Gas Gauge Problems
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
Gas Gauge Problems
I just recently picked up a 87 F250, and I'm having some issues with the gas gauge.
While driving down the road, the needle jumps around rapidly everywhere from empty to way past full. This happens with both tanks. I thought it might be the plug on the back of the gauge (Because it's the same between tanks), but the plug is clean and securely on the terminal. Any ideas of what could be causing this?
Thanks
Jameson
While driving down the road, the needle jumps around rapidly everywhere from empty to way past full. This happens with both tanks. I thought it might be the plug on the back of the gauge (Because it's the same between tanks), but the plug is clean and securely on the terminal. Any ideas of what could be causing this?
Thanks
Jameson
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 177
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From: Grants Pass, OR
I just recently picked up a 87 F250, and I'm having some issues with the gas gauge.
While driving down the road, the needle jumps around rapidly everywhere from empty to way past full. This happens with both tanks. I thought it might be the plug on the back of the gauge (Because it's the same between tanks), but the plug is clean and securely on the terminal. Any ideas of what could be causing this?
Thanks
Jameson
While driving down the road, the needle jumps around rapidly everywhere from empty to way past full. This happens with both tanks. I thought it might be the plug on the back of the gauge (Because it's the same between tanks), but the plug is clean and securely on the terminal. Any ideas of what could be causing this?
Thanks
Jameson
Are the temp and oil pressure gauges working and steady?
5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2011
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Ford used a slosh module in those years. Its a large computer chip looking piece on the back of the gauge cluster. Its job is to keep the needle from moving around during normal driving. Im not sure if your 87 truck has one but mine went bad on my 87 mustang.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 177
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From: Grants Pass, OR
The systems are vastly different depending on year, engine etc.
80's could have solenoid valve OR dual function reservoir (non electric) OR motorized electric valve. 90's + have no external selector and use check valves internal to the tank pumps.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,339
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From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
Imfo should be in both garage and sig. 87 f250 6.9 idi dual tanks.
Engine temp gauge doesn't read at all, but the rest work fine.
Jameson
Engine temp gauge doesn't read at all, but the rest work fine.
Jameson
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From: Renton, WA
Hutch17 this is Jamesons' thread your truck has a very different system then his.
Jameson you should have the selector mounted on the inside of the driver frame rail about even with the front of the front tank. And yes it's a pain, you will be cursing Ford for not mounting it just a few inches further forward.
Sence your issue is with both tanks and they both do exactly the same thing your issue is very unlikely to be senders. Both senders go to this selector and are switched at the selector at the same time the tanks switch. I'd start by unplugging it and cleaning/checking the contacts. I'd be willing to bet that will do a lot of good. The location of that selector often cakes it with mud and road grime.
When your tanks get lower, take note on if the high point of the needle swings. You say it swings back and forth, but when you are full it does swing from full to empty but if you have say half a tank swing from half to empty? This is what mine would do.
Jameson you should have the selector mounted on the inside of the driver frame rail about even with the front of the front tank. And yes it's a pain, you will be cursing Ford for not mounting it just a few inches further forward.
Sence your issue is with both tanks and they both do exactly the same thing your issue is very unlikely to be senders. Both senders go to this selector and are switched at the selector at the same time the tanks switch. I'd start by unplugging it and cleaning/checking the contacts. I'd be willing to bet that will do a lot of good. The location of that selector often cakes it with mud and road grime.
When your tanks get lower, take note on if the high point of the needle swings. You say it swings back and forth, but when you are full it does swing from full to empty but if you have say half a tank swing from half to empty? This is what mine would do.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Grants Pass, OR
These 3 gauges - Fuel, Temp, and Oil Pressure are all powered by the Instrument Voltage Regulator on the instrument cluster. If all 3 gauges don't work at the same time, then the IVR or it's wiring is suspect.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Lost In a Pit of Despair
I pulled the plug off the switch (dang it's in a bad location...) and the terminals were in good shape, but I cleaned them anyway. The rear tank started reading at 1/4 tank, which I believed to be accurate. When I put 10 gallons of fuel in the rear yesterday, it started reading as full (up from 1/8 tank; did some driving). I can't imagine the tank is only 12-14 gallons...
The front tank is still reading funky. When I'm not moving, it reads waay past full, and when I'm driving, it moves between 3/4 and empty
Jameson
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Joined: Aug 2011
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thts probably right for the rear tank. the gauge only reads about 14-15 gal of the 18 gal capacity. but my front tank is doing exactly what your picture showed. it went from flutuacting all the time to stuck past full. had several ppl tellin me to trace the wires down becuz the touching somewhere cutting the sending unit out of the circut and reading full tank 24/7. gonna look into it as soon as a get some garage space or it warms up. 15 degrees out now burrr
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little dutch
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Dec 14, 2012 01:53 PM