I can't tell you that because I have no idea how it was originally wired. But, however it was wired is how it needs to be wired.

 

Do I remember long ago(maybe in this thread) that you have a aftermarket harness you are using? It should have a decent size wire that hooks to the positive of the battery, usually at the starter solenoid. This wire feeds the whole truck. Take it off, and nothing works. This is the wire that you will have to run into the cab, through the loop in the ammeter, and then back out and re-connect it back onto the solenoid or the battery +, whichever it was at.

What you are doing is monitoring everything going in and out of the battery, except the very large wire going to the starter itself.

Things you need to watch out for; In the old days they did not us fuses on some of these wires like this, and you do not have to either, but you need to be very careful how you run this wire. Tied up well, and grommets where it goes through the firewall. Later on they used fusible links to protect a wire like this. It needs to be at least a 10 gauge wire, and it does connect directly to the battery, which has a lot of potiential behind it.

 

So, no shunt at all. Wow! Yep, you'd better do a good job of installing that wiring 'cause you can burn things up quickly if you get a short to ground. I would run it in wire loom, sometimes called split-loom, to protect it. And, as Dave said, use grommets wherever it passes through a piece of metal like the firewall.

 

Ok will look over the installation manual for the harness again and see if I can figure out what exactly I have. I am running all wiring inside of wire loom. I get this stuff again courtesy of any old Truck or van in the scrapyard, I dont know if you guys have priced the stuff new but it is ridiculous.

Once its pulled from the vehicle in the yard and the old dirty tape is removed it is brand new condition underneath.

I already have rubber grommets everwhere it passes thru any metal so that will not be an issue.

 

Trying to put this all together today here is the diagram for my instrument cluster/gauges, I do not see a separate wire for just the ammeter but it looks like it is instead the very same wire that provides power to all of the gauges. and here is where we left it last for me to insert the CVR I guess I need to ask on which side or where the CVR needs to go again, would I put the CVR after the voltmeter or before and before the resistance wire?

I am wondering in other words if the power should go first thru the ammeter ( this would be my guess if I had too ) and then thru the resistance wire and then thru CVR and then onto gauges?

In this manner the ammeter would be reading the raw voltage

Is there any truth in the other post I read stating that I can use the original 52 gauge..........Quote..........The ammeter needs no conversion-you can use it as is. You just need to run the wire carrying the load through in the opposite direction...........

I do not know what is meant by opposite direction either I guess.

Safe to assume by looking at my aftermarket wiring diagram above that it does matter in what order these gauges are wired or in other words they have placed the ammeter first, I guess I should follow the same path otherwise I would be getting a reading at the volt meter of the reduced voltage given off of the CVR.

I think I have it right now but clarification of the opposite direction deal would be nice if that is the only aspect I am confused with.

 

You haven't got it straight yet. The only thing the ammeter will have to do with the other gauges is the illumination wire for night driving, and it's location near the other gauges. It's wire will have nothing to do with the wiring of the other gauges.

In your diagrams, find the diagram that shows the battery, the alternator, and possibly the fuse box or ignition switch. The diagram where the main power originates from.

Don't worry about getting the wire direction through the gauge correct. You can do that later. Once you get it wired up, just turn the headlights on without running the engine. If the gauge swings positive instead of negative, then you just need to take the wire out and run it through the other direction. You have a 50 50 chance of getting it right the first time.

 

Dave, as always, has it spot-on. The ammeter is completely separate and only shares lighting with the others. And, if you get the wires backward you can just swap the terminals on the back.

But fyi, your Kwik wiring diagram doesn't have an ammeter, just a volt meter and it just reads the voltage the others are using.

 

Ok got it, thanks guys

 

It sounds like this harness was not originally set up for an Ammeter, I understand that now, thanks

 

I did not know there was a difference between ammeter and voltmeter, I will google what is the difference. Thanks for cluing me in

 

In simple terms, an ammeter shows the amount of current, like how much water is flowing in a hose. A volt meter shows the potential, similar to the pressure in a hose.

 

But, this picture shows an ammeter:


So, we need to make sure we are on the same page. Are you going to use the meter in that picture that shows Batt with D on the left and C on the right? I'm pretty sure that is an ammeter or it wouldn't be right in the middle when no wires are attached.

 

The gauge that is in that picture with the D and the C is the original 1952 Gauge for that instrument cluster. It is the only original gauge for that instrument cluster I will be using. Thanks for clarifying so we are on the same page

I am assuming that is an Ammeter

 

I am very sure that is set up to be used as an ammeter. So, that gets us back to the discussion re a shunt. We need to make sure that meter doesn't need a shunt, so go back to Dave's suggestion of using the headlights. Put the meter in the circuit between a battery and a headlamp - just briefly as it might cause a wild swing. Or, maybe better, start by connecting a AA battery across the meter - again just briefly as in touch the 2nd lead to the open post. If the meter pegs then it needs a shunt. If it doesn't even move it takes the full current.

HOWEVER, what that full current is hasn't been discussed IIRC. Are you going back with a wimpy 1952 generator or a later alternator? The reason I ask is that if you are installing a late model 100+ amp alternator I doubt that ammeter will like it. That's because the generator it was mated to probably put out 30 amps, max. So the ammeter would be spec'd for full scale at 30 amps. But, if you put in a much larger alternator then when the battery is low and the regulator says CHARGE your ammeter is going to be getting at least twice the current it was designed for. It may survive, but it may not.

So, if you are going with a later alternator then I think I would use the 80's ammeter and let's calculate the shunt you need to pair with that alternator.

 

I am using this alt and here are is specs.

<table id="prodspecs" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td style="width: 60%">Part Number:</td><td>DL7078DP</td></tr><tr><td>Weight:</td><td>11.6 lbs</td></tr><tr><td>Warranty:</td><td> Limited Lifetime</td></tr><tr><td>Alternator Diameter:</td><td> 133</td></tr><tr><td>Alternator Fan:</td><td> External</td></tr><tr><td>Alternator Mounting Brackets Included:</td><td> Yes</td></tr><tr><td>Alternator Output Amperage (A):</td><td> 65</td></tr><tr><td>Alternator Regulation:</td><td> External</td></tr><tr><td>Alternator Voltage:</td><td> 12</td></tr><tr><td>Automotive System Application:</td><td> Electrical System</td></tr><tr><td>Brushless Design:</td><td> Yes</td></tr><tr><td>Color / Finish:</td><td> Same as OEM</td></tr><tr><td>Housing Material:</td><td> Aluminum</td></tr><tr><td>Installation Hardware Included:</td><td> Yes</td></tr><tr><td>Package Contents:</td><td> Alternator, Technical Troubleshooting Guide, Technical Support Sticker</td></tr><tr><td>Product Condition:</td><td> Remanufactured</td></tr><tr><td>Pulleys Included:</td><td> 1</td></tr><tr><td>Vehicle System Voltage:</td><td> 12V</td></tr></tbody></table>


Nothing fancy, just a cheap alternator mounted on my 1970 351 W engine. I will try the tests as was suggested when I get there, later gauge will not fit into the 1952 housing without some juryrigging which I prefer not to have to do. Thanks again