Time for some HIDs
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
thanks!! appreciate the links B&L!!
any pointers on doing this that u learned and could help me?
also, when u bake the lights at 265 in the oven.. how do u go about doing that? do u wrap them or lay them on something? i dont understand how they dont melt..
and how long did this whole project take you?
any pointers on doing this that u learned and could help me?
also, when u bake the lights at 265 in the oven.. how do u go about doing that? do u wrap them or lay them on something? i dont understand how they dont melt..
and how long did this whole project take you?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
thanks!! appreciate the links B&L!!
any pointers on doing this that u learned and could help me?
also, when u bake the lights at 265 in the oven.. how do u go about doing that? do u wrap them or lay them on something? i dont understand how they dont melt..
and how long did this whole project take you?
any pointers on doing this that u learned and could help me?
also, when u bake the lights at 265 in the oven.. how do u go about doing that? do u wrap them or lay them on something? i dont understand how they dont melt..
and how long did this whole project take you?
Just put them in the oven on a rack. They won't melt. They are hot when you take them out though!
About a year lol. I had them in my garage for months before I got around to it. Actual time was about 2 weeks. I spent a solid weekend in the garage and a few evenings. The biggest part of that time was coming up with the design and plan, and learning by trial and error. If I had to do it again, I'd say I could do it in a day, maybe two, because you do have to wait on things to dry/cure.
It really isn't a difficult job if you've got some mechanical know how, some ingenuity and a Dremel tool.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
I went with the Apollo shrouds.
The wiring harness is unique to each make/model and will be specified for you, but it's the bi-xenon system for H13 bulbs. TRS makes the wiring harnesses themselves for each kit. I went with Morimoto ballasts and OEM Phillips bulbs.
The wiring harness is unique to each make/model and will be specified for you, but it's the bi-xenon system for H13 bulbs. TRS makes the wiring harnesses themselves for each kit. I went with Morimoto ballasts and OEM Phillips bulbs.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: FLG AZ
B&L,
Started the retrofit with TRS gear today. Removing the grill and the headlight assemblies was easy. Disassembling the headlights is a different story. Appears the adhesive used by Ford is not one that is softening up at the 265 degrees, it still behaves like silicon caulk at that temp. I resorted to using various implements of distruction to remove as much as possible, then a heat gun (sparingly) to get that last bit to give up it's grip. Half way through the first light and thinking... Hmm... glad I'm not planning on driving anywhere soon. Any hints on getting these things apart? Thanks!
Started the retrofit with TRS gear today. Removing the grill and the headlight assemblies was easy. Disassembling the headlights is a different story. Appears the adhesive used by Ford is not one that is softening up at the 265 degrees, it still behaves like silicon caulk at that temp. I resorted to using various implements of distruction to remove as much as possible, then a heat gun (sparingly) to get that last bit to give up it's grip. Half way through the first light and thinking... Hmm... glad I'm not planning on driving anywhere soon. Any hints on getting these things apart? Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 9,544
Likes: 43
B&L,
Started the retrofit with TRS gear today. Removing the grill and the headlight assemblies was easy. Disassembling the headlights is a different story. Appears the adhesive used by Ford is not one that is softening up at the 265 degrees, it still behaves like silicon caulk at that temp. I resorted to using various implements of distruction to remove as much as possible, then a heat gun (sparingly) to get that last bit to give up it's grip. Half way through the first light and thinking... Hmm... glad I'm not planning on driving anywhere soon. Any hints on getting these things apart? Thanks!
Started the retrofit with TRS gear today. Removing the grill and the headlight assemblies was easy. Disassembling the headlights is a different story. Appears the adhesive used by Ford is not one that is softening up at the 265 degrees, it still behaves like silicon caulk at that temp. I resorted to using various implements of distruction to remove as much as possible, then a heat gun (sparingly) to get that last bit to give up it's grip. Half way through the first light and thinking... Hmm... glad I'm not planning on driving anywhere soon. Any hints on getting these things apart? Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
This is BY FAR the worst part of the process lol.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: FLG AZ
Ok, first headlight assembly is apart, marked the wall with the cutoff from the Halogen bulb, cut the reflector and test fit the projector. Only problem is the projector pattern is significantly different than the Halogen. Instructions are not clear on exactly what I'm suppose to be lining up. Any thoughts out there? Sure appreciate the help since TRS isn't available till tomorrow.
Photo below shows halogen on left and HID on right. Ignore the far right piece of tape.
Photo below shows halogen on left and HID on right. Ignore the far right piece of tape.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: FLG AZ
2nd, true, I've not yet epoxied. I'm trying to determine exactly what the "Cutoff" alignment is supposed to be. My concern is that the Halagen seems to cutoff down to the right while the projector is UP to the right.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
All projectors cut off up and to the right.
You will have up/down adjustment with the stock adjustment screw. The tops of the cut offs on both projectors should be level, and the bottom lines should be level as well, and 2-3" below perfectly horizontal with the center of the projector at 25 ft away.
The critical thing to be sure of before you epoxy anything is the right/left alignment, that can't be adjusted after the fact. Essentially the base of the cut off point should be directly in front of the headlight. Move them forward and backward, if the aiming point moves to either side, they're not straight.
Do a Google search on aiming them, there's TONS of info out there.
You will have up/down adjustment with the stock adjustment screw. The tops of the cut offs on both projectors should be level, and the bottom lines should be level as well, and 2-3" below perfectly horizontal with the center of the projector at 25 ft away.
The critical thing to be sure of before you epoxy anything is the right/left alignment, that can't be adjusted after the fact. Essentially the base of the cut off point should be directly in front of the headlight. Move them forward and backward, if the aiming point moves to either side, they're not straight.
Do a Google search on aiming them, there's TONS of info out there.