Have a problem with my 2000 7.3 that I am at a loss for.

Was running perfectly, no issues.

Started it up, backed down the driveway, and it started missing, rattling and cel came on (Flashing).

No power, and it died. Started once right after that, ran really badly, cel flashing? Would not start after that.

Now if I let it crank and pump throttle, it will stumble a couple times after cranking for a while but no start.
Here is what I checked.

Batteries fully charged.
Wts light works as normal.
Oil level perfect.
Fuel comes out of bowl drain under pressure when Key cycled.
Light white smoke when cranking.
New cps
No blown fuses
Wont start when plugged in.
UVCH on both sides ohm out perfect.
IDM plug and box are clean and dry
Won't start with icp unplugged. (But connector does have oil in it).

It is kicking a little when I try to start it, pumping out a little white and black smoke.

Have Snap on MT2500.

When I run KOEO and Buzz test, keep getting a variation of codes.

Right now it keeps coming up with:

p1293 High side open Bank #1 Right
p1294 High side open Bank #2 Left


I have cleared codes and run both tests several times and keep getting the same now.

ICP builds to over 2000 when cranking
ICP % builds to 39%

Help! I am out of things to try checking!

Dan

 

How long ago was it running perfectly? How long did it sit before this happened? What are the outside temps? Miles on truck? Miles on oil? Got a chip? How long does it take to build to 2000 ICP? Does it hold around 2,000 or start dropping back off?

The CEL shouldn't be flashing. It should be either on or off. Have you monitored voltage while cranking to make sure there's not a loose cable or something? Checked the tin nut on the back of the IPR to make sure it's snug?

 

Up until a month ago when this happened, it has been running perfectly. Used 2-3 times per week. It sat maybe a day after running great when it happened.

Outside temps between 40-60 degrees

Truck has 250k

About 1500 miles on oil change.

Has a dp tuner chip. I have since removed it.

ICP builds to over 2k in maybe 4-5 seconds, Duty cycle climbs to around 35%

ICP seems to climb steadily past 2000 and holds as long as I let it crank.

Cranking voltage is around 11 volts. Trying to keep battery charged to keep it above 10.5.

Check engine light only came on and flashed when it started running rough. The worse it ran the more it seemed to flash. CEL is not on when cranking.

Its taken about a month to get all the stuff for the snap on scanner. I cant rule out a bad connection. I got these codes the first couple of times I ran KOEO and buzz test.

Got following codes.
p0273 Cyl 5 inj circuit low
p1271 Cyl 1 (A) High side to low side open
p1277 Cyl 7 (C) High side to low side open
p1275 cyl 5 (f) " " " " " \
p1293 High side open Bank #1 Right
p1294 High side open Bank #2 Left

Clearing and re-running, now all I seem to get is 1293 and 1294.

Checked the IPR and all looked fine.

Thought it could be UVCH (Left side) but all injectors oms at 1.0 or less.

Truck will not start on WD40 or (i know!) a little bit of Ether.

 

When you buzz test, do you hear the injectors buzz? Tried swapping the IDM relay in the fuse panel? Checked fuses? Know anyone close by with a 95 - 03 truck where you could borrow an IDM for test purposes?

 

All the fuses are good.

Buzz test all injectors make noise, most of them are a light buzzing, two are more of a rattle (when they all fire at beginning its a rattle also)

Haven't swapped the Idm relay, will go try that.now.

No Idm to borrow! I may have to breakdown and get one from autocomputer exchange, seems to have a decent rep.

 

Swapping relays makes no difference.

Cleared codes.and ran koeo and buzz again, cyls 1,3,7 make more of a rattle all others make a clean sounding light buzz. Not sure which is right.

Codes this time are p1275 cyl5 open high to low side, p1293 high to low bank 1 left.

 

Check the connection to the passenger-side VC. If that is solid, this has all the classic symptoms of a loose UVCH. Look into 50-cent mod.

Here is the wiring harness with the 50-cent mod that goes under the VC, and a new harness I bought to replace the old one.

 

What if you clear the codes, unplug the passenger side connector at the valve cover, and then try to start? Yes it will buck and shake something fierce, but does it start easier other than that?

 

Someone said try banging on Idm while cranking, tried banging, no effect.

Checked all wires going over drivers valve cover, no apparent.issues.

Cleared codes, unplugged passenger valve cover har, truck won't even stumble, or kick just spins and spins.

Plugged in passenger, unplugged driver, and no change from when BOTH are plugged in. Stumbles, and kicks, tries to.fire, but not quite. Kind of funny, as all the.injector codes (high to low errors) were on passenger side.

Now I guess ill pull drivers VC on next day off (not until next wed) and go.from there.

 

Ok, now I'm confused.

I didn't have time to pull VC's but was still working on it. Disconnected passenger side VC and with block warmed up, it does the same thing as when driver side is disconnected. both sides try stumbling and kicking like trying to fire when the other is disconnected.

With one side disconnected, I ran another buzz test, and all 8 injectors buzzed. I dont get how there could be a buzz on the side where the VC connector is disconnected?

If both VC connectors are disconnected, there are no buzzes, but if one side (either side) is plugged in there are 9 distinct buzzes.

 

While doing the individual injector solenoid buzz the IDM buzzes all the injectors at the same time but to a lesser degree for those not under test. What you are hearing is either all the even or all the odd (depending on which side is disconnected) being buzzed twice. This can be proven by feeling the connected or disconnected solenoids as the buzz test runs.

Repeated buzz tersts are not real healthy for the injectors (no oil pressure to lube ithe poppet valves) so keep it to a minimum.

 

Called in sick today (I really am..... Sick of working on the truck and not getting anywhere!).

Pulled both valve covers and did the 50 cent mod. Both connectors inside the covers were pulled out maybe a 1/8 inch. Re-torqued rockers and injectors while I was in there.


Put all back together....... and nothing. Still the same no-start as before. Block heater plugged in with fully charged batteries, cranks and stumbles if I pump throttle. Doesnt come close to starting, just stumbles. Pumps smoke out tailpipe as it is stumbling.


Same as before, just getting p1275 Cyl 5 high to low, p1293 and p1294.

Would it still pump smoke out pipe if IDM were bad? Smoke smells like diesel.



I think that is my last ditch effort.

 

The IDM has 8 discrete circuits. One for each injector. It might be firing some but not enough of the injectors to start. If it is only a small amont of smoke if might only be firing a couple of injectors.

EDIT:

IDM Info:

 

Its actually quite a bit. If I let it crank for 15 seconds or so, the whole back of the truck is covered in white smoke.

strong diesel smell.

 

I can only think of one other thing to check.. After removing the DP chip did you get the bolt tight on the PCM connector?