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Hi,
I'm going to pull the engine out of my 1993 F350, with a 460.
I still need to get a hoist and a stand, both will be 2 ton capacity.
The truck is 4X4 and I'm wondering if I need to pull the tires and set it down to make room for lifting. Looks to me like it sits pretty high, maybe too high for the hoist to lift the engine out of the bay. It does not have a body or suspension lift.
Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. I've only done this once before on a '72 Bronco.
Best thing, measure it up. See how high the motor will need to be over the core support, including lifting chains. Likely, most standard hoists will not get that high. Remove tires and set spindles on blocks? or frame on jack stands. I would be very sure to make it stable, as you don't want it falling off jack stands as you jerk that motor around.
How are you going to lift it? Chains? I would stay away from a carb style plate(hooked to intake after removing TB). That's ALOT of weight and I've seen those plates bend up holding a big block.
I will be using chains and the factory provided lifting hooks. Measuring first is the way to go.
If just letting the air out is enough then that would be ideal.
I also bought a stand. My advice, since you are measuring anyway, is to get a stand that has an extra wide bracket to bolt into the block. The bell housing bolt holes on the block are pretty wide. I can measure when I get home. My new stand barely fits.
Oh, and the front wheels of the stand need to fit inside the legs of the hoist. What a pain that was! My front wheels on my stand were too wide. I thought a wide base on the stand would be good but if when the wheels didn't fit and you have this super heavy block on the hoist, it's a chore to get the stand lined up with the hoist.
Oh, and the front wheels of the stand need to fit inside the legs of the hoist. What a pain that was! My front wheels on my stand were too wide. I thought a wide base on the stand would be good but if when the wheels didn't fit and you have this super heavy block on the hoist, it's a chore to get the stand lined up with the hoist.
Actually, this was my first time. My engine had only one of the brackets that you hook onto to pull it (behind the alt) and I tried that without the leveler. That was a mistake. Then when I pulled it, I didn't realize how to lock the hoist to keep it from rolling (it was rented) so pulling it was quite the adventure. I had to lower it back down, install the leveler, lock the hoist and pull it up.
Actually, this was my first time. My engine had only one of the brackets that you hook onto to pull it (behind the alt) and I tried that without the leveler. That was a mistake. Then when I pulled it, I didn't realize how to lock the hoist to keep it from rolling (it was rented) so pulling it was quite the adventure. I had to lower it back down, install the leveler, lock the hoist and pull it up.
Of course I only took a photo of the success!
I'm sure there will be issues just like that when I try it too. You got it done and that's what counts.
I was wondering why you pulled the accessories and the valve covers first.
I just spent 2 hours messing around with hoses and the accessories. Then said the heck with it and now I'm gonn'a pull the motor. I was only going to rebuild the heads, but now I'll at least put in a new oil pump and oil pan gasket and rear main seal. Oil pan is leaking and there ain't no way I could see to get that off with out at least lifting the motor.
You may be able to pull the core support without removing the bumper or gravel guard. No need to remove the hood. I pulled motor and transmission from my 83 f150 2wd that way.
I was wondering why you pulled the accessories and the valve covers first.
Mainly because I was taking my time in documenting everything "as is" in the engine and waiting to rent the hoist until the last moment. It's not a daily driver so I just pulled a little each week.
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