Engine not getting to Running temp?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Insulating the lines going to the rear heat would help.
I still think blocking at least some of the air flow thru the radiator would help a lot. I usually use a piece of corrugated that will cover the whole radiator core area. Then just cut out a small hole right in the center to still allow some air flow. I've never had a problem doing this here and you are in an area that gets much colder.
I still think blocking at least some of the air flow thru the radiator would help a lot. I usually use a piece of corrugated that will cover the whole radiator core area. Then just cut out a small hole right in the center to still allow some air flow. I've never had a problem doing this here and you are in an area that gets much colder.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2012
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Insulating the lines going to the rear heat would help.
I still think blocking at least some of the air flow thru the radiator would help a lot. I usually use a piece of corrugated that will cover the whole radiator core area. Then just cut out a small hole right in the center to still allow some air flow. I've never had a problem doing this here and you are in an area that gets much colder.
I still think blocking at least some of the air flow thru the radiator would help a lot. I usually use a piece of corrugated that will cover the whole radiator core area. Then just cut out a small hole right in the center to still allow some air flow. I've never had a problem doing this here and you are in an area that gets much colder.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,298
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
Ok, I didn't know that.
I didn't see you mention that ( I probably missed it ) .
I don't know what else to suggest other then going to a higher temp thermostat. And that might not be an option for you until spring.
It might be time to consider some kind of auxiliary heater to get you through the winter.
I didn't see you mention that ( I probably missed it ) . I don't know what else to suggest other then going to a higher temp thermostat. And that might not be an option for you until spring.
It might be time to consider some kind of auxiliary heater to get you through the winter.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Lakefield Ontario
This frost bitten Canadian Boy can relate for 2 months of the year. My 97 Starcraft 5.4 with rear heat A/C (Proair) takes a bit to get heat going, always has, but will always kicked it out.
On the really cold days of -30 to -40C the van sounds like death warmed over with a cold start.
I would make sure you have a 200 degree+ thermostat installed and that the heater core is flushed clean. You seem to have everything else covered. Remember that when the thermostat opens the outside air will cool down the coolant really fast. You have an over cooling issue!
On the really cold days of -30 to -40C the van sounds like death warmed over with a cold start.
I would make sure you have a 200 degree+ thermostat installed and that the heater core is flushed clean. You seem to have everything else covered. Remember that when the thermostat opens the outside air will cool down the coolant really fast. You have an over cooling issue!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Lakefield Ontario
We just had our first real cold snap and I remembered that I need to keep the heat dial at 7/8 and not full hot. For some reason it does not put out alot of heat at full hot, at 7/8 it just pumps it out.
As for the rear lines I would bet they are frozen solid. They are fully exposed to the weather and the valve under the driivers seat is most likely frozen solid too. I dont think insulating will help, a heat tracer might have to be wrapped around the pipes then insulated.
As for the rear lines I would bet they are frozen solid. They are fully exposed to the weather and the valve under the driivers seat is most likely frozen solid too. I dont think insulating will help, a heat tracer might have to be wrapped around the pipes then insulated.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
From: NY, NY
I agree, another cap and thermostat should not take long to replace. These vans are known for overcooling.
Rear lines act like another radiator, so yes, insulating them would be necessary up there. Heat-tracing -- hmmm. I am not sure if there is any benefit over anti-freeze.
About the gauge -- although it is heavily compensated for sudden small swings, it is still fairly accurate.
Rear lines act like another radiator, so yes, insulating them would be necessary up there. Heat-tracing -- hmmm. I am not sure if there is any benefit over anti-freeze.
About the gauge -- although it is heavily compensated for sudden small swings, it is still fairly accurate.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Lakefield Ontario
I should have elaborated more on the heat Tace. It is for when the van is shut off and will keep the rear heat lines harm to prevent freezing. I am sure a block/battery heater is used when shut down.
At -40 bad things happen to fluids. I started my E up at -45c after sitting for 2 days with out being plugged in and I thought the engine was coming apart. It calmed down after a min but it sure was tense.
At -40 bad things happen to fluids. I started my E up at -45c after sitting for 2 days with out being plugged in and I thought the engine was coming apart. It calmed down after a min but it sure was tense.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
From: NY, NY
I think the issue is cooling while engine's running. In one instance, when I actually cut off the rear loop, engine was still running too cool. Rear lines made it somewhat worse.
Yet, the issue with OP seems to be the cap, or thermostat. And burping should help.
Yet, the issue with OP seems to be the cap, or thermostat. And burping should help.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
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From: western washington
newbi i am...blend door... is my opinion...in cold thermostat will be closed most of the time the only circulation woud be thru heater cores and block... two mini rads with out thermostats...reduce fan speed... engine should get warmer...insolating is good idea... good luck..
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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A little late to this party but my '98 Club wagon, 4.6 with rear heat runs exactly where BucknAKs runs in his picture. I've only had this 3+ weeks and 1000 miles so far and the temps have ranged from 20° to 65°. It does seem to take a while to reach that though, even with the block heater (I think it's factory installed?) running 3-4 hours and 5 minutes idling it takes 3-4 miles driving to just touch the begining mark of the 'normal' range. But once it's there, there is plenty of heat front and rear.
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