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First post. Great forum you guys have here. Anyone know a thing or two about proper signal wireing? I bought an old farm truck that is about 95% all original to fix up and discovered someone had cut all the wires going into the steering column. No horn and no directional signals. Had to get the wireing diagram for this old girl and attempt to fix all that. I am by no means an expert on wireing, so i installed the old signal stat switch and carefully wired everything up. The old switch is still there but needs to be replaced. Bypassed all that and just ran new wires to my new switch that i mounted on the steering column. The problem i have is, power is bleeding over to the other side when i turn on either the left or right directional. Not that way up front cuz dont need brake lights, only on the rear. Am i missing something here? Cant seem to figure this little problem out. Brake swith is old but works great.
I would purchase an OEM switch, around $30. The toughest part of the job is fishing the wiring through the column. There should be a connector under the dash that fed the turn signal switch, and the wires have a metal end with a tab that clicks into the connector holding them in place. Push on the tab and pull out the wires one at a time, as you feed in the wires from the switch. I had trouble identifying my old wires, even with the wiring diagram, because after nearly fifty years the wire colors had faded. Start fresh and follow the wiring diagram. Good luck.
Yeah, they're all over E-Bay for cheap. Wires had been cut at the base of the steering column and everything under the dash looks like a rats nest. I located all the wires going into the switch and are all color coded correct, but switch don't work. The signal stat does a good job and keeps the law happy. I even have 4-ways, but have to run auxillary lights for my signals. Taillights and brake lights work good on the regular housings, just cant use my signals on them. At least not with the signal stat. But you are prolly right about an OEM switch, i just hate giving up my cool looking signal stat.
If you go this route, don't purchase a cheap aftermarket switch. The OEM switch is available and is superior to a foreign built one. It is common for the contacts to wear out, as well as the self-cancelling feature.
Thirty bucks compared with a hundred and thirty bucks, you pay for what you get. In the long run it would be well worth it. Thanks Kurt.
...................Ron