i am new here and did some searches and couldn't really find anything to help me.

1. I have a 1997 E-150/conversion (Osage), 4.6L V8 with a Proair unit in the rear, I live in North Pole, Alaska and temps are running in the -30's and colder, so i can't flush the system myself until spring.

2. My problem is that i don't think the engine is heating up to normal Operating temps allowing for proper circulating. I have replaced radaitor (old one cracked), water pump, Thermostat, and front heater core. The rear heat is working only after its parked in the garage over night. If the van is outside at work the rear will not put out any hot air (like the coolant freezes in the rear lines, going to insulate the lines next weekend). I also put a piece of carboard in front of radiator and engine temp not affected. Engine temp will not get any hotter even during the summer.

3. Coolant has been mixed 50/50 and even all the way to a 60/40 mix, no change. I usually mix all my coolant up here to a -60 and have no problems summer or winter in my other vehicles.

3. Temp gauge is in the normal range, but seems a bit on the low end.

4. Tempetures out of the vents is warm but not as warm as it should be. (basing that on other vehicles i am driving).

5. Heres a picture of the temp guage, it will not get any hotter than this reguardless of how long or how hard i drive it. I was driving about 65 at the time of the picture. Temp will drop a small bit at idle.



Now my questions to you all is

Q: Will a faulty water pump or lower hose cause a engine not getting to operating temps because of improper circulation or with the exposed heater hoses/lines to the rear unit causing the engine to run cooler than normal.

Please help, i don't want to keep throwing money into this.

 

No clue but check the fan clutch.

 

IMHO, based on your "picture of the temp gauge" your "Engine" IS "getting to Running temp". Especially in cold AK conditions. That's what the gauge needle about halfway thru the bracket between C & H means.

Note: the temp range within the center bracket is fairly small, meaning the gauge is sensitive to minor changes in temp. Guess the low end of bracket ~160 & top end ~200, suggesting ~180 Running, which is really not bad for temp range of "-30's and colder".

If the rest of the dual HVAC system is good, 180 should provide plenty of interior heat. However, you still might want to check what temp thermostat you installed & consider a higher than stock temp thermostat b/c of your extreme conditions. With nearly centered temp gauge I wouldn't suspect fan clutch, especially since you "put cardboard in front of radiator". Also wouldn't suspect "faulty water pump". Don't care how cold it is in AK, when an engine has "improper circulation" the fire within will boil water.

Your comment "Tempetures out of the vents is warm but not as warm as it should be" suggests that interior heat is your issue? I'd confirm the dual HVAC system is OK. An immersible 0-220F SS refrigeration thermometer is indispensable. You can stick it in vent to read heater temp & into antifreeze to read coolant temp.

1. Be certain AC compressor isn't running. It can run in every control position except Panel, Floor & Off, if its frost cut out failed.
2. Check out the possible clogging of rear heater lines by freezing coolant. Test the antifreeze. Since advent of 50/50 premix antifreeze there's been more mix ups. The concentration of antifreeze should not affect temp gauge.
3. Confirm blower is moving enough air. These fans are known for resistor coil failure & losing speed from binding bearings. Also the AC evaporator can cause restriction from accumulated debris.
4. There's also issues w/the vacuum motor HVAC control doors. Actuators that open & close flaps for heat, AC & fresh outside air distribution & mixing. Broken doors & cracked vacuum hoses can admit cold outside air, diluting hot air.

 

Depending on outdoor temps, E-Series will have a hard time maintaining heat. When it gets to ~10F, I cover up part of my grill to keep the engine bay warmer.

 

BucknAK mentioned "North Pole, AK....-30's and colder". However hasn't really clarified if his issue is "Engine not getting to Running temp?" OR interior heat.

You seem to be criticizing Econoline's formidable, high capacity, dual, front/rear heater output, even in the Lower 48? Based on pic of temp gauge do you agree it's normal "Running temp"? Needle is actually higher than my '98 4.6L ran today in FL at 75F.

In subarctic conditions BucknAK could probably remove the fan for Winter. A normal viscous fan clutch still spins the fan considerably. It's designed to declutch at speed to save energy, when forward motion provides airflow thru radiator. In slow stop/go the clutch & big fan moves lots of air.

BucknAK could benefit from electric fan conversion.

 

And a Webasto auxiliary cabin heater.

Sixto
'93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

 

Yes, those electronically controlled, alarm clock, Webasto gasoline auxiliary heaters are sweet & occasionally life saving in frigid climates. Full tank of gas can heat for days.

Friend in Sweden always has them installed in his Volvo wagons. Connected to motor & heats antifreeze too. Set timer in dash & car is sitting there, all warmed up, a few beads of steaming water on top in morning, no matter how cold & nasty the Winter weather overnite. Told new one has remote control, so he can hit button 10 minutes before needing to go out.

Looked at buying a Webasto heater, but it was more than my van cost. Considered bringing a good used one back from Sweden. When I finally got Club Wagon w/high cap front/rear heat, no longer wanted it. Previous Club Wagon front only heat/AC was conserved by addition of a curtain behind front seat.

 

hey Clubwagon please don't take this the wrong way i do appriciate you advice and some of it is good and i am going to use it but this is not the first winter that this van has spent up here, and if you never experience -30 to -50 temps before you have no clue on how vehicles act.

I have driven many different vehicles types and brands in these temps and the tempeture out the blower motors are all ways enough to warm up the interior no matter how cold it is, may take a bite longer but warm enough that you dont have to wear gloves, hat and coat.

Thermostat that i put in is a 195 degree, i have another one that i bought last year but never put in and forgot about, might try that.

last winter and the winters before just the front heater vents would heat up the entire van, and temp gauge would ride higher than it is now. It seems that after i changed the radiator and water pump my problems begain, the old radatior cracked on the top, but was still pressurizing untill it would spray out of the crack and it still would warm up the van.

Shortly after i bought the van i had to replace the blower motor, due to it stop working complety, wire inside to motor broke. Blend door was broken when i bought it PO thought it was the door actuator and gave me a new one used it instead of the old one.

I didnt mention it in first post but system isn't pressurizing and neither the top or bottom hoses are getting warm ice cold after driving 15 miles and 30 min warmup. I am going to go and get a new cap this weekend and see if Oriellys has a pressure tester i can borrow, but i don't think there is anything wrong with the cap.

I can't flush out hose until this spring, unless i pay a shop to do it, one of those things you have to live with up in AK eveything outside freezes for 5-6 months.

Like i said before i am going to insulate the rear heater hoses and going to pull the blend door panel again to make sure its sealing properly.

 

one thing i would do is plug in an OBD2 code scanner that can monitor various readings, and use it to watch engine temps. it'll give you a very precise reading, unlike the gage which is all guesswork. give it a good drive with that plugged in and see what you get. then try it again with cardboard over the radiator and see what you get with that.

most cooling system problems in milder climates are either a thermostat stuck open, or an engine overheating, but i guess there in the extreme cold you have a different set of issues

here in WA, my van came with only a front heater, and i added a 30000BTU aftermarket unit behind the drivers seat, it'll cook me out of there!

 

Sorry, haven't experienced temps down "to -50" even in Sweden in January. I must have "no clue how vehicles act" please disregard & carry on. No need to bore you w/another possibility that came to mind.

 

If it's not pressurizing then your problem is most likely a bad radiator cap. If it was a waterpump or lower hose you'd be running hot not cool.

And not getting up to temp is usually a thermostat stuck open. Even if it's new. I put a new one in my dad's caravan a couple years ago and the stupid thing stuck open after driving it 20 miles!!

But I would start by replacing the radiator cap with a new Motorcraft or Stant one. If that doesn't fix the problem then I would replace the thermostat and install a new Motorcraft one. If you can't do that until spring then cover up the radiator with some card board between the radiator and the grille. I do this on some of my vehicles here in Minnesota to get more heat.

 

This doesn't sound very smart but if you can't replace the thermostat, partially clamp the upper radiator hose and keep one eye on the temp gauge at all times.

Sixto
'93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

 

tabijan, is there any benefit to blocking water flow to the radiator vs blocking air flow over it - other than having to warm up a few less gallons of water?
blocking off airflow has been a common solution to underheating problems, though a proper fix is obviously preferred

 

I don't know if there's a notable difference between blocking airflow through the radiator and blocking coolant flow to the radiator. It seems BucknAK isn't getting enough effect from blocking airflow through the radiator so I suggested a further stopgap.

I'm happy when my Diesel starts at +30*F. I'd be more concerned about blood flow than coolant flow below that

Sixto
'93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

 

OK all, an update to what I did today..

1. Its -40 today...brrrrrr.
2. Its been in a 70 degree garage
3. Drove it to town (25 miles)
4. Bought a code reader with real time data, innova 3130b at Oriellys auto parts.
5. Bought a non-contact infrared thermometer, marked down to 49.99 from 75.00
6. Bought a digital thermo, kind you stick into things.
7. Engine temp reading on code reader never got above 175-185, I have a 195 thermo in vehicle, and checked temp while driving and when I got home (60 mile round trip)
8. Rear vents would put out about 104 degree heat and front sets at about 98 with fan on second highest setting
9 with blower motor running full temps at vent would drop to about 86 degrees
10. Bought a new rear heater control valve, still need to install

Conclusion---i think I need to look at blend door for proper sealing and insulate the rear heater hoses and have rear heater core cleaned out and get all the air out of the system. Change the thermostat and check the new on for proper operation.

Don't want to work on anything at current outside temps...brrrrrr