but I bought six new tires for my rims, I wish that I had just bough new rims but too late now, I had a couple that needed new tubes after the fact and took them down to the local tire shop the other day and had them change them out, no bubbles no troubles, he told me that once the lock ring was on their would not be an issue.
They are sitting out in my driveway right now with new G.Years mounted on them awaiting installation with about 80 psi of pressure so I guess if you guys stop hearing from me than you will at least know why
They are sitting out in my driveway right now with new G.Years mounted on them awaiting installation with about 80 psi of pressure so I guess if you guys stop hearing from me than you will at least know why
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: central texas
wm and split rims..
yes they are a hazard to use and work on… they usually had problems if a tire pressure dropped while loaded and rolling down the highway… and the most dangerous situation refilling the tire/wheel with air.. be sure to cage em during that process.
during my youth, i had to service those wheels… they usually weighed more than i did…you get good sized arms doing the work..
if we saw any damage to the rim or the ring. we wouldn't remount a tire… sorry you need a new rim. $$$$$… the tire/rim came off the rig, before letting the air out. as a pressure change could make em blow the ring off…
i was so glad to see the change to a ring less rim…. the new style rims made it harder to change tires, but it was so much safer… we still used the cage during inflation… just in case a rim failed… 160 lbs pressure inside a defective rim will make for a bad day….
cc
ps: the ring is placed on the inside or top of the rims, the rim mounting lug bolt holes and wheel center, are offset to be even with the wheel rim.. the deep dish is the outside or bottom of the rim…
front tires / rims are considered to be mounted inside out.. as mag wheels at that time had the deep dish to the outside…..
during my youth, i had to service those wheels… they usually weighed more than i did…you get good sized arms doing the work..
if we saw any damage to the rim or the ring. we wouldn't remount a tire… sorry you need a new rim. $$$$$… the tire/rim came off the rig, before letting the air out. as a pressure change could make em blow the ring off…
i was so glad to see the change to a ring less rim…. the new style rims made it harder to change tires, but it was so much safer… we still used the cage during inflation… just in case a rim failed… 160 lbs pressure inside a defective rim will make for a bad day….
cc
ps: the ring is placed on the inside or top of the rims, the rim mounting lug bolt holes and wheel center, are offset to be even with the wheel rim.. the deep dish is the outside or bottom of the rim…
front tires / rims are considered to be mounted inside out.. as mag wheels at that time had the deep dish to the outside…..
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 446
From: Central Illinois
First, welcome to the group. Glad to have you and glad to see an F-3 being brought back to health. To keep the stock hub caps you have four options:
First option is to find a set of 16" F-2 /250 wheels that were used '48 until at least 1957 (based on my references, but probably later). At some point after that they only used the wheels with the outer nubs. The wheels are K-H part number 31282/Ford number 7RD 1015B. These are probably the most readily available option.
Second option is to find a set of the 17.5" x 5.25" wheels that were first offered on F-250s in 1956. These are either Budd #70720 or #73240. Both look exactly alike to my eye. The Ford number is B6D 1015A. Budd lists them in their catalog through 1979.
Third option, and best option, is to find a set of the tubeless 19.5" x 5.25" wheels first offered in 1956 and used by Ford through 1966. The latest Budd reference I have lists them through 1972. They are Budd #71410 or Ford #B6D 1015B.
These tubeless wheels were also used by Dodge and Studebaker, so that you have additional sources for them.
Fourth option is to have your 17" centers pulled and remounted into drop center 17" rims. Stockton Wheel has done these and they look really good. Stu
First option is to find a set of 16" F-2 /250 wheels that were used '48 until at least 1957 (based on my references, but probably later). At some point after that they only used the wheels with the outer nubs. The wheels are K-H part number 31282/Ford number 7RD 1015B. These are probably the most readily available option.
Second option is to find a set of the 17.5" x 5.25" wheels that were first offered on F-250s in 1956. These are either Budd #70720 or #73240. Both look exactly alike to my eye. The Ford number is B6D 1015A. Budd lists them in their catalog through 1979.
Third option, and best option, is to find a set of the tubeless 19.5" x 5.25" wheels first offered in 1956 and used by Ford through 1966. The latest Budd reference I have lists them through 1972. They are Budd #71410 or Ford #B6D 1015B.
These tubeless wheels were also used by Dodge and Studebaker, so that you have additional sources for them.
Fourth option is to have your 17" centers pulled and remounted into drop center 17" rims. Stockton Wheel has done these and they look really good. Stu
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New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3
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From: Conrath, WI
Widow Makers
Stu, I have two 48 F4s. I am using them as farm market trucks. The one truck has good rubber on original 18" WM rims. So far I'm driving it as is. I was hoping to restore the other truck with the similar wheels and rubber. Has anyone ever taken the centers out of the original rims and welded them into a newer style rim that has a similar tire profile? I'm not doing too well in finding alternative rims.
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 446
From: Central Illinois
Stu, I have two 48 F4s. I am using them as farm market trucks. The one truck has good rubber on original 18" WM rims. So far I'm driving it as is. I was hoping to restore the other truck with the similar wheels and rubber. Has anyone ever taken the centers out of the original rims and welded them into a newer style rim that has a similar tire profile? I'm not doing too well in finding alternative rims.
Won't work. You'd never get the tire beads to stretch over the rim lip without tearing up the tire. Stu
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
Out of curiosity, how available are the original tires compared to modern radials?
IE: would original WM's be obsoleted based on the simple fact you can't get an equivalent tire for it?
IE: would original WM's be obsoleted based on the simple fact you can't get an equivalent tire for it?
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I'm new to this but I was lucky enough to spot a old chassis at work with 17", 8 stud rims on and they fit my 49 F3. The center needed to be machined out about 1/16" and on the rear I'm going to use a 11/2" wheel sparer to pack it out to clear the splash rim on the rear axle. I haven't installed them yet but everything should fit and look original. The donor chassis was two wheel drive from around 1956'. Sorry that's all I know about it . But rims are out there that fit. Rosco
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 446
From: Central Illinois
Yeah, they've been discussed here before. They are Kelsey Hayes products used on Chevies and GMCs or that era, any of three part numbers (29572 for a 5" rim, 30013 for a 5" rim, or 30169 for a 6" rim). All used the Firestone/Kelsey-Hayes "AR" three piece rim which consists of a main rim, large "side ring", and small locking ring. There was a new style and old style "AR" which I'll post pictures of below. The modification you describe is only required on the rear of a Ford since the hub is too big for the stock wheel's center hole. They fit a front just fine, I've got one I use on parts trucks to roll them around.
These are not really very desirable wheels. Even the Chevy guys try to be rid of them. Much better alternatives are the 17.5" or 19.5" tubeless styles that came out in '56. But, in your example, sounds like the price was right. Stu
New style:
Old style:
These are not really very desirable wheels. Even the Chevy guys try to be rid of them. Much better alternatives are the 17.5" or 19.5" tubeless styles that came out in '56. But, in your example, sounds like the price was right. Stu
New style:
Old style: