Howdy all,

I am usually on the slick forum with my 1966 F100 but have been lurking on here for a while as well. I have my 66 torn down to the frame for a complete rebuild. In the meantime I have found that I still need a truck to chase parts and do other assorted truck duties. So about a month or so ago I started shopping for another pick up. I came across this 1969 F250 Camper Special on craigslist offered by my local pick n pull. went down and took a look at (3 Times). On the third trip down, I bought it! It has a (I Think) a 390-4 barrel with a C6. Runs decent but needs a little work. The rockers are tapping but that could be due to the low oil level. It also has a missfire about every 12 seconds, especially under a load. Been a while since I have had an FE but I figure I can figure it out with the collective knowledge on here.

Here a few pics:

 

Wow! I must admit that I'm jealous.....and very happy for you. It's so cool that this dandy old truck found a good home with you. It's as if it were a stray dog at a shelter needing a home, and you came by and adopted it.

It reminds me very much of my story, and the truck I got a couple months ago. Good for you!

Bob

 

nice score ! now try not make this one a full project ..lol

 

Thanks Guys....No, This one will not be a project. It is going to be used as a it was intended, a truck. And yes I did rescue this one. It was going to be put in the yard today if it wasn't sold by the end of the weekend. Just couldn't let that happen.

 

super nice score for $1k

 

Sweet looking truck. Especially for that price.

Jim

 

What a steal for $1K!! At least compared to us rust belt guys! Dents are easier to fix then rust.

 

Yep, 1083.75 to be exact. But since it was purchased through a salvage yard I have to do a brake and light inspection with the CHP as well as having it weighed to determine fees owed to the DMV. I wasn't planning on even buying a truck until after the first of the year but didn't want to see this one crushed not to mention the price. So, I figure I will take a couple weeks to get the fees together and repair the issues it has with the tapping rockers and misfire.

Anyone have any ideas what could cause the engine to misfire about every 12 seconds and it gets worse under a load when in gear? I can't hear any bottom end knocking. But that doesn't mean anything.

 

Could be weak plug wires, that are crossfiring. Time for a tune up. Though that tapping could be some bent valves or other odd problem. Likely why it was dumped off at scrap yard. PO didn't want to pour money into it.

When I bought my '67 years ago, someone had swapped two plug wires on cap(forget which two now, they were side by side), but it would not run over 35 mph without bucking and carrying on. I never thought to check firing order, but after tinkering for a week and not finding it I finally though..>Hmmmm. Yup, two wires were swapped. Moved them back and it purred like a kitten.

 

Some good first steps to check on. I will just do a tune up on it when I pick it up on Wednesday. She was about 2 qts. low so I am hoping that helps the chattering.

 

Time to do complete fluid, gnd. connection, sparkplug wirer checks etc. If you go to JY again I would be on the look out for new sparkplugs, wirers, etc. Seems most people do a tune up before getting rid of the old girl. I like to add marvel mystery oil to the gas and oil to help clean her out.

I think Hio Silver has a good complete check up list some where. Maybe he could re-post it if he reads this.

 

Greetings...So ya just got a new-to-you rig. Cool.

Here's what I do to every new-to-me vehicle. Doing some of these simple steps when looking at a vehicle to buy can also reveal stuff the seller may not tell ya.:

Preserve Sanity.
Grab a trash bag and a small box… trash and garbage goes in the bag and any spare parts goes into the box. The owners manual and, if present, fuses goes in the glove box.
Powerwash the body, wheel wells, and even the engine compartment.
Vacuum it out.
.....Cleanliness is next to…. and I'd rather work on a clean rig.

Basic Visual Inspection
Grab a note pad and do a bumper to bumper visual inspection.. this is also time to go on “Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
On the notepad make three columns/categories:

1. Gotta fix/replace now.. these include safety items like lights and brakes, cab mounts;
2. Gotta fix/upgrade/replace soon or “The Watch List” – floor pans.; and,
3. Fix later – rust holes, old wiper blades, loose ***** and switches.

Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bellhousing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.

Fluid Check
You’re just doing this so ya don’t burn anything up and the fluids will be replaced later.
Engine oil, coolant, auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. If possible, front and rear axle lube, T-case, and gear lube in a manual trans.
Air up the tires and the spare.

Hardware Check (Bumper to Bumper)
With a screwdriver, sockets, and wrenches, double-check the tightness of everything that is easily accessible.
Torque the lug nuts.
Tighten hose clamps in the engine compartment.
Mechanical fan bolts, valve cover, exhaust manifold, brackets, seat brackets, steering wheel, hood hinges,... even the license plates. Everything.
Double-check spark plugs and seat the plug wires. I like to also verify the firing order.

Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure... gotta have some pedal.
Turn on the ignition system (no engine start). Turn on everything - blower motor, exterior and interior lights, turn signals, hazards, heater controls, wipers, etc.

Engine Start
With a fire extinguisher at the ready, fire it up, to let’er cook.
Verify that the thermostat works by leaving off the rad cap. You’ll see the coolant flowing which is an indication that the thermostat had indeed opened.
Take it for a test drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops.
Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats.
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.

Full Tune Up (to establish a baseline)
Rebuild the carburetor!!!
Replace points, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
Change the engine oil and oil filter.
Change coolant, axle gear lube, transmission, & T-case lube.
Replace air and fuel filter
Set timing, dwell, and idle speeds.
Bleed and change brake fluid.
Replace all the drive belts and at least the radiator hoses.
Take a grease gun and service all grease fittings.
Lube door latches, locks, tailgate latches, door hinges, etc.
...load-check the battery and replace if necessary.

 

LOW IDLE RPM on the FE engines can cause a tapping . my 68 had this P.O had idle at 500

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

70-360fe - I have seen that where people put new stuff on the car and then it ends up in the yard a week later. Have scored a few good parts that way.

HIO Silver. Excellent Task list you have put together. I have a similar list myself. I also hate working on a dirty rig. Very rarely do I buy a vehicle on the first visit to see it.

Mike, The Fe is tapping at all idle speeds. I am hoping its just low oil level. I will know more tomorrow when I get her home.

Here's a link to my 66 F100 Project. This is why I had to buy another truck. I "needed" it. At least that's what I told my wife

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-waiting.html

 

That's what I like about J/K never know what you will find. Wish I didn't ask about HIO's list there is a few things on there I have to check. Good check list!