89 F250 7.5 initial timing specs?
#1
89 F250 7.5 initial timing specs?
After chasing some run/warm start problems I'm convinced it's time for a new distributor. Even though it may not be the only problem I'm going start fresh with a distributor and coil. Cap,rotor, and plugs are new. With 193,000 miles it can't hurt right? Does anyone know the initial timing specs? Both manuals say to reference the sticker underhood which I don't have. When I put at TDC (align the rotor with #1 position on the cap I'm at 22 before TDC. Anyone know the spec? Thanks
#2
You need to remove the "Spout" plug first, in order to disable the computer advance. (a gray plug with a looped jumper wire)
IIRC you should then be at 10* and whatever your warm engine idle rpm is supposed to be. (750???)
There may be an emissions calibration sticker on the DS valve cover of your engine.
IIRC you should then be at 10* and whatever your warm engine idle rpm is supposed to be. (750???)
There may be an emissions calibration sticker on the DS valve cover of your engine.
#3
#5
Why be guessing?
Put the timing marks at '0' or check for TDC compression on the #1 cylinder, pull the old one, and replace it pointing at #1 on the cap.
Then just pull the spout, fire it up and time it.
What you have -now- is irrelevant.
I really don't know how much the computer 'adds'.
I know my vacuum distributor adds a lot more than 10-12*, but I have a custom curve.
(Oh, and I see I am mistaken. The spout looks black in that photo)
#6
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Why?
Why be guessing?
Put the timing marks at '0' or check for TDC compression on the #1 cylinder, pull the old one, and replace it pointing at #1 on the cap.
Then just pull the spout, fire it up and time it.
What you have -now- is irrelevant.
I really don't know how much the computer 'adds'.
I know my vacuum distributor adds a lot more than 10-12*, but I have a custom curve.
(Oh, and I see I am mistaken. The spout looks black in that photo)
Why be guessing?
Put the timing marks at '0' or check for TDC compression on the #1 cylinder, pull the old one, and replace it pointing at #1 on the cap.
Then just pull the spout, fire it up and time it.
What you have -now- is irrelevant.
I really don't know how much the computer 'adds'.
I know my vacuum distributor adds a lot more than 10-12*, but I have a custom curve.
(Oh, and I see I am mistaken. The spout looks black in that photo)
SPOUT plug color depends on year. My 87's SPOUT plug is grey & the connector socket is black.
#7
Good to know.
But, I don't have a computer in my truck, I have a carburetor...
My DSII distributor is set to 12* initial at 800 RPM in neutral.
And jumps to about 30* (at idle) when I reconnect the vacuum line.
My springs, weights, limit posts, tabs and vacuum canister have all been modified.
But, I don't have a computer in my truck, I have a carburetor...
My DSII distributor is set to 12* initial at 800 RPM in neutral.
And jumps to about 30* (at idle) when I reconnect the vacuum line.
My springs, weights, limit posts, tabs and vacuum canister have all been modified.
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#8
The EFI 460 times at 10 degrees BTDC. set with the SPOUT unplugged. Best way to static it is as Jim suggested. Bring it up till you feel compression on #1 with the spark plug out, then bring it to TDC on the balancer. With the distributor rotor pointing straight back install the distributor (this applies to DS-II systems also) If it won't go all the way in, push down on the body while turning the engine until it drops in. Bring the engine back to 10 degrees before on #1 and set the leading edge of the shutter in line with the hall effect sensor. This is real close to 10 then check with a timing light.
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