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Help a brotha out!!

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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #1  
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Bandaid dude
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Help a brotha out!!

I have a late 99' 7.3l. The last couple of times i cold weather she has been a little hard to start but she would start after cycling the glow plugs a few times..would cough out what I believe to be black smoke..but looking at the threads here, possibly white smoke.
Ok, so it was like 9 degree's out.. she started..went into high idle..then as I was driving down the road she lost all power..I could barely limp it back home..looking on here it sounds like I lost one bank of injectors..I was able to start it back up to limp it down to the hiway where I was going to have it towed home..While waiting for 5 hrs for the tow.I tried to start it and at least make it to the bar if I was going to have to wait that long..she wouldn't start back up..the rpm gauge moves..and she belching white smoke out the pipe..I have no idea which side is not firing so I removed the valve cover on the easy side..did the .25 cent fix and she still will not fire..she sounds like she wants to but won't..Should I head over to the passenger side and look at the harness or?? My gut feeling is I have a couple of issue's.
I have a friend that has one of those Snap On Scanner's..but don't know how I will have to wait till I can use it..Is this raising any "I know what it is" flags!!

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!

I always have found..it you have a problem..a thousand other people have the same problem..So, help a brotha out!! Ha!!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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You've got to make sure the batteries are up to the task...are they charged? If not, start with that. Then with charged batteries, turn the key to on but don't try to start it. Take a screwdriver and jump the two large posts on the glow plug relay (GPR) for about a minute. Then try to start the truck. Perhaps your GPR has gone belly-up and the glow plugs are not receiving current when you turn the key on. 9 degrees in Lincoln, CA ???
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 06:41 PM
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Tailgate77478
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Yes, you should check the 2nd side. It very well could be the harness needing a 25 cent mod.

Don't forget, if it's that cold out, these trucks want to have the engine block heater plugged in. If it wasn't plugged in, don't drive it until your operating temp comes up. At the top of this forum, there is an "Articles" sticky, inside there is a whole list of "Hard No/Start" threads, which is very common during cold season.

Nine degrees??? Did you have any anti-gelling additive in your fuel? You sure it's simply not due to the cold?

What was your fuel tank at when this happened? Was it below 1/4 tank? If so, you could have a clogged screen in your tank, or more likely...a broken pickup foot. Mine broke when it got really cold out, as plastic gets brittle when old and cold. If you were close to empty when this happened, fill her back up to at least 1/4 tank, prime the fuel system a few times before starting, then start it. You'll have to bleed the air out of the fuel system by driving it, as idling won't do it. If it starts to run fine, then you're going to need to keep it above 1/4 tank until you have time to drop your tank and do the in-tank modification / Hutch Mod and fix for the pickup foot.

If it was above 1/4 tank...well, there's a ton of other issues you'll find in the hard / no start threads. For instance, make sure your IPR nut is securely on your IPR Sensor. If it's loose or missing, you will have symptoms like you described.

Another thing to check is your ICP Sensor. Unplug it, and see if there is oil coming out of the electrical connection. If so, not a good sign....likely going bad. While unplugged, see if your truck will start and run somewhat normal. If so, it could mean your IPR needs to be removed and cleaned up or replaced.

Lots to look at...good luck!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Real quik..there are 2 relays by the fuel filter..which one am I jumping?? and I don't think this truck has a block warmer..I've been looking and don't see it..
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RallyMedik
Real quik..there are 2 relays by the fuel filter..which one am I jumping?? and I don't think this truck has a block warmer..I've been looking and don't see it..
the one closest to the turbo or firewall. theone closests to the fuel filter is the AIH relay
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RallyMedik
Real quik..there are 2 relays by the fuel filter..which one am I jumping?? and I don't think this truck has a block warmer..I've been looking and don't see it..
Unless someone removed it, you have a block heater. Get underneath and look at the drivers side, rear of the block near the oil filter connection. Remember, without 10.5 v or more the truck will not start.

 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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So, I tried the Jumper on the relay...nadda..I have strong batteries but will charge them up over night and try again in the morning..One thing I noticed was..I used to be able to see the volt gauge move up a bit after the glow plugs turned off (on previous ford trucks)..I don't see that movement on this one...and I have always been able to start it here at my home. I think I do have a bank of Injectors down..but I also think I have a glow plug issue now as it always was kinda hard to start in the mountains when she sad for a long time in the cold.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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subscribing
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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Ok, I guess I needed to put my beer down..but Yes, there is one and I pluged it..in..With that and the batteries being charged..I'll try again in the AM. So, if it fire's and still runs like crap..I guess I will do the .25 cent fix on the other side..but what about the cold start issue?? I'm pretty sure my batteries are good..How hard is it to change the Glow Plugs if that's the issue..I didn't see them under the cover..


Originally Posted by nlemerise
Unless someone removed it, you have a block heater. Get underneath and look at the drivers side, rear of the block near the oil filter connection. Remember, without 10.5 v or more the truck will not start.

 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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I is pretty easy just pull the single wire connector off and use a 1/4 drive 10mm (I believe) socket to loosen them. I kinda doubt that is the issue though you would have to ha e several that were bad.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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If it is the harness under the valve cover there is a quick way to find out what side it is. If you have a laser thermal gun, start the motor and point the laser on the exhaust manifolds. If you go to every exhaust port on the manifold. you will see which one is not firing by it's temperature. you can get one at most auto parts store for around $40. they are good to have for other uses too..
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 10:05 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by sand_fiend
If it is the harness under the valve cover there is a quick way to find out what side it is. If you have a laser thermal gun, start the motor and point the laser on the exhaust manifolds. If you go to every exhaust port on the manifold. you will see which one is not firing by it's temperature. you can get one at most auto parts store for around $40. they are good to have for other uses too..

Yup, I'm already for that..but she won't start is the problem...I had it on the Block warmer and battery charger all night..She kicked a couple of times this morning like she wanted to..but..nadda.. I think the problem is the harness on the passenger side for the injectors..and as my luck has it..rain is in the forecast for the next week..Going to bribe someone to bring over there Snap-On scanner..the one I have doesn't pick up any code's.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 10:21 AM
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have you checked the 42 pin plug on the drivers valve cover. look for chafing on any of the wires, a common problem, then look for any burnt pins inside.

I have set up one of those portable "sports tents" over my truck before. It took help getting it into position but it fit even with the hood raised.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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I don't mean to barge into the conversation but I'm new here and I need to post a question but not sure where or how to post. Please help! Thanks
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 10:34 AM
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If you have a meter, you can check the 42-pin to the injectors.

 
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