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95 7.3 help needed

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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 08:22 AM
  #1  
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From: hamilton AL
Question 95 7.3 help needed

hey yall. I have a 95 f250 7.3 . It has a little over 300,000 miles. it runs great but I noticed under the turbo is a puddle of fuel and oil, like an 80/20 mix. its filled the valley pan and flows down the back of the trans. as far as I can tell it only starts poring onto the ground when I kill the truck out. what is the most common part to leak other than fuel lines/ and as far as oil could it be the turbo pedestal o ring, I’m looking for the easy and obsess. also with the block heater plugged in and it about 45 degrees it won’t start at all lots of smoke though'' glow plug relay?''. thanks everyone please help.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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Bummer your in a cold area.

Then again when I turn my truck off now, it pisses coolant on the ground.

The pressure wont turn off, need new radiator cap i guess.


Anyways.

The oil can be from a number of things.
EBPV, (on the turbo) the turbo o-rings (not usually) the IPR o-ring (more than likely) or even the Hpop seal (not as likely)

Fuel can be coming from the bowl someplace, there are 2 o-rings for the drain and a few sensors that can leak. Mine are all removed and plugged.
Fuel can also come from the lines. I've seen the FPR o-ring leak as well, but that one isn't as common.
Then of course the fuel pump can leak, but that doesn't happen as often either.

The hard start issues can be 1 or all of 3 things.

GPR, Glow plugs, or Harnesses.

You can pull the valve cover connectors and inspect them and maybe get lucky.

There is a way to test them with an ohm meter as well. Never done it, so I coudln't tell you.

Usually the harness messes up under the cover though inside.

Glow plugs do go bad as well, as do GPR's. so.
It's hard telling unless you have lots of testing equipment.

A clamp on amp meter can tell you whats up in seconds.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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I default to others about the fuel leak - I've never dealt with it...yet. As for the non-starting - I just had this problem (though I could get mine started after lots of cranking). For me, turns out all 8 GPs were bad, along with my GPR wasn't working. You can start by testing the GPR. It sits forward and to the pass side of the fuel bowl right on top. It's a round solenoid with 4 studs out the top of it - 2 big ones and 2 small ones. If you have a meter, put one prong on a good ground and the other one one of the LARGE studs - one of them should read 12V with the key OFF (you'll have to see which is 12V constant). The other should read nothing with the key OFF. Then go turn the key ON and check both LARGE studs. Both should read 12V, at least until the GPR shuts off, which will happen usually within 2 minutes. If you are not getting 12V on both studs with the key on, then your GPR is bad. Check that first. If that is working properly, then you might have some (or all) bad GPs. I think you can test them through the UVCH pins, but I can't remember how we did it. Otherwise, you can pull the Valve Covers and check the connections and, at the very least, check for continuity with all the connections. I think the true test is to check the ohms...but I can't remember exactly how off the top of my head. You can search on the forum how to do it, there are plenty of write-ups on how to check them.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:09 PM
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I posted some diagrams for testing the GPR and GP's in another earlier thread about the fellow poppin 8 grand into his truck this year...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-year-11.html

Frank A
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:20 PM
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I had the same puddle in the valley. With diesel and oil mix. It was my ebpv leaking oil (removed it completely) and the all the fuel line connections to the fuel pump (went to electric fuel). Had some minor leaking at the fuel bowl too.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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From: Ashland City, TN
Originally Posted by Splatts
I had the same puddle in the valley. With diesel and oil mix. It was my ebpv leaking oil (removed it completely) and the all the fuel line connections to the fuel pump (went to electric fuel). Had some minor leaking at the fuel bowl too.
Yeah, the EBPV cylinder can oval out and be a HUGE oil leak if let go. The system fails itself eventually.

Oil pass by and then the spring that holds it all together gets weak and doesn't maintain the seal going to the outside.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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From: hamilton AL
Exclamation putting it in Laymen’s terms lol

thanks guys yall have been great help but im newly coming into most of this. Can any one tell me what the abbreviations like- ebpv,ipr, h pop fpr. What those fuel names are and were those parts are located? I saw a small stream of oil running down the pedestal from the turbo is there a seal under there? all so idk if it is oil on the manifold or if it is a bad value cover but behind the passenger bank were you can not see there is a ton of smoke coming up from oil on the exhaust. Could it be a valve come or is there an oil line behind there?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Also I want to duel my truck out do I need for duel style rims for the back or will two duel style work with my factory rims? also any info were i could get all these parts would be great. Any help will be very appreciated. <o></o>
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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From: Ashland City, TN
EBPV = Exhaust back pressure valve
HPOP = High pressure Oil Pump
IPR = Injector Pressure Regulator
FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator.
 
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