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I will do the other checks first and try and get that dialed in. I wont be able to get to it till sunday so i'll post up then on how it runs. But I did notice that on the left top right in the middle of the carb there is another port, looks to be 3/8 that is just open. What could this be for? Its the same size as the fuel port but the fuel port is behind it. I will take a pic tomorrow and post it so you know what im talking about.
Ignition timing does not affect the actual ratio of air to fuel that is presented to the combustion chamber; this is solely the job of the carburetor. The only reason ported vs. manifold vacuum and timing got brought up was with regard to where to plug in a vacuum gauge to set the mixture. It's still possible to have a strong vacuum signal in the presence of a rich condition. Also note that the vacuum gauge is only used to tune the mixture at idle. Off idle, at cruise and under acceleration use different metering circuits.
I agree with you about timing not affecting air to fuel ratio and I understand and agree 100% with the rest of your statement. But the closer to TDC the ignition fires there is more of a chance that not all the fuel will get burned as well as the timing being BTDC, that and I hope you agree with me that too much timing BTDC will create a lean condition that will burn a whole in a piston. So finding the sweet spot is important. What I guess I need to find out is what total timing should be for a '76 460 and then work backwards. Also part of my problem is I don't drive it enough. It spends 90% of the time idling.
I had this same problem with my boat. 355ci Mercruiser/SBC . I tried a few different carbs, different coils, different timing setting and it still would run rich at low rpms and once you got it off idle curcuit it ran nice and clean. Alot of no wake zones. Then I went to a MSD system with multi spark at lower rpms just for marine. 10*BTDC and total timing of 31*BTDC and runs nice and clean. Oh and I'm running a Edelbrock AFB with spacer plate and intake.
I agree with you about timing not affecting air to fuel ratio and I understand and agree 100% with the rest of your statement. But the closer to TDC the ignition fires there is more of a chance that not all the fuel will get burned as well as the timing being BTDC, that and I hope you agree with me that too much timing BTDC will create a lean condition that will burn a whole in a piston. So finding the sweet spot is important.
Agreed, that's a good point. Timing would not affect the mix going in, but it does affect how much unburnt fuel is left in the cylinder after combustion, and leftover fuel in effect appears as a rich condition. Timing too far advanced makes the combustion chamber too hot, which in effect appears as a lean condition.
The idle screws will only adjust the mixture at idle. Once you're on the way the primary jets/rods control the mix. By changing rods/jets you can lean or richen the mixture.
Ok, I was wrong on how my distributor was hooked to the carb. Distributor is hooked to the upper 1/4" port and the lower one is capped. So today I went ahead and made sure my timing was at 6° BTDC and screwed the idle mixture screws all the way in and backed them off 1 1/2 turns. Took the cap off the lower port and hooked my vacuum gauge to it. Started the engine and turned each mixture screw 1 turn at a time till they were all the way out. RPMS came up a bunch but the vacuum gauge stayed at zero unless I reved it up then the vacuum gauge came up.
So now does that indicate I have a vacuum leak somewhere? All the hoses are new. I just had the intake off last week to replace the seals that go between the heads and intake. Sealed everything up good and torqued everything down. I didn't pull the heads. Could it mean my valve seals are bad? Carburetor was just rebuilt in august and has all new parts. BTW, the engine is a 390 if that helps any.
Can I drive it with the mixture screws only 11/2 turns out or should I back them out a little bit more to be on the safe side so I dont burn a hole in the piston?
As long as it idles it's fine. If you haven't changed any jets you won't burn a piston. If your vac guage only moves with the throttle then that is the wrong port. I tuned my truck using the rpm drop method. Starting at 1 1/2 turns then adjust IN until the rpms start dropping. Once that happens, back the screw out about 1/4 turn. Then do the other one. Kinda trial and error. Running rich is still a function of the jets/rods NOT the idle screws.
How about a pic of that carb? You want the vac advance on the higher port on the left front. The lower port on the right is full vac.
Ok, here are 2 pics. The first one I took the cap off on the right lower port, the one im suppose to use for checking manifold vacuum. The second pic shows the vacuum gauge hooked up and from that port I read zero at idle unless I move the throttle.
RPMS came up a bunch but the vacuum gauge stayed at zero unless I reved it up then the vacuum gauge came up.
This sounds like it was hooked to ported vacuum.
Originally Posted by robbragiel
So now does that indicate I have a vacuum leak somewhere?
Nothing you've described would make me think you have a vacuum leak.
Originally Posted by robbragiel
Can I drive it with the mixture screws only 11/2 turns out or should I back them out a little bit more to be on the safe side so I dont burn a hole in the piston?
Nothing about the mixture screws will make you burn a hole in a piston. Worst case it will just idle poorly. Burning a hole in a piston usually doesn't happen unless the engine is under a load, as it would be during acceleration. At that point, the idle mixture screws don't have any effect.
Originally Posted by robbragiel
Ok, here are 2 pics. The first one I took the cap off on the right lower port, the one im suppose to use for checking manifold vacuum. The second pic shows the vacuum gauge hooked up and from that port I read zero at idle unless I move the throttle.
That sure is strange. You've got it hooked up correctly, for sure. I thought the AFBs are the exact same as the Edelbrocks, but maybe there are some slight differences. You can find another manifold vacuum source elsewhere on the engine if there is a 1/4-inch tap on the manifold, or a free spot on the vacuum tree that feeds the power brakes.
Do you get vac just as the throttle is opened? Wonder if the throttle plate is closed beyond the port opening. I'd cap it and tap off the T in the manifold. On the choke, is there a 1/4" tube comming off the bottom? If so where does it go? Should go to a heat stove on the exhaust manifold. If not you can run a hose from there to the hose I see comming of the top, back left of the carb. The Carters use vac thru the choke to draw heated air off the exhaust to heat the choke(also have an elec coil) The idea is the air comes thru the aircleaner via that port in the back, to the heat stove then to the choke. That way it's filtered. This addd air should already be figured into the propper mix.
On Edit, looks like that hose is connected like it should be.
Do you get vac just as the throttle is opened? Wonder if the throttle plate is closed beyond the port opening. I'd cap it and tap off the T in the manifold. On the choke, is there a 1/4" tube comming off the bottom? If so where does it go? Should go to a heat stove on the exhaust manifold. If not you can run a hose from there to the hose I see comming of the top, back left of the carb. The Carters use vac thru the choke to draw heated air off the exhaust to heat the choke(also have an elec coil) The idea is the air comes thru the aircleaner via that port in the back, to the heat stove then to the choke. That way it's filtered. This addd air should already be figured into the propper mix.
Yes I get vacuum right when I move the throttle it starts to go up. I also switched the lines on the distributor port and where the manifold vacuum port is and hooked the vacuum gauge up to where the distributor was hooked and I got 2 in HG on the gauge, and as soon as I barely moved the throttle the gauge started to rise. So I bumped the idle up a little and the gauge was reading 15 in HG. So could the ports be opposite on a Carter then what a Edlebrock is? When the gauge was hooked to the lower right port, I had the RPMS screaming before the vacuum gauge would start reading anything. Yes there is a hose that comes off the bottom of the choke and plugs into the port right next to the fuel in port. Its also a 1/4" port. I just remembered there is a port on the back of the manifold that it capped where the brake booster and tranny line connects for vacuum. I can plug the gauge into one of those ports and see if I get good vacuum.