Howdy Guys....I have a 1966 F-100 352 cu in w/3sp. I just had the motor rebuilt using a mild street cam, everything else is stock....it has a 2 barrel carb with after market air filter.

The sticker on the fender well inside engine compartment says to time at 2*BTC but I read on other forums that a 352 is timed at 5"BTC for a stick shift and 8* for a automatic but made no mention of the Kar-Kit Nox.

Is there susposed to be some kind of box or anything that gets attached to the dist? the limited info I was able to find on the Kar-Kit says the vacumn advance gets disconnected so it can run retarded but mine has nothing attached to the dist and it has a vac advance that works when I suck on the vac tube that is connceted to a port at the base of the carb on the left side.

When I use the timing light it advances when I increase the RPM. I have the timing set at 2* BTC just like the Kar-Kit sticker says to do. I want to advance it to about 5* which some websites say is the correct timing for a stick shift and makes no mention so Im assuming that if I do not have any Kar-Kit Nox device on the truck and there is a Vac advance I should be able to time it at 5*...Correct?

Well I cant! when I do the engine dies. Are the mechanical advance parts inside the dist the same as a dist that has no Kar-Kit Nox on it? are the weights to curve it the same with or without a Kat-Kit Nox?

I only get 10mpg and have seen many guys on YouTube who have advanced their dist a few degrees and gained 4 to 6 more MPG. so I want to advance mine but as I said it wont let me. I had a 1972 360 stick shift that got about 15MPG on the hwy.

Im thinking of buying a new AM dist and these look to be good, especially the cost...can you please tell me which one is best.....one says I will have to run a new 12v wire to ignition and it is used with 1/4" oil pump drives.....does my '66 352 have a 1/4" oil pump drive?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-FORD-352-360-390-427-428-FE-/300634426130?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid% 3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27% 26meid%3D4204277284406203049%26pid%3D100033%26prg% 3D1011%26rk%3D4%26sd%3D190763113296%26 this one says need to install new 12 wire to ignition.....is 5 1/4" dia and fits<VAR id=yiv1718246808yui-ie-cursor></VAR> engines with 1/4" oil pump drive shaft


This one has 3 yr Warranty:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FE-HEI-Distributor-332-352-360-390-406-410-427-428-NEW-BLACK-3-Yr-Warranty-/190763113296?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item2c6a5e1b50&vxp=mtr<VAR id=yiv1718246808yui-ie-cursor></VAR>




God Bless America!
Patrick

****** content=on http-equiv=x-dns-prefetch-control>

 

Don't just by the cheapest distributor that you can find. It will most likely come back and bite you in the butt. I have bought 2 cheap HEI's and both lost the coil in the first 1,000 miles. CRT performance has a good reputation with poor customer service. They have a nice product.

 

hard to find but if you want a really good dizzy for an FE get a dual point mallory they are amazing

 

Nearly endless discussion here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ut-needed.html

A conversion to an electronic system and timing out in the 8 to 12 BTDC area would be, imo, you best course. Usually, people time these engines out as far as they can without pinging. I did that myself with my 289 years ago--the factory spec was 6 degrees BTDC. I was able to run about 10 just fine.

Your "Kar-Kit" gizmo comes from the time in the '70s when California tried to have people retrofit these miserable devices to older cars to try and reduce oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust. (retarded timing can mean lower combustion tems and less nox.) It also meant poor running cars and terrible fuel economy which more than offset any gains made by reducing nox. These regulations were eventually eliminated, and all emissions testing is eliminated for 1975 and older vehicles. You can fiddle with your engine to your hearts content.

Based on the other posts, I'm pretty sure you have the 1/4" drive. As for the spark curve, afaik that is the same as stock, for better or worse. The devices were just to control timing advance.

 

OEM distb were notorius for worn vac addv pivit thus points become unstable when plate is moveing and proper dwell most important..28*