Refurbishing a 429
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Refurbishing a 429
My egnine is an oil burner, it runs great though, other than the oil it runs like a champ. so my question to all the gurus is how i should go about refurbishing my engine, im not interested in getting new rods/pistons heads all of that, im simply wanting to put all new gaskets all around, re ringing it the whole nine yards, about how much do you think a shop would charge to do this, or in turn do you think its something i could do with a little bit of knowledge about engines, over a two week period, thanks for all of the help in advance, by the way engine is 1973 429
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Do you know why it is burning oil? Have you done a compression test? What about a leakdown test?.. ya need to perform a diagnosis there doctor.
It could be as easy (a relative term) as having the heads rebuilt or re-ringing it. The latter is typically referred to as an "overhaul" rather than a rebuild.
A well planned overhaul, barring unforeseen broken bolts/studs or parts availability or block condition, could be done over a week. Depends how well the machine shop responds too.
BUT, ya never know what needs to be done until it is take apart, measured, and understood what a machine shop charges for certain work. Prices vary widely as does the quality of the work.
It could be as easy (a relative term) as having the heads rebuilt or re-ringing it. The latter is typically referred to as an "overhaul" rather than a rebuild.
A well planned overhaul, barring unforeseen broken bolts/studs or parts availability or block condition, could be done over a week. Depends how well the machine shop responds too.
BUT, ya never know what needs to be done until it is take apart, measured, and understood what a machine shop charges for certain work. Prices vary widely as does the quality of the work.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
would valve-guide seals be something that will go bad if the engine sat up for like 2-3 years?
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8,501
Likes: 4
From: Lynchburg, VA
Leak down test is a variant of the compression test. It basically tests how air-tight the combustion chamber is with the valves closed. Testers usually run in the $60 to $125 range.
Get a compression tester and see if any of the cylinders are out of spec. Your problem sounds more like valve guide seals, as the two guys above said.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 23,849
Likes: 20
From: McKenzie River
Sitting unlubricated for 2-3 years, and being put back into service can accelerate the problem.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
The umbrella seals (rubber seals that go over the valve guide bosses) can be replaced with the engine in-situ. Umbrella seals typically crumble over time due to age and heat and pulling the valve covers to have a peek will usually reveal that condition. However, it could still be the valve guides which requires removing the heads.
Call up the parts stores and ask what they charge for rebuilt heads. Then call up machine shops and ask them what it will cost to have your heads rebuilt with a valve job, new guides, and seals. They might want to replace certain valves if their out of spec (bent/worn). Btw, I'm assuming you're doing the remove & replace procedure.
Btw, here's a CarCraft article regarding the 429/460. It's a good read: Big-Block Ford 460 Engine Build - Car Craft Magazine
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
"Remove and Replace" or "R & R".... you disassemble the engine enough to remove the heads, deliver the heads to a shop, pick up the heads from the shop, and you reassemble, adjust, and fire it up. Do your research, follow a manual, and be methodical... and take many pics along the way.
About the only special tool I can think of is a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench... every tool box should have one anyway. That is one tool that is truly an investment so buy a quality torque wrench. I prefer the type that clicks upon reaching the specified torque.... I don't trust beam torque wrenches nor the newer digital/electronic versions.
Oh, add feeler gauges to your tool list but ya prolly have a set already for setting spark plug gaps.
Examples:
Beam -
Clicker -
Digital/electronic -
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Fellenz
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Nov 24, 2014 01:07 AM
Khauler
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Jan 26, 2011 07:51 PM
dbuck50
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
13
Aug 18, 2003 02:10 PM
ManglerYJ
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
19
Dec 8, 2002 06:17 AM