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A weak LPOP has been known to cause the symptom you described. The engine starts then dies, then eventually starts and runs fine the rest of the day. Then it starts all over again when it has been sitting for a while.
Next time you cold start, check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir....then check again immediately after the engine dies. The plug should be installed any time the engine is running. Also, make sure you clean the plug and surrounding area before opening the reservoir to minimize the chance of debris getting down in there. A tiny little bit can cause issues with the IPR...
I have checked the oil in the HPOP 3 times after it has died. Always withing 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the top. AE show's the ICP at about 728 pounds when it's running.
I have checked the oil in the HPOP 3 times after it has died. Always withing 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the top. AE show's the ICP at about 728 pounds when it's running.
It is likely that your ICP sensor is faulty or unplugged. What is the voltage from that sensor at idle?
We usually see around 480-500 psi at idle for HPO...
A reading in the 700-725 range is the default value assigned when the PCM detects a fault with the ICP sensor....but that is also normally accompanied with a SES light.
Unless you have a programmer or chip installed, your high ICP reading and low duty cycle on the IPR makes me suspect possible injector issues. Have you looked at the oil discharge from the injectors when cold started? I wonder if you have some lazy injector(s).
We usually see around 480-500 psi at idle for HPO...
A reading in the 700-725 range is the default value assigned when the PCM detects a fault with the ICP sensor....but that is also normally accompanied with a SES light.
Unless you have a programmer or chip installed, your high ICP reading and low duty cycle on the IPR makes me suspect possible injector issues. Have you looked at the oil discharge from the injectors when cold started? I wonder if you have some lazy injector(s).
Now that you mention it, I did have a DPtuner installed at the time I took those readings. I have since removed it to see if it might of been the problem. I didn't think to take new readings after I removed it. I did get some codes from the ICM after I took the tuner out and the SES is on.
Here are the codes I last got.
P1277 cyl #7 low to high open
P1293 Injector high side open Bank 1
P1294 Injector high side open Bank 2
Here are the buzz test results
One long strong buzz.
cyl 1 strong buzz
cyl 2 slightly weaker but not much
cyl 3 slightly weaker than 2
cyl 4 strong as 1
cyl 5 strong as 4 but more clicking noise than buzz
cyl 6 kinda weak, about like 3
cyl 7 very weak, barely buzz at all
cly 8 bout like 6 and 3
I didn't run the truck after I removed the vc's to check the oil output of the injectors.
Now that you mention it, I did have a DPtuner installed at the time I took those readings. I have since removed it to see if it might of been the problem. I didn't think to take new readings after I removed it. I did get some codes from the ICM after I took the tuner out and the SES is on.
Here are the codes I last got.
P1277 cyl #7 low to high open
P1293 Injector high side open Bank 1
P1294 Injector high side open Bank 2
Here are the buzz test results
One long strong buzz.
cyl 1 strong buzz
cyl 2 slightly weaker but not much
cyl 3 slightly weaker than 2
cyl 4 strong as 1
cyl 5 strong as 4 but more clicking noise than buzz
cyl 6 kinda weak, about like 3
cyl 7 very weak, barely buzz at all
cly 8 bout like 6 and 3
I didn't run the truck after I removed the vc's to check the oil output of the injectors.
#7 needs further investigation. A very weak buzz is actually the other 7 soft buzzing. The IDM does that to protect itself in case one injector is dead or unplugged. I don't remember...did you say you ohmed out the harness already?
If so, then you can try swapping solenoids and see if the problem follows the solenoid when buzzed again.
No, I haven't ohmed the harness. I will see if I have time to do that tomorrow. When I pulled the valve covers there was a slight gap in the plug where the UVHC plugs into the valve cover gaskets on both sides. Is that enough to cause a problem? Kinda like they were loose but not really unplugged. Also, I couldn't see any ford part numbers on any of the gaskets or wire harness. I do believe they have been changed before. All I saw was made in China.
Just a little unplugged is enough to be a problem for the UVCH. Pull off the connectors and look for burnt pins. 50 cent mod time and then ohm it out. Or skip all that and slap on new Motorcraft or IH gaskets and UVCH harness. The aftermarket stuff has a bad rep, but I have no experience with them. Once the harness is good try the buzz test again. Might be all it takes. Also check the harness by the 42 pin connector on the driver side, it can chafe on the valve cover and cause a variety of issues.
No, I haven't ohmed the harness. I will see if I have time to do that tomorrow. When I pulled the valve covers there was a slight gap in the plug where the UVHC plugs into the valve cover gaskets on both sides. Is that enough to cause a problem? Kinda like they were loose but not really unplugged. Also, I couldn't see any ford part numbers on any of the gaskets or wire harness. I do believe they have been changed before. All I saw was made in China.
A slight gap is ok. Go ahead and ohm the wires to make sure they are OK. I prefer to measure at the IDM connector since the opportunity to rule out a bunch of stuff exists. Search the web or this forum for GB technical bulletin and you should find the procedure. If you have an open circuit where some resistance should be present then you can move to the connector on the left bank valve cover and measure again...if the results are the same then move to the external portion of the valve cover and measure again, etc. With this method you can easily narrow down where the open circuit is located.
If the measurements at the IDM connector are all within spec, then you can go difectly to the injectors for your next troubleshooting steps. Swapping injector solenoids can sometimes give some additional clues....
Thank you very much Shake N Bake. I'm gonna try to find time this afternoon to get some of the stuff you mentioned done. It will give me something to check while I'm waiting on the parts.
1fixitman, Clay called me last night and we was able to get the boots swapped out for the correct ones before he shipped them. Good catch.
Ok guys, I had time today to do the ohms test. I hooked everything back up and took the test at the IDM plug according to GB tech bulletin # 103. Here are the results.
Test #1
23 & 22 Left bank power feed to #2 ground circuit 3.1
23 & 7 " #4 3.1
23 & 19 #6 3.1
23 & 9 #8 3.1
24 & 6 Right bank power feed to #1 ground circuit 3.3
24 & 21 " #3 3.4
24 & 8 #5 3.9
24 & 20 #7 1 Open circuit?
Test #2
23 & 26 left bank power feed to IDM ground circuit 1 open
24 &26 right bank power feed to IDM ground circuit 1 open
Test #3
23 & 18 left bank power feed to injector ground shield. 1 open
24 & 18 right bank power feed to injector ground shield 1 open.
I didn't have time to check at the VC connections to see if the readings change, I will try to do that tomorrow.
The next easiest thing to check is the #7 solenoid itself. If that ohms good then plug it back in and check for continuity at the 42 pin connector. Tugly posted a photo that shows which pins are what. Try and search for it and it will be a huge help.
You are very close to locating your issue...
EDIT: Here is the photo that Tugly posted for our benefit.
Last edited by Shake-N-Bake; Dec 15, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
Reason: uploaded pic
Thanks Shake N Bake. I should have more time to mess with the truck tomorrow. Kinda hard to figure anything out like this when you only have a few minutes here and there. I'm gonna make time to get to the bottom of this tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.
Also, thanks to tugly for the photo. If it wasn't for all the great help you guys have been I would of given up and taken it to the dealer long ago.
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