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I have a weird problem with my heater. I will start my truck and leave the house and have heat. I get down the road a couple miles and all of the sudden it starts blowing cold. Then after a couple more miles the heat will come back. The past few morning that's all that's happened. This morning on my way to work this happened all the way to work. I've tried fiddling with the ***** thinking this was the problem and I doesn't seem to help. One thing I noticed is the first time the heat cut out the temp gauge on the dash went all the way back down to cold like I had just started the truck.
Another thing I noticed was last night when I got home there was a coolant smell coming from under the hood. I opened the hood and there was coolant all over everything by the reservoir; airbox, plastics, etc. I'm thinking that its the cap on the reservoir that is causing that. Could that be the source off all the problems I'm having?
It's a 1997 f150 with the 5.4 automatic tranny, 4x4
I went ahead and replaced the coolant reservoir cap and it ran fine last night on my way home. This morning I get in my truck and drive down the road a couple miles and heat just fine, temp gauge is at normal operating temperature. Then I get on the highway and the temp gauge drops all the way down to cold. Then not 5 seconds late the temp gauge spiked all the way to hot and dash lights come on I pull over and shut the truck off immediately. Pop the hood and look, couldn't see any problems, I did feel the upper radiator hose and it was ice cold. Anyone have any suggestions??
I should throw in I recently replaced the water pump and thermostat, if I somehow didn't get enough coolant back in the system would low coolant cause this problem?
I'd consider a new t-stat and make sure you have completely filled the system. Let it warm up and cool down a couple of time in the driveway before you take it on the road. Good luck
I will try that and get back with you. It's been acting funny ever since I change the t stat and water pump so it has to have something to do with that
It's possible you got the T-stat i backwards. Also, parts guys can sometimes give the wrong parts. I'm not familiar with the 5.4 motors. But on motors like the 302/351, there was a change in the direction of rotation of the waterpumps. The new style would bolt up, bu the belt configuration would cause them to turn backwards. Maybe someone else would know if anything like that might e involved with the newer engines.
I had a mechanic look it over today. It ran just fine, heat worked and everything. The thermostat is opening and closing properly. He suggested that it may be in intake gasket leaking. Was this a common problem with these motors? If so is there any way that I can be sure that it the problem before I tear the top end of the motor apart?
you need to wash it off and look and see if you have an external leak at the manifold or crossover tube... or if you have a internal head gasket leak and the combusion is getting into the coolant and burping the coolant tank when pressure gets too high.
Has anyone ever tried to use the Conklin dyke brand of stop leak for this problem? Does it do any good? If so how do I add it? Into the reservoir or should I take the upper hose off and add it into that?
Not good to add chemicals to the degas bottle unless there's top rad cap to remove as there's probably a large feed hose to the engine. If you have to add stop gap junk to your vehicle remove the rad cap and add there even if you have to drain a little coolant first.
Did the mechanic you took it to pressure test the cooling system to locate the leak?
I would be afraid that something blew the cap off.
Could be from overpressure casued by a leak in the head or head gasket.
Check your coolant to see if it' smilky (has oil in it), and check to see if your oil smells like coolant. Those would be clues to a a leak from a head gasket or otherwise.
Although, usually if you have a leak in the head the temps tend to jump up in a hurry -- and they soon overheat.
Also, Oreilly's and probably Autozone have coolling system and radiator cap leak testers that you can use. At Oreilly's, they will probably want a deposit equal to the price of the tester. You'll get it back when you bring the tester back. (Unless you break it, but they're pretty rugged. When I used one, the guy said he'd never had anyone damage it).
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