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My choke doesn't work, this little black box is hooked up to it but it seems that its not connected up correctly to anything. Cut wires, one to ground, one to harness and one to the
Is this something for the electric choke? I thought all you had to do on the chokes is have power to the coil inside?
It looks like a something can screw into the lower back side of the choke. I had a mustang that had a bit of copper tubing going from the exhaust to it. I don't have the tube on the truck. Think that will be a problem with the choke?
Well that's a first for me seeing an electric choke on an Autolite 2100/2150. 'A kit/retrofit?
I recall FTE'ers discussing if there is an unused plug on the firewall that has two wires (one of 'em is white with a black trace) it can be used for an electric choke.
EDIT: 'found this post :
Holley sells the cap #45-258 then you run a ground wire to a screw on the choke housing, then run power wire to the alternator stator terminal marked "S" at 12 o'clock-ish position on back of alternator. (made my own wires and connectors) The stator is only hot when alternator is running. Perfect!
My 2150 has a factory electric choke that runs off the alternator stator. Some of the factory carburetors had a 12v solenoid on them that would cut off fuel when the key was turned to off. Many use this connection to power aftermarket electric 12v chokes like on the Edelbrock 1406.
Some of the factory carburetors had a 12v solenoid on them that would cut off fuel when the key was turned to off.
Minor correction: the solenoid you're thinking of is actually the idle stop solenoid. It maintains the idle speed while the key is in RUN, but retracts to let the throttle plates close once the engine is shut off. It's to prevent dieseling in later-model smog motors. It does not touch the fuel system.
Originally Posted by JoeKramer
I cant remember, use S or I off of the main relay?
Never connect any load to either terminal of the starter solenoid. The 'S' post is the hot-in-START trigger signal to the solenoid. Connecting anything to the 'I' terminal of the starter solenoid can overheat the ballast resistor and lower the voltage at the coil.
Minor correction: the solenoid you're thinking of is actually the idle stop solenoid. It maintains the idle speed while the key is in RUN, but retracts to let the throttle plates close once the engine is shut off. It's to prevent dieseling in later-model smog motors. It does not touch the fuel system.
Noted, I knew it was something like that. The slot in the fuse box says "ENGINE SOLENOID".
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