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my truck i think has a 4180 holley carb. the PO changed it to manual choke and i would like to put it back to auto. what parts would be needed to do that. i believe the truck came from california but am not sure if that changes anything. thanks
here are some pics. if you need more let me know of what.
not sure if this one is important or not
i believe this tag came off the carb. you can see where it broke off from around the choke.
The Ford choke element is a special beast and only takes 6-9V instead of the regular 12V so you need to find a genuine Ford element (+/- $100 at the dealer, ouch!) or find a source of 12V only in run and add a ground to the conventional Holley electric choke element.
Post a photo of your ALT, if it is a G2 ALT you will use the stator wire to power the choke. The plug with the 2 large wires will also have a smaller wire that is the stator output wire to feed the choke. It will have power output only when the engine is running.
I think I am correct in saying that if he purchases a regular Holley 45-258 choke element he will need to find a source of 12V to power it.
And since these have two tabs, he will need to attach a ground as well.
Ford elements in a 4180 use the exciter current from the alternator. (+/- 7.5V) and no external ground. (you can see the choke wire wrapped around a plug wire in his second photo)
This way if the vehicle is left to warn up and it stalls, the choke doesn't burn up because of the lack of air moving over it through the internal vacuum port. And the choke stops opening up once the alternator stops turning.
Sorry if I was not clear on this,
A 1985 should have a 2G alternator, but who knows what's gone on in the past 25 years.
Link to choke thermostat (I looked it up for my truck, check to make sure your 85 is the same)
I think this won't work for him since it is your cookies directing you to the product.
Can you post the part number or take a screenshot and post that?
Edit: Just saw Bumblebee's post. He would have needed that list# to get the correct part from Holley.
It looks like a real cobbled together choke conversion.
Replace the element inserting it so the pin on the actuating arm fits into the loop on the end of the coiled spring, attach with the metal collar loosely.
Reset the choke by turning the cap to where it almost closes the butterfly at the top of the choke horn, with the engine cold, and then tighten the three screws to fix it in place.