Foreward: I do know how to set base timing, I have had 4 diffrent FE's in the past and have always run 10 - 14 degrees BTDC.

I just got my cylinder heads rebuilt (feel like I was totally ripped off, but a story for another day), any way the machinist was telling me how I "should" set my timing and it went totally over my head.

He was saying something like set my base timing at spec and then use a timing light you can adjust the strobe to advance the timing marks (which I have) and he said to rev it up to see what the total advance was and then mark it at "Zero" and then set it back and you will have a proper timing set. This is how I recall it, but I am sure I am missing something thus being confused.

Does anyone have experience with this that they could help me out?

 

 

The way that I set base timing is to rotate the engine using a rachet or breaker bar and socket, with the #1 spark plug out, until I feel pressure pushing my finger tip. This means the piston is on the compression stroke. Look at the harmonic balancer and pay attention to the timing marks. Once 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) is indicated stop rotating the engine. Drop the distributor into the engine (it may take a few times to get the oil pump shaft lined up) and line the rotor with the #1 spark plug tower. It helps to mark the distributor base with a sharpie so you can see the location of the rotor in comparision to the #1 plug tower. Rotate the distributor until the rotor just comes in line with the sharpie mark. Install the hold down loosely, #1 spark plug, secure the distributor cap, unplug the vacuum advance hose and plug it. Ensure you have taken the tool off harmonic balancer before you try to start the engine. Prime the fuel system and start it. You should be almost dead on with your initial timing when checking it with a light. Total advance is checked by increasing the rpm until you reach maximum movement of the timing mark. Subtract your initial timing from your max advance to come up with your total advance. 10* initial - 42* max = 32* total timing. Once you have the distributor set reconnect the vacuum advance if you have one and again check your initial timing. If it moved, check the vacuum port the advance line is connected to. You should have 0 vacuum at idle until you start to open the throttle. If your port is the correct one you need to adjust your carb idle screw until you have 0 again. This how I set up my distributor timing.

Tuning a carb is different for each engine/carb/cam set up so if you need help with that then post back.

 

I understand and practice setting base timing, installing a distributor etc. I have done that more times than I can remember. However, I think the machinest was trying to tell me how to maximize and use my advance with out having to remove and replace the distributor and adjust my distributor and test drive and test drive until you "think" you got it at it's max potential.

 

Since MOST balancers are NOT marked fully, you'll never really know what the total timing is. So, using a timing light that you can adjust, you can rev the motor up, then adjust the dial til it brings the mark back to TDC. This will then show you what your total timing is. I think that is all he was trying to tell you?

In the realm of things, not really useful information unless your "tuning" it for max power. 99% people just set initial and let it go, but for those of us that want to do some work we want to know what the total is.

 

You lost me in the run on sentence that wouldn't stop no matter how hard I tired and I couldn't understand it without periods and commas and question marks and exclamation points as to which point you were tring to illistrate that the machinist lost you on and so on LOL I know I am being difficult but that is just part some of our frustrations trying to understand what we read and how to help.

 

I did that on purpose buddy, because that's how the guy talked (while using the F-bomb every third word). That's why he confused the hell out of me. With the amount of profanity the guy used my little brain was only recording about a 1/3 of what he said.

I was just trying to see if someone here could explain to me what he meant to say. Without the profanity and quick talking and run on sentences.

 

I'm getting the impression that this machinist is not only a poor machinist but don't know crap about setting timing. OK, after several reads here's what I think, and I made a living as an engine mechanic so....... The only way to truly check the damper marks for true TDC is with a piston stop, since most won't have that handy little tool, you pretty much just get close with the #1 piston at or close to TDC and the damper mark at 0°. The other area he appears to be incorporating into this is setting initial timing by setting total max mechanical timing. Here you rev the engine and use the timing delay **** to get the pointer at 0° and read the **** to know what total is. With an FE 38° is the max you want to run and 34° to 36° is safer with todays crappy fuel. With max mechanical timing set (the vacuum is disconnected during this procedure), no go back and see what inital is and record it, so next time you know what to set initial to without all the screwing around. God I hope that's clearer than what the machinist said.