This is my first diesel, and my first truck tbh.
2000 f250 4x4 supercab 6spd
I've been reading some to find out what easier performance mods I can do without tearing into the engine.
It seems a tuner and dpf delete are the most recommended, along with intake and exhaust.
I've settled on MBRP dual stacks (leaning toward 8"), but am not sure where to start on intake or tuners. I've considered a snorkel, but am thinking I might be tall enough to just go CAI, since I don't do the hardcore mudding I used to do in my jeep.
I think I'd like a tuner with a monitor eventually, but would be ok with a switch for now.
So everybody shoot their ideas my way so I can do this right and make my truck the best it can be.
Thanks!

 

I didn't think that a 7.3 had a DPF. I may be wrong,

 

You don't have a dpf so put your money towards some gauges, tuner, exhaust, CAI.

 

Want the truck to last? Gauges and AE to read data. Get the truck squared away stock BEFORE throwing tuners and mods on it.

 

It also sounds like it would be a good idea to stop talking to whoever is giving you truck advice about how to mod your truck. If they really brought up a DPF delete, then they really have no clue about what your motor needs in terms of accessories or a tuner.

 

Good advice. A DPF first started about 2008 for Ford (IIRC). 5 years after the 7.3 was pulled from use by Ford.
The brotherhood here at FTE will not steer you wrong, but sometimes takes time to reply.

 

Thanks!
I won't take advice from them any longer.
That's why I like forums better. It's made up of people who have experience with these vehicles, and often own a very similar one.

Only thing I had to chase down was an oil leak, which was due to the filter not being fully tightened.
Everything else is great.
Only 137k on vehicle.

 

Not trying to justify incorrect data, but the 7.3 did come with a cat on some manuals and ca trucks. I think the guy just called it the wrong name, but, carry on.

Typically on these trucks, tearing into the motor means you're expecting done serious hp. Everything you'll do on the truck, aside from 50cent mod(which includes retorquing injectors), does not require opening up the engine.

First get the trucks fluids changed, fix leaks, and clean up grease from engine, fuel filter, check turbo, grease everything with a fitting.

Second get gauges. If you tow or go off road, or play hard, you need to know what your engine and trans is doing. You can skip the trans temp if you want and get a fuel pressure gauge, but the zf6 gets hot also and should get monitored. It should have a small cooler already, but you can buy a big side cover to let it hold more fluid.

Third
Now you can do exhaust. Get a 4" whatever. A 5" is a waste because you're not making crazy power, and the downpipe is still 4". If you didn't have a cat, you could just do a muffler delete and save a ton of money, and have same performance.

Fourth
Supporting mods for future upgrades. HPX and FRX is nice to have. (High pressure oil crossover and fuel rail crossover w/metered return to get rid of air)
It will help get oil to injectors and get rid of micro air bubbles in fuel by not allowing fuel to dead end in the number 8 injector.

Fifth
Now you can get a chip or tuner. Stick with a custom guy. The edge with its display is nice, but its harsh on equipment at times. Being a manual trans it may not be as big of an issue though.

Sixth
Now that you have all this power... Time for a clutch.


What else guys. Don't worry. Lots will chime in to help you spend your money.

 

A DPF is NOT a catalytic converter. Different thing entirely.

 

We all know that, the op clearly didn't know that, and his 18 year old buddy that said dpf didn't either.
Give us a break. It like calling it a gas pedal. We know its not a gas pedal but people get it wrong all the time.

Either way, he wants to get rid of the cat, the end.

 

I'm familiar with catalytic converters, having done exhaust mods for other vehicles. The older guy behind the counter at the shop here in town brought up the DPF, which I was unfamiliar with , never having done anything diesel related. It appears, however, that my vehicle doesn't have one, so that subject is moot.

It is my understanding that the MBRP stacks get rid of the catalytic converter as part of the design, so that step will be taken care of upon installation.

I have noticed that most gauge pods have three spots.
Which three are most highly recommended?
Brand?
Digital or analog?

 

Typically
Boost
EGT
Trans temp

Later you can get
Fuel pressure
Oil temp

Boost and egt is most important. Being a manual, trans temp isn't as critical.
Maybe someone with a manual will add some info.

 

Being you have a 6spd I'd put a scan gauge in the third spot. Then you can add fuel pressure etc., to that and see it all.

 

I use a rotary switch with three sending units- coolant, ZF6, and diff in one standard temp gauge. But under towing/load the ZF6 will closely track coolant temp in my experience.

 

I've been driving a 6spd for over 250k miles and I've had a 7.3 Excursion for over 100k miles. The following recommendations are based on my experience.

First, make sure the truck is up to par mechanically. Do all the regular maintenance including changing the fluids - specifically coolant. I recommend switching to an ELC so ya don't have to monitor SCA's and flush/change coolant periodically as is required by conventional coolant. Look for drive pressure leaks (up-pipes) and do a test to look for boost leaks. Verify glow plugs are working properly. Get hooked up to a scan tool and check things like ICP, Rotational Velocity as well as all the system switches, etc.

Next, decide what you want your end goal to be. Do you want truck that's just a lot of fun to drive on the street? Do you tow anything? Wanna do some sled pulling?? Figure out what your budget is and if you want to do the upgrades in stages, how much can you spend at a time.

After the regular maintenance and fixing the common issues, go ahead and do want ya want with the exhaust. No offense, but 8" stacks says alot about your taste... Then upgrade the air filter. The stock filter box is a POS and should be replaced. The best bang for your buck is hands-down the 6637 filter - this is good for 500HP no problem. It is louder than some of the CAI options, but performs well enough to be considered a great option.

Gauges are mandatory. EGT is by far the most critical, but I'd consider Fuel Pressure mandatory as well. Boost is good for monitoring engine performance. There is absolutely no need to monitor trans temp on a 6spd, but if ya like gauges you can make your truck look like a cockpit... I really like the Aeroforce Scangauge, since it can not only display every parameter the truck measures - it can do some of the on-board diagnostics most people go to the dealer for. This gauge gives you the EOT and coolant temp some of the others have recommended. There are 3 and 4 gauge A-pillar pods, 'cubby' pods (under dash) and over-the-mirror pods, as well as pods that go on either side of the stock dash gauges. There is also the F650 dash for a super-cool and 'stock' look...

If you are ready for more power, custom programming is where its at. I'd recommend a TS-style (6) position chip. At least one tuner offers free lifetime reburns - this is a beautiful thing if you are doing the upgrades in stages.

The only limit to how much power you can make is MONEY. A low-budget build with mild injectors and an upgraded turbo would be about $2k after the above stuff is done. For a full engine build and up to 600HP, you can easily spend well over $10k.

Eventually, you'll need a clutch for that thing. But ya likely already need a pilot bearing - since the stock offering is a total POS. A proven upgrade is to machine the flywheel to accept the larger 6.0 pilot bearing, but I've been running a roller bearing that fits the stock flywheel for awhile now with good results. For a daily driver and tow-rig clutch, ya can't beat the Southbend Con OFE (the LUK sucks by comparison). If you're gonna make big power or sled pull, you'll need something like a dual-disk clutch. When ya need to replace the hydraulics, there is an all-metal master and slave option that should be better than the plastic OE stuff - although my OE stuff has over 360K miles on it now.

Have fun and keep us posted!!!