I may give this a shot, good to know, thanks

 

This does make sense to me so will keep it in mind, thanks

 

Regular solder will not adhere to Nichrome. Ford used a crimp to join it then usually pots the crimp in rubber, even their multiple splices are done that way.

 

My memory is vindicated! So, you are going to have to use a butt-splice crimp connector, one that is just big enough to accept the wire and little more. And the reason the connector has to be "full" is that the crimping terminal crimps down to a specific size. If there isn't enough wire in the connector to create the compression needed to hold everything together tightly you will have a loose joint that will fail at some point.

 

Another post that I somehow overlooked, thanks for the info. I do not know why I stopped getting e-mail notification when a post was made or why often times when I visit my thread is not highlighted for me as a new post received.

 

Ok will do than, makes sense to me

 

This is in more than one place but I posted a few different questions on different areas of this site and am trying to keep them all going which is a pain in the butt

I am still waiting for my 52 gauge package/bezel faceplate ect to arrive but today I received my new sending unit and placing it along side my 52 sending unit they appear almost identical <table id="ncode_imageresizer_warning_1" class="ncode_imageresizer_warning" width="400"><tbody><tr><td class="td1" width="20"></td><td class="td2">Click this bar to view the full image.</td></tr></tbody></table>

The top where it bolts to the tank are nearly the same size diam <table id="ncode_imageresizer_warning_2" class="ncode_imageresizer_warning" width="400"><tbody><tr><td class="td1" width="20"></td><td class="td2">Click this bar to view the full image.</td></tr></tbody></table>
With the major difference that I can see being the one less screw and the screws on the new unit are placed further inboard. I do not yet know if they are too far in-board.

I have not yet tried placing this on my tank. I do not want to screw up this new unit but out of curiosity has anyone ever tried removing these tops. I am wondering if it is possible to switch them. I see that there is a bit of what appears to be a clear glue on the top of the new unit, can anyone tell me what this is?

I am thinking that it would be easy to transfer the tops of these things and be done with any mounting problems in one easy move but I have never attempted this and paid 62 dollars plus with shipping for this new sending unit and again do not want to screw anything up.

If I knew what this clear substance was and whether it could be disturbed and then replaced once the transfer was made than I feel I would have a better chance.

I am not concerned with the original unit, I can get that top off and modify it however needed to fit this new unit just as it is supposed to. Thanks again

 

The clear glue is probably epoxy to seal around the screw. Do you have anything or the ability to make a adapter plate? I am trying to remember how I did it on my 53 I used to have, it had the same setup. I do remember I had trouble when I was done with it leaking a little bit. The problem is the screws on the new unit do not clear the tank, but they do not match the holes in the tank either. So the adapter has to be thick enough to accommodate some very short screws. So the adapter has to be threaded also.

 

It went together so it has to come apart somehow. I'd want to try and unscrew the nut/screw terminal, I'd imagine the clear stuff is some sort of sealer or dielectric grease.

 

Now this is an EXCELLENT idea!
This way Im not screwing with modifying a new part

If you can think of more details let me know.

 

I may still just for the heck of it remove the epoxy, If I did not think that the only thing between this top and the regulator underneath it was this one screw than I would be less hesitant to try it.

I do believe however that if I were to remove this screw than off would come that top, I only wonder how its grounded, I am wondering if there is a wire somehow attached to the top up underneath.

I really dont want to test my skills of resoldering anything.

 

I may do this. I have the same question on another thread on the 48-52 forum because I dont know if those guys get over on this particular part of this site and there are alot of very skilled minds over there as well.

 

On your new sender look at the little box on it. That's the variable resistor inside. Your screw at the top is insulated from the metal body of the sending unit, and underheath there is a wire or flat piece of metal that acts like a wire, and this runs down to the box. This hooks to one end of the resistor inside. The float arm is able to move, but should also be grounded somehow to the frame of the sending unit(the old sending units had a metal box, so the arm rubbed the metal box to ground it). Inside, the end of the float arm has a flat metal wiper that rubs the resistor, either in the middle or either end depending on the position of the float arm.

So the current goes through the screw, down to the box, into the resistor, through the wiper, and then to the float arm which is ground.

The factory also usually puts a ground wire under one of the mounting screws for the sending unit, and runs this down in the harness to a official grounding point somewhere. You can't depend on the tank straps to give you a good ground, most of them have some sort of felt or cushion between the tank and the strap anyway.

 

Quote..........That's the variable resistor inside. Your screw at the top is insulated from the metal body of the sending unit,........This makes perfect sense and is clear to me now

Quote........and underheath there is a wire or flat piece of metal that acts like a wire, and this runs down to the box............So do you feel it is possible/wise/in my best interest to try and take this apart, I think it is starting to sound as if this would not be a good idea. I am starting to like your idea of the adapter much more.

Quote..........The factory also usually puts a ground wire under one of the mounting screws for the sending unit, and runs this down in the harness to a official grounding point somewhere. You can't depend on the tank straps to give you a good ground, most of them have some sort of felt or cushion between the tank and the strap anyway..........Thanks for clarifying this, I had asked about these cushions earlier on but I do not remember a response.

 

If you have a idea on how to make an adapter, I would do that. I don't know how much a machine shop would charge to make one. Or if you could do it yourself.

I am thinking the material that would be easiest to work with would be aluminum. You could get a small piece about 1/4" or 5/16" thick, and buy 2 hole saws, you might be able to make one.

Buy a hole saw the right size to make the OD of the adapter, and cut that first. Go slow and use lots of lubricant or cutting oil made for aluminum. If you get it hot, it will clog the teeth up on the hole saw.

Then if you could somehow mark some of the holes for the tank, I would drill a few of those, and then use them to screw the piece down on to a piece of plywood. Then take the smaller hole saw and cut the middle out.

You are going to need to decide what size screws you are going to use(a guess would be 8-32 or 10-32) and get a tap and the correct size drill bit for the tap. The holes for the sending unit on the adapter will have to be threaded. And then you can put in very short screws.

There is a chance you might have to countersink the holes that line up to the tank, and use flat headed screws. If the new sending unit goes over top the pattern in the tank, then you will not want the tank screws to stick up in the way.

Not as easy as it first sounded. The more I think about it, the more I want to say I cannabalized the old sending unit, gutted it out till it was just a ring left, and drilled holes in it and used it as an adapter. It wasn't as good a job as a thicker piece of aluminum though, and like I said if you filled the tank way up, it would leak a little bit.