Clutch Pack Replacement
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Clutch Pack Replacement
Just had this replaced to cure the chatter and binding - sure hope it works. I thought I could still detect it there this morning.... 107,700 miles on my 2004 EB.
Got differeing opinions on whether I should leave it in 2WD or AWD. Does that make any difference from a wear stanpoint?
Got differeing opinions on whether I should leave it in 2WD or AWD. Does that make any difference from a wear stanpoint?
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From: Southern Cal
Just had this replaced to cure the chatter and binding - sure hope it works. I thought I could still detect it there this morning.... 107,700 miles on my 2004 EB.
Got differeing opinions on whether I should leave it in 2WD or AWD. Does that make any difference from a wear stanpoint?
Got differeing opinions on whether I should leave it in 2WD or AWD. Does that make any difference from a wear stanpoint?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Just had this replaced to cure the chatter and binding - sure hope it works. I thought I could still detect it there this morning.... 107,700 miles on my 2004 EB.
Got differeing opinions on whether I should leave it in 2WD or AWD. Does that make any difference from a wear stanpoint?
Got differeing opinions on whether I should leave it in 2WD or AWD. Does that make any difference from a wear stanpoint?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
It should be alright in any selector position. You probably just need to add another dose of "Friction Modifier" to the gear oil. A traction locker can be dangerous in snow or icey conditions if it stays locked or wants to lock too early. It needs to be somewhat predictable.
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ok that makes sense - i appreciate the help. had not thought of it that way. the service garage actually called me a while ago and asked it if was working ok. I said i noticed it still binding a bit. he explained that when they installed the clutch pack they do so w/ a small amount of lube on the parts then once installed they do the refill. might take a bit to work in the lube - no idea if he is pulling my leg. they said they used synthetic lube. also don't tow for first 500 miles. thanks again for the info.
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When a new assembly is installed in a car or truck we had to drive it for about a half hour. Making tight circles or turns, both left and right in order to be certain the gear oil was into the clutch pack and all was working properly.
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I have only changed the plugs, all lubricants regularly as well as air filters and basic maintenance. I have always kept it at least 1/3 full of fuel and never have "burnt" out the fuel pump.
The best deal was the forever warranty from Kragen on brake pads. I have gone through about six sets for the price of one. Warranty no longer available. They can't believe it when I came back with receipts and all for another set.
I also wax and/or detail it regularly. A clean car is a happy car is for real.
Also, I did have to have the rear air shocks replaced a couple of years ago and replace the rubber fuel filler hose as it fell apart but that's it.
The old saying... take care of your buggy and they'll take care of you.
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Ok, so had the clutch pack replaced. Not sure they drove it around much, but I am noticing it is still making that chatter sound a bit on right turns. Will the lube make its way into the clutch over time? Sound like from what some folks are saying that is something of an issue - i.e., doing figure 8s, etc., to wokr it in. I have probably only gone 50 miles or so since the work was completed.
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
The clutch pack is usually installed dry or with a light oil and should be driven as described earlier to insure proper lubrication for nearly seamless operation. There might still be the occaisional snap or clunk in the dif. when turning either direction.
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