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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #1  
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Hutch mod question

Hi guys, sorry if this has been asked before (I did search but didn't come up with anything)

With the Hutch mod - what is the reason for making the fuel return like it is, instead of just letting the fuel drop back into the tank from the top? I'd just like to understand it more before I drop my tank, and since I'm having trouble finding stainless tube the right size here, I wondered if anyone has just left the return line short so it still isn't near the pick up?

Vehicle is a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Matt's Dad
Hi guys, sorry if this has been asked before (I did search but didn't come up with anything)

With the Hutch mod - what is the reason for making the fuel return like it is, instead of just letting the fuel drop back into the tank from the top? I'd just like to understand it more before I drop my tank, and since I'm having trouble finding stainless tube the right size here, I wondered if anyone has just left the return line short so it still isn't near the pick up?

Vehicle is a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4
It is to get the air bubbles in the fuel as far away from the pick up line as possible.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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I finished the Hutch Mod last week. As stated above you want the return as far away from the pickup as possible so it doesn't pickup and air from the return fuel. I used steel line instead of Stainless. It should be ok to use as several have completed the mod with steel lines. Get your fuel level as low as possible. I emptied my take to just under 1/4 and the tank was easy to remove. I used winching straps to secure the tank at both ends and then lowered each end a little at a time to get the tank down. Putting the tank back in took alittle more time to line every thing back up. Good Luck...you'll like the results of this mod.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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What they said^^^^. I'll add that discharging the return on the bottom of the tank will reduce fuel aeration in the tank when the level is low.

This mod is sooooo much easier to do by removing the bed - as long as the bolts aren't rusted/frozen. With an impact wrench, 10min and 4 guys, the bed comes right off!

I recommend using something like a WIX 33972 before the pump. Ya don't want (or need ) a restrictive filter before the pump. Anything more than 50mic is too fine and can reduce pump life.

The problem:


The solution - without the extension on the return line here:


Btw, steel or aluminum tubing is FINE on the return.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Thanks for the replies That makes sense to me about aeration in the fuel if the tank is low - I hadn't thought of that and couldn't understand why the fuel didn't just 'drop' back into the tank from the top.

Sorry, what do you mean 'bed'? I've looked under my Ex and it has a metal cover protecting the tank, is that what you mean?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt's Dad
Thanks for the replies That makes sense to me about aeration in the fuel if the tank is low - I hadn't thought of that and couldn't understand why the fuel didn't just 'drop' back into the tank from the top.

Sorry, what do you mean 'bed'? I've looked under my Ex and it has a metal cover protecting the tank, is that what you mean?
he thought you had a truck, not an ex. you will have to drop your tank from underneith . lets us know how it works out for you.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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Here is how I did mine. Steel line, brass compression fittings. Not ideal, butt better than it was. So far so good.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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I put two milk crates under the tank of my F350 and shimmed them up with wood slabs, until the wood slabs touched the tank. I lowered the tank just an inch or so onto the wood, and then removed the wood shims and finally removed one milk crate. This method allows you to progressively lower the tank until you're sure you have all the hoses disconnected and that the tank is free to drop. I did this alone and with the bed on, so it's a bit more awkward that way.

Beforehand, I used an electric pump and sucked all the fuel out first into 5 gal jugs. The empty tank was no problem to move and manhandle.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tappit01
he thought you had a truck, not an ex. you will have to drop your tank from underneith . lets us know how it works out for you.
haha, I didn't know if it was best to post in the 7.3 or the Excursion setcion - ah 'bed' makes sense now

Will let you know how it goes - just got to find somewhere here that sells the tube - all I can find so far is the rubber/injection type stuff!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt's Dad
haha, I didn't know if it was best to post in the 7.3 or the Excursion setcion - ah 'bed' makes sense now

Will let you know how it goes - just got to find somewhere here that sells the tube - all I can find so far is the rubber/injection type stuff!
I have short-term memory loss, but can't remember what its from... Between reading yer post and replying I forgot ya said it was an X!

Here's how I dropped/raised the tank in my cab-chassis dually (same tank location):



I've gotta do the in-tank mods on the X soon - maybe this week, so I'll do a write-up on what we come up with for it.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 05:33 PM
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I've used my hydraulic floor jack and a piece of plywood to R&R the tank in my Excursion. A second pair of hands is really helpful with the Excursion because the fit is pretty tight, and you have to be really careful to not pinch the fill tube hoses on re-install.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 07:01 PM
  #12  
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if you have a motor cycle lift. that might be easier for those ex tanks.

just thinking before i start drinking
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 04:30 AM
  #13  
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Thanks for the help guys - I understand the fuel system a bit more now!

I was thinking of using a transmission jack under the tank while the truck is on a lift or over the pit in the workshop (luckily I can use a workshop evenings and weekends)

Just got to find somewhere here selling the tube now.............
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 05:26 AM
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Effective, easiest to find and cheapest way to go is:
1) Steel brake lines, (cut to fit by you)
2) Compression fittings
(Can be found ot most parts stores)
3) SS clamps
4) 30R7 (or better that is rated for pressure)
5) Eliminate the foot.
6) Do use a filter similar to the wix 33972 near the pump
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 07:16 AM
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I used the hillbilly method: I added a length of tubing (about 2 feet) to the end of the hose in there and directed the tubing aft when I inserted the pickup assembly. My memory is fuzzy on this, but I secured the hose in a way to prevent it from touching moving parts.
 
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