Waiting for some parts to finish my gauges and so need to get this done. Can anyone here look over what I have and help me to understand the RIGHT way to do this so I do no damage.

Everytime I look on-line there is a different method and it seems everyone has a slightly different set-up.

Here are the pertinent pages ( I think ) from my wiring harness manufacturers manual <table id="ncode_imageresizer_warning_1" class="ncode_imageresizer_warning" width="400"><tbody><tr><td class="td1" width="20"></td><td class="td2">Click this bar to view the full image.</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table id="ncode_imageresizer_warning_2" class="ncode_imageresizer_warning" width="400"><tbody><tr><td class="td1" width="20"></td><td class="td2">Click this bar to view the full image.</td></tr></tbody></table>

As you can see the manufacturer of my harness only provides two wires, a # 14 and a # 15.

I see according to the diagram that # 14 goes into the I position of regulator and the # 15 goes into the A section and then doubles back or pigtails off to also go to the Batt. lug as it would appear on my Alt.

I have 5 lugs on the rear of my
Duralast/Alternator (DL7078)


Lug positioning looks similar as the diagram given above except for the extra lug which they do not show on diagram.



Lugs are marked Bat, Sta, Fld and grd and lastly no markings



I was able to get the factory pigtails from the regulators at salvage yard <table id="ncode_imageresizer_warning_3" class="ncode_imageresizer_warning" width="400"><tbody><tr><td class="td1" width="20"></td><td class="td2">Click this bar to view the full image.</td></tr></tbody></table> and the pigtails are different in that it would appear that I and A are linked together already within the pigtail.



They both have this condenser looking deal coming off of one of the wires, whats that all about. I do not know what this is for.



The pigtails do not match in that one of them has a wire coming out of the S position and the other does not.



I am thoroughly confused. Please help me to understand how to wire all of this together. Thanks

 

Ford officially had two different ways to wire their alternators. One way is when they used a "gen" light in the dash, and the other way is when they did not use a "gen" light, but used a ammeter type gauge instead.

That's why you are seeing differences in the Ford harness.

I see in your wire description instructions, wire #14 "originates from the fuse panel". Is that really where it comes from? Does this harness you have use a "gen" light in the dash? Do you want a "gen" light in the dash, or are you going to use a voltmeter? Answer these questions and we can get it wired up correctly.

 

Yes, the small cans are condensers, they suppress alternator whine in the radio.

 

I was able to find a plug today ( with a brand new regulator attached as a bonus ) with all 4 wires coming out in separate designated areas ( IASF ) so that made it much easier for me to figure out.

I did it exactly like this diagram showed. I have read here that once I am able to find an electric choke kit for my carb ( autolite 2100 2 Brl ) I can connect it to the S terminal on the regulator. I then read on another post here that was a big no no so maybe I can maybe I cant at this point ?

As far as I know that is where it comes from, if you would like ( if you are curious ) I would be more than happy to scan entire booklet ( only 10-15 pages I guess ) and post it here. Lots of good info and they did make it pretty simple.

They mention gauge on the instrument section, I dont know anything else about what it might be made u for. I hope I have it right!

 

I was wondering where this little suppressor was, thanks

 

If you are not going to use a idiot light(gen or alt dash light) I would wire it up like this. It's much simpler, and it works. I know you found a plug with all the wires, but you do not really need the "I" terminal if you are not going to use a dash light.

 

why bother with an out-dated and fire-prone externally regulated unit when you can easily swap to a newer 3g alternator with internal regulator and much higher output... the only wires you have to figure out for such a unit are a battery hot and the indicator light - thats easy as can be, i've done the swap several times in different rigs

 

Thanks for that, I will print this and save for future reference. If I would have known than I would have done it this way.

 

Because of money restraints I have too work with what I have although I did consider this

 

I want to disagree a little bit with this. The older units were solid good performers, no fire risk or anything like that. They held up well, and they also fit all the older bracket configurations of the older engines. What they have against them is lower amp output, and a little bit more wiring than some like to deal with.

The newer alternators do have more output, and have a integrated regulator, and if you need that much power are good units. But they do need retro-fitting/bracket work to install on a older engine. And it's a well known fact now that plenty of these have been installed on the older v-belt configurations, that you cannot use the full output of the 130 amp 3g units with a single v-belt. You have to use dual v-belts or convert to a serpentine setup.

Everything has a plus and a minus. It's whatever your priorities are.

 

I have read here that once I am able to find an electric choke kit for my carb ( autolite 2100 2 Brl ) I can connect it to the S terminal on the regulator. I then read on another post here that was a big no no so can anyone clarify this for me.

Is it ok to do this or not reccomended?

 

The factory-installed chokes were connected to the alternator stator which puts out ~7 volts IIRC. If you use an aftermarket electric choke designed for 12V, it'll be a bit slower to warm up if connected that way.

 

Thanks for the info

 

Word this setup still work if I delete the choke wire?

 

You need to be more specific... would *what* setup still work? You're jumping into a 3 yo thread in which multiple topics were discussed... best thing to do is start your own, brand-new thread.