Stick Swap Strategy?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
OT
reason i ask, is because when re-torquing mine down, a yr and half or so ago, 1 bolt, at 10lbs-ish seemed to then lose its "grip" and turn ever so easy. So, i removed it and re-set it again to 10lbs. Have yet to remove covers to verify anything unusual, but with the latest in TUGs' findings, i think the d/s vc is coming off SOON.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
When doing wheel bearings on my old ranger one manual called or over torquing a little bit then backing off and torquing to spec. This was the only way to get the bearings to last over a year. Compressing the bearing, then getting the proper torque. Then the bearing could decompress a little when driving.
Could be same principle. Definitely would not want to overdo the torque though.
Could be same principle. Definitely would not want to overdo the torque though.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 1
From: AL, Reform
the may reson for torque values is to keep from striping the hole or braking the bolt and take some of the elasticity out of the bolt so it does not give as much. this is not the same as torquing head bolts that go to there yield, this stretches them to the point to where they can not stretch any more and they have there most tinsel values.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
^ That is correct. There are also other reasons for certain torque values in certain situations like a pinion crush washer.
I don't think it would be the end of the world if an injector bolt hole strips out. Lots or towels and magnets, drill, tap, keensert, clean up.
I don't think it would be the end of the world if an injector bolt hole strips out. Lots or towels and magnets, drill, tap, keensert, clean up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,293
Likes: 10
From: Parker, CO
My injector install process:
- Install o-rings if not already on the injector
- Coat liberally in fresh oil
- Let that sit for 30 minutes or so
- Use this time to drink beer
- Check for debris in head
- Pop injector in
- Put a wooden block on the top of the injector
- Tap with rubber mallet until seated
- Torque to specs
- Drink beer
- Repeat for remaining injectors
Optional: use a level across all 4 injectors before bolting them down to make sure all are seated exactly the same.
Either everything will work just fine, or you'll be too drunk to care.
Pro tip: I found that using a wooden block helps me feel when the injector seats, rather than just using a mallet directly on the injector.
- Install o-rings if not already on the injector
- Coat liberally in fresh oil
- Let that sit for 30 minutes or so
- Use this time to drink beer
- Check for debris in head
- Pop injector in
- Put a wooden block on the top of the injector
- Tap with rubber mallet until seated
- Torque to specs
- Drink beer
- Repeat for remaining injectors
Optional: use a level across all 4 injectors before bolting them down to make sure all are seated exactly the same.
Either everything will work just fine, or you'll be too drunk to care.
Pro tip: I found that using a wooden block helps me feel when the injector seats, rather than just using a mallet directly on the injector.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Wow... the info is-a-flowin'! Good job, everybody!
I use a dead-blow on the injectors with light strikes. I watch the injector inch down and I can hear the pitch of the strikes change when the injector seats. When done with all four on a side, I compare their heights with a straight edge before torquing. This is what I came up with last weekend. I've watched/assisted before, but I never installed them myself before then.
I use a dead-blow on the injectors with light strikes. I watch the injector inch down and I can hear the pitch of the strikes change when the injector seats. When done with all four on a side, I compare their heights with a straight edge before torquing. This is what I came up with last weekend. I've watched/assisted before, but I never installed them myself before then.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 52
From: Sacramento Delta, CA
Just to round out the discussion, for those of us with vans, which don't have access to the top of the injectors to seat them by pushing or malleting, the OTC (OTC6067) Ford Injector Remover/Installer Kit, below, seemed to work great to seat the injectors:
[Note: The above bolts thread into a valve cover bolt hole. The flat plate with the short bolt is the injector installer. Screw the bolt down and it seats the injector. After the injector is seated, remove the tool and then insert and torque down the injector hold down bolt. The long bolt with the rectangular box (which acts as a lever) is the injector remover tool.]
[Note: The above bolts thread into a valve cover bolt hole. The flat plate with the short bolt is the injector installer. Screw the bolt down and it seats the injector. After the injector is seated, remove the tool and then insert and torque down the injector hold down bolt. The long bolt with the rectangular box (which acts as a lever) is the injector remover tool.]
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
You can also push down in the collar where the hold down bolt goes in. It acts as a lever and works very well. I have done it with a rubber mallet and the lever and both work well. However with the lever you can actually feel it "snap" in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
There was a note about lubricating the threads which I presume is important.
There also was a note about how overtightening the bolt could damage the injector. I am not sure how that would happen since they seem fairly robust....if someone came after me wielding one of those things, I would run.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
And I hear many people just cranking them down with a wrench without problems. I think come spring I am going to retorque all my injectors to 120 warm. I would rather tempt to tight than not tight enough.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,168
Likes: 10
From: San Ramon Ca.
The document is referring to the fact that the torque value is going to change when the engine is warm or closer to operating temperature. The head is going to expand a bit so the torque value will be lower. This isn't a problem just a value to go by when troubleshooting.
I imagine the spec for the hold down was calculated as cold and oil lubricated.
We are talking inch pounds so unless your inch wrench is calibrated often there is going to be slop in it. Actual vs indicated torque.
Over torquing the bolts isn't a good practice IMHO. Stick with the recommended values and conditions. If your having an issue replace the bolts with new.
I imagine the spec for the hold down was calculated as cold and oil lubricated.
We are talking inch pounds so unless your inch wrench is calibrated often there is going to be slop in it. Actual vs indicated torque.
Over torquing the bolts isn't a good practice IMHO. Stick with the recommended values and conditions. If your having an issue replace the bolts with new.
Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I'll clarify the meaning of the document:
If you have less than 50 in/lb on an injector bolt when you pop the VC in search of an "issue", get that injector the hell out of there and start over with new O-rings and copper washer. That is precisely what I found (no real torque on bolt) and damaged O-rings and copper washer. I hope I don't have damage, but I never hydrolocked. Now we have an official "meter" for when to pull an injector if we suspect a hole: Set the wrench to 50 in/lbs and try to torque. If the bolt spins, order the injector kit from Clay and just do it. It's extra work, but that injector will not magically improve without it.
This document was a real find. I'll try to rep after I submit this post... but that spread thing may interfere.
If you have less than 50 in/lb on an injector bolt when you pop the VC in search of an "issue", get that injector the hell out of there and start over with new O-rings and copper washer. That is precisely what I found (no real torque on bolt) and damaged O-rings and copper washer. I hope I don't have damage, but I never hydrolocked. Now we have an official "meter" for when to pull an injector if we suspect a hole: Set the wrench to 50 in/lbs and try to torque. If the bolt spins, order the injector kit from Clay and just do it. It's extra work, but that injector will not magically improve without it.
This document was a real find. I'll try to rep after I submit this post... but that spread thing may interfere.